Please check my MTB new parts

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Howdy,

I have an '08 Trek 4500 bike that has been pretty much stock since I bought it new. I've had the LBS replace the crank twice (both square taper) due to failures. It's a hardtail that I ride about once a week on some local mtb trails (winter and summer). I am hoping to upgrade to 9spd components and disc brakes as my wheel walls are completely worn down from the v-brakes grinding on grit. I really love the frame fit and feel to death so I do not wish to get a new bike. Here is my parts list that I hope to order soon I am shooting for sub $500 budget. I'm good at wrenching but don't have much experience with bike parts, let me know what you think!

This is my current parts list to order:

Crankset (170mm)
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR303A00-Shimano+Lx+Fc-M582+Crankset.aspx
-or-
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR302A06-Race+Face+Evolve+Dh+Cranksets+08.aspx

Cassette 11-32T
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CS708B15-Sram+Pg+970+Cassette.aspx

Chain
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CH707B07-Shimano+Hg-93+9Sp+Chain.aspx

Rear derailleur (both rapid rise)

Deore LX long cage (upt to 45T)
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/RD604A01-Shimano+Lx+Rd-M580+Rear+Derailleur.aspx
-or-
Deore XT short cage (up to 34T)
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/RD306A01-Shimano+Deore+Xt+M770+Rear+Derailleur.aspx

Disc brakes (185mm)
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR291C01-Avid+Bb7+Mechanical+Disc+Brake+09.aspx

Wheels
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/WH297A00-Shimano+Xt+756+Wtb+Fx28+Wheelset.aspx


Already have:

My fork is still in decent shape and I just ordered some 9spd Deore LX rapidfire shifters. Also my frame and fork have disc brake mounts (haven't measured the size just yet)


Some specific questions I have are about the cranks, rear derailleur and disc brakes.

Which crank should I choose from the two I listed above?? My old square taper ones don't seem to last long, currently I weigh 185lbs. My riding is fairly aggressive on mild terrain and I definitely make use of my bashguard.

I believe I need to get the XT rear derailleur (Jenson doesn't have the Deore LX in short cage). The short cages fit from 11-34T which is okay for the SRAM cassette I picked out correct? Or do I need to get a long cage like the Deore LX I have posted?? I realize they are low normal, that's what I'm going for. I never use the largest 3rd chainring on the front if that makes a difference (I have a bashguard)

What size rotors should I get? I have selected (2) 186mm for front and rear. Should I go bigger to 203mm? Should I do a large front, small rear (160mm), or both small (160mm)? Do larger ones tend to go out of true more easily?

Thanks for any advice/tips!
 
I'd say I have a trek 4300 that's about six years old, and I also have to replace the squeaky square taper crank. It's not dead yet, but getting worse. My other bike is a Gary Fisher Tassahara with ISIS bottom bracket/crank and it's a much better crankset. It's also Deore LX (IIRC) 9 speed rear, and much much better in sound and shift responsiveness. You'll be amazed by the upgrade.

I guess I'd be pretty happy with the better components on the cheaper frame. I'm not sure you're saving that much money, though, and I do like having two bikes.

I would get the Shimano with 3 chainrings, I use all 3. I tacoed one on a log. I bent it back, rode home, then put a new one on. It wasn't that big a deal. I also don't run discs for weight savings, though I probably would do the Avid Mechanicals if I did 160 in both. I do all XC, not sure what riding you do. For the dérailleur I have the long on my trek, short on the GF, and I'll do anything to pickup less grass though I doubt it makes much difference.

Too late for the chequamegon fat tire this year, but if you tend to make bad decisions that require 4 hours of hellish nightmare maybe 2011.
 
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Yeah I can't wait to get rid of that square taper crank. I really need the disc brakes as my current v-brake setup has worn down my wheel walls past the wear line. Been a couple of occasions were the mud on the rim severally effected my stopping power. Got hurt pretty good.



I really want to get that Race Face crank, but I've never installed a crank before. I'm wondering if it will fit my frame??? Anything I should measure or is it universal fit deal?
 
Thanks for your help, doesn't look bad at all.

I'm not to familiar with the bearing construction, it appears that they are a cartridge (sealed)? So the only purpose the grease in the video serves is to prevent seizing of the threads? Would I be okay with using a silicon grease then?

Haha chequamegon sounds like my type of event! For now I'll just stick with the muddy buddy lol

Thanks again for your help thus far.
 
Oh yeah, I'm well aware of BD. Bought my gf a Grand Sprint road bike last summer. I'm really attached to the geometry of my current mtb frame though.

I ordered the parts last Friday, went with the race face crank, rear LX rapid rise deraill. XT hubs with FX28 rims, BB7 185mm and 160mm discs. and 9spd sram cassette and chain. I got a great deal on the rear deraill. My amount was $415 for everything with shipping.

Once I get the parts and hunt down the tools I'm going to make a writeup.
 
I've literally swapped every component on my Hardrock. Nothing left but the frame.

One thing about the disk brakes. Many seem to want the bare minium to save less than an ounce of weight. I went from stock 160 to BB7 185 to BB7 203F/185R to BB7 203F/R.

For me, modulation is better with the larger rotors. Weight is so close you will never know the difference. I'm 230lbs