Please correct me if I am wrong, but.. 20wt Turbo?

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: JRed
Originally Posted By: Zacharyx

Many of the 4.6 Mustangs running around with aftermarket turbos on stock or stock speced ( bearing clearance) engines still use 5w20 and are not having issues with the turbos.


They don't expect their engines/turbos to last any great deal of time, either.


Which is why I run Mobil 1 0W-40 in my now supercharged Marauder that was originally specked for 5W-20...

 

[volk06]

Originally Posted By: donnyj08
makes me wonder what grade of oil was used during the eco-boost torture test

They said 5w30 Motorcraft synblend.

 

[BrianWC]

I used Mobil 1 5W20 in my high miles SAAB 900 turbo for a change or two. It was about a year after I'd bought my CR-V and it was the first time I'd found any 20 weight Mobil 1. So I figured I'd use it in both...

Don't know what that means, but I did put another 100k miles on the car after that and before totaling it...

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
It all depends on what the engine including the turbocharger were designed to run. The big diesel turbochargers I've ran used an ISO64 turbine oil, about equal to a 20 wt engine oil. Of course, this is what they were designed for.

The viscosity of the oil at the temperature in operation is one very big factor. The size and design of the bearings, as well as the load on the bearings, are other big factors. Mobil Jet Oil II is 5.1 cSt @ 100°C, about like a light 20 wt. Works fine in the huge turbines on your nearest 747 or 787.


5.1 cSt @ 100C even falls below 20-weight, which goes from 5.6 to 9.3 cSt. But turbine oils are beside the point. Gas turbines universally use rolling-element shaft bearings, so they don't need high viscosity lube to form a hydrodynamic film. And turbine oils are not subjected to products of combustion as they are in recips. Turbine oils are also predominantly ester-based, so they can definitely handle the heat.

 

[mechtech2]

I would not recommend a x-20 in a turbo vehicle.
You'd need a note first from your Doctor, Lawyer, and your Mother.
[and maybe Molakule!]

 

[demarpaint]

I look at it this way, if Ford felt it was good for the application they'd have continued specing 20 grade oil. The fact that they changed it going forward to a 30 grade oil tells me one thing, the 20 grade wasn't up to par. If it was they'd still spec it.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I look at it this way, if Ford felt it was good for the application they'd have continued specing 20 grade oil. The fact that they changed it going forward to a 30 grade oil tells me one thing, the 20 grade wasn't up to par. If it was they'd still spec it.

I take the opposite view point.
If a light 20wt oil was once spec'd for the engine (and still is AFAIK for the 2010 MY) then for typical non extreme use the 20wt oil was more than up to the job. I might choose to use a higher quality synthetic oil like Mobil 1 0W-20 vs the semi-syn spec 5W-20 but that would be it.
Of course being the oil nerd that I am I would have an oil pressure/temperature gauge installed so that the minimum factory spec's OP is always maintained but that's just me.

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I would not recommend a x-20 in a turbo vehicle.
You'd need a note first from your Doctor, Lawyer, and your Mother.
[and maybe Molakule!]


...and perhaps sign an agreement that if you see oil temperature over 180F, you'll immediately back out of the the throttle to let the oil cool.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I look at it this way, if Ford felt it was good for the application they'd have continued specing 20 grade oil. The fact that they changed it going forward to a 30 grade oil tells me one thing, the 20 grade wasn't up to par. If it was they'd still spec it.

I take the opposite view point.
If a light 20wt oil was once spec'd for the engine (and still is AFAIK for the 2010 MY) then for typical non extreme use the 20wt oil was more than up to the job. I might choose to use a higher quality synthetic oil like Mobil 1 0W-20 vs the semi-syn spec 5W-20 but that would be it.
Of course being the oil nerd that I am I would have an oil pressure/temperature gauge installed so that the minimum factory spec's OP is always maintained but that's just me.


Different opinions sadly no facts from either one of us. If Ford was confident in 20 grade oil in that application they'd still be using it. When you say it was OK for non-extreme use that scares me, Ford probably felt a 30 grade would handle both extreme and non-extreme use. My vehicles see extreme use from time to time, I'd hate to think the oil spec was based on non-extreme use only with a once in a Blue Moon extreme use for 20 grade. Lets not forget going to the 30 grade they take a CAFE hit, they wouldn't take that hit unless they had to. As far as the 2010 engines still calling for it, that's history, presently they stopped spec'ing 20 grade oil for them, and probably for a good reason.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I would not recommend a x-20 in a turbo vehicle.
You'd need a note first from your Doctor, Lawyer, and your Mother.
[and maybe Molakule!]


