Please help me find a good oil for my application

A cat back system cut the fuel dilution on my 2014 Escape so much that the used oil didn’t smell like gasoline.
It was a west coast car so 15W40 worked year round.
In addition, I put 80w140 in the diffs and HD ATF in the transfer case and transmission.
 
Mobil 1 0w40 Carrie’s the A40 approval.
I’d like to run this oil. But the only thing that has me concerned is that a thinner oil keeps the engine cooler from my understanding. And also the thinner oil reaches harder to reach areas better than a thicker oil. My car calls for a 5w30 weight oil. Mobil 1 0w40 is a thin 40 weight however.
The cooling thing is a red herring and isn’t a problem. And the “harder to reach areas” is a complete nothing burger and means zero. Is your oil pump pumping?

Film thickness keeps parts separated and that’s what you want. And oxidation and deposit resistance is key.
 
The only way to answer your question is by knowing how you drive it. Do you run the poor little thing at redline and try to set new 0-100 records constantly?

Spirited to you might be 'holy chit - slow down you animal' for me. I drive my F150 fast, often running at 85-90 - but I don't romp on it to get there. I pass people running 5 over on 2 lane highways frequently, sometimes I pick off 3 in a row. That often requires me to stomp the snot out of it and it kicks down pretty far. That's not spirited, but some folks might think it is.
As someone mentioned above, you are a grade over and that's probably more than enough. PUP is good stuff. It might start out a little on the low end of 5-30's and it might shear a little, but it's still going to be more like a 5-25 - which is still a little over grade.

Buy the majick oil or buy the regular top shelf oil - all are excellent. Change it every 5k if you are really more like an animal on the pedal, or at 7k if you really aren't dogging the slop out of it.
 
The cooling thing is a red herring and isn’t a problem. And the “harder to reach areas” is a complete nothing burger and means zero. Is your oil pump pumping?

Film thickness keeps parts separated and that’s what you want. And oxidation and deposit resistance is key.

Sounds like Mobil 1 0w40 would work well then.
Or maybe I can find PUP 0w40 locally.
 
The only way to answer your question is by knowing how you drive it. Do you run the poor little thing at redline and try to set new 0-100 records constantly?

Spirited to you might be 'holy chit - slow down you animal' for me. I drive my F150 fast, often running at 85-90 - but I don't romp on it to get there. I pass people running 5 over on 2 lane highways frequently, sometimes I pick off 3 in a row. That often requires me to stomp the snot out of it and it kicks down pretty far. That's not spirited, but some folks might think it is.
As someone mentioned above, you are a grade over and that's probably more than enough. PUP is good stuff. It might start out a little on the low end of 5-30's and it might shear a little, but it's still going to be more like a 5-25 - which is still a little over grade.

Buy the majick oil or buy the regular top shelf oil - all are excellent. Change it every 5k if you are really more like an animal on the pedal, or at 7k if you really aren't dogging the slop out of it.

The regular focus calls for the 5w20.
I have the focus ST with the ecoboost that specs 5w30.

The PUP is fairly thin but it’s supposed to hold up pretty well to heat and extreme conditions that turbochargers produce.

And I’m only going 3k miles between oil changes. So I might be fine sticking with the 5w30 PUP. But the Mobil 1 0w40 is a pretty thin 40w so I’ve been thinking about maybe switching from the PUP to the Mobil 1. Or try to find the PUP in 0w40. But the availability of the PUP in my area is limited, I don’t recall seeing the 0w40 last time I went to get oil.
 
Worrying about brand is pretty irrelevant here. It’s the proven performance of the approval that matters.
If that’s the only thing that matters than any API SP oil should do the job then I suppose.

As far as ford specs, my manual is outdated as they stopped making the car in 2018. But the latest 5w30 spec for ford should be WSS-M2C961-A1 based on my research.
PUP does not meet this spec. Castrol does however. Maybe I should go with castrol edge
 
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If that’s the only thing that matters than any API SP oil should do the job then I suppose.

As far as ford specs, my manual is outdated as they stopped making the car in 2018. But the latest 5w30 spec for ford should be WSS-M2C961-A1 based on my research.
PUP does not meet this spec. Castrol does however. Maybe I should go with castrol edge
As has been mentioned, the Porsche A40 certification is extremely stringent, and based on actual performance rather than merely having minimum levels of certain additives like most North American certs specify for their approvals.

That’s why multiple people have mentioned specifically Mobil 1 FS 0w40. It not only carries API SP, but a handful of much more impressive European certifications. By many yardsticks, it’s nearly a universal oil for anything except engines that burn oil.
 
If that’s the only thing that matters than any API SP oil should do the job then I suppose.