...and perhaps sign an agreement that if you see oil temperature over 180F, you'll immediately back out of the the throttle to let the oil cool.

As I've said before I think A_H has the best sense of humour of anyone on this site!

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Of course being the oil nerd that I am I would have an oil pressure/temperature gauge installed so that the minimum factory spec's OP is always maintained but that's just me.


That’s just it. You know what're you're doing and you're watching the OP gauge like a hawk. If needed, you will thicken up the oil.
The average person, heck probably even the average BITOG-er, simply will not do that, so an oil grade must be provided that will ensure the largest safety margin for the widest operating conditions. What I get from this grade change, for this particular engine, is that 5w20 couldn't meet the after mentioned criteria, but that doesn't mean it cannot be used.

PS.
Holy smokes! In my long winded response I realized that I agree with you

 

[CATERHAM]

Yes I know most BITOGers won't install an oil gauge but will spend more in the long run on largely useless used oil analysis which I've always found to be highly irrational but that's another story.

Actually once a gauge is installed and the novelty of it wears off, you don't need to watch it "like a hawk". You'll know how much "reserve" you still have when you push you car hard on the hottest days and inevitably it's very large on the lightest of recommended oils.
In fact I find the biggest value of an OP gauge is to know when the oil has thinned out enough so that you can drive hard without the oil pump going into by-pass which is a lot of the time even when running a high VI 0W-20 oil.

One thing most don't realize when a OEM accounts for extreme operating conditions is maintenance abuse such as the oil level being down well below the minimum level and still being able to perform adequately. One thing I am sure of even with the most thick oil biased BITOGer is than they at least keep the oil level at the proper level especially during perceived extreme use. Just doing that significantly reduces the viscosity requirements of an engine.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes I know most BITOGers won't install an oil gauge but will spend more in the long run on largely useless used oil analysis which I've always found to be highly irrational but that's another story.

Actually once a gauge is installed and the novelty of it wears off, you don't need to watch it "like a hawk". You'll know how much "reserve" you still have when you push you car hard on the hottest days and inevitably it's very large on the lightest of recommended oils.
In fact I find the biggest value of an OP gauge is to know when the oil has thinned out enough so that you can drive hard without the oil pump going into by-pass which is a lot of the time even when running a high VI 0W-20 oil.

One thing most don't realize when a OEM accounts for extreme operating conditions is maintenance abuse such as the oil level being down well below the minimum level and still being able to perform adequately. One thing I am sure of even with the most thick oil biased BITOGer is than they at least keep the oil level at the proper level especially during perceived extreme use. Just doing that significantly reduces the viscosity requirements of an engine.



I think FMC used oil pressure gauges and temperature gauges, along with other methods when they tested 5W20 in the Eco-boost engine. Then later determined, after 2010 model year that 5W30 was the better choice, and changed the recommended oil going forward. They didn't change the oil spec for no reason at all, especially with CAFE. JMO

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
They didn't change the oil spec for no reason at all, especially with CAFE. JMO


Absolutely true.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

I think FMC used oil pressure gauges and temperature gauges...... They didn't change the oil spec for no reason at all, especially with CAFE. JMO

You're missing my point entirely about oil gauges.
If you have them installed and know how to use them it is IMPOSSIBLE to knowingly run an oil that is too light.

And whoever said FMC didn't have a reason for spec'ing a 5w30 grade oil....?
What I find that's more interesting is why FMC hasn't changed the oil grade for the 2010 MY back to the 5w30 grade? Has FMC issued a service advisory that only the 5w30 grade should be used for all MYs? Again I don't think so.
On thing I would ask bdcardinal who works for a Ford dealer is if Ford still has a coolant/oil heat-exchanger on the MY 2011 and later Ecoboost engines? I do know that the NA engines aren't not so equipped.

 

[demarpaint]

I've used oil pressure gauges, in fact a pressure gauge and my pre-luber taught me quite a bit. Cold oil flows slower at temps as high as 40*F through the pre-luber pump, once again as per my pressure gauge and pre-luber. Synthetic flows faster than Dino at 40*F, and the colder it gets the slower dino flows through the pre-luber.Does it matter in an engine? Maybe?

As I said earlier, lots of speculation and opinions as to why Ford went to 30 grade oil. The fact still remains they went from 20 grade to 30 grade even with CAFE looming. Until we hear from Ford as to why all it will be is opinion. Until then there's only one fact, the fact they made the change to 30 grade. Why haven't they changed the 2010 MY? All I can offer is an opinion, which will only trigger a possible argument.