As far as ford specs, my manual is outdated as they stopped making the car in 2018. But the latest 5w30 spec for ford should be WSS-M2C961-A1 based on my research.
PUP does not meet this spec. Castrol does however. Maybe I should go with castrol edge
Porsche A40 approval is not the same as an API license.

Post some pictures, we love pictures.
 
Quaker State Ultimate Protection 5W30.

Always like the Focus ST. Test drove one in 2013 but ended up with my regular Focus for my long commute at that time. Your mods and use don't require anything special w/r to the oil.

My son's buddy has one of these with some mods and autocrosses it.
 
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I have two turbocharged GDI engines and run whatever cheap 5w30 I can find (for now, valvoline, because 5$ coupon per 5qt puts it at about 20$). More than enough. Change every 4k miles. Why waste 40$+ on oil if youre just gonna drain it too fast.
 
Porsche A40 approval is not the same as an API license.

Post some pictures, we love pictures.
I’m off work today. I’ll post some pictures for you guys later.

I understand it’s not the same as api SP.
but does the porchse A40 approval address LSPI and timing chain wear?

I noticed more euro oils have the API SP rating.
Looks like Mobil 1 0w40 has API SP and the Porsche A40 approval.

So if looking for an oil based on its performance should I just forget about the ford spec oils and assume that anything API SP rated that also has more stringent euro specs as well such as A40 would be my best bet?
 
I’m off work today. I’ll post some pictures for you guys later.

I understand it’s not the same as api SP.
but does the porchse A40 approval address LSPI and timing chain wear?

I noticed more euro oils have the API SP rating.
Looks like Mobil 1 0w40 has API SP and the Porsche A40 approval.

So if looking for an oil based on its performance should I just forget about the ford spec oils and assume that anything API SP rated that also has more stringent euro specs as well such as A40 would be my best bet?
Any Euro xW30 or 40 oil with the common VW/BMW/Porsche/MB approvals will work just fine in this car...if they are good enough for the tuned-to-the-moon VW/Audis they are good enough for this Ford.
 
Quaker State Ultimate Protection 5W30.

Always like the Focus ST. Test drove one in 2013 but ended up with my regular Focus for my long commute at that time. Your mods and use don't require anything special w/r to the oil.

My son's buddy has one of these with some mods and autocrosses it.

Yeah if I had a bigger turbo and raced the car I would definitely go to a heavier weight oil.

The only reason I was looking at a 40 weight was cause some of the euro spec 40 weight oils look like very good oils compared to 5w30.

So I’m not real concerned with 5w30 vs 0w40 or 5w40. I just want to find the best oil I can get, that will protect from LSPI and timing chain wear.

I’ve been happy with PUP. However it might be too low of a viscosity for my application. But with my short OCI, it probably won’t matter.

So to summarize, what do you guys think. Should I stick with PUP 5w30 or go with a euro spec oil like Mobil 1 0w40?
 
So I’m not real concerned with 5w30 vs 0w40 or 5w40. I just want to find the best oil I can get, that will protect from LSPI and timing chain wear.
There just happens to be a board sponsor that can give you what you need, bar none.

It’s just not inexpensive when you say you want the best; ~$70 for an oil change once the 15% discount is applied. Considering you have a choice between d1G3 or Euro-level chemistries with the same great protection, to me the choice is clear.

Just brush up on some of the @High Performance Lubricants threads on the board, and you’ll find what you need. 👍🏻
 
So I’m not real concerned with 5w30 vs 0w40 or 5w40. I just want to find the best oil I can get, that will protect from LSPI and timing chain wear.

I’ve been happy with PUP. However it might be too low of a viscosity for my application. But with my short OCI, it probably won’t matter.

So to summarize, what do you guys think. Should I stick with PUP 5w30 or go with a euro spec oil like Mobil 1 0w40?
Any Euro xW30 or 40 oil with the common VW/BMW/Porsche/MB approvals will work just fine in this car...if they are good enough for the tuned-to-the-moon VW/Audis they are good enough for this Ford.
 
Yeah if I had a bigger turbo and raced the car I would definitely go to a heavier weight oil.

The only reason I was looking at a 40 weight was cause some of the euro spec 40 weight oils look like very good oils compared to 5w30.

So I’m not real concerned with 5w30 vs 0w40 or 5w40. I just want to find the best oil I can get, that will protect from LSPI and timing chain wear.

I’ve been happy with PUP. However it might be too low of a viscosity for my application. But with my short OCI, it probably won’t matter.

So to summarize, what do you guys think. Should I stick with PUP 5w30 or go with a euro spec oil like Mobil 1 0w40?
LSPI isn't a thing with this engine, it's more of an issue with v. small displacement engines. Besides, you have a manual so just don't lug it and problem solved.
 
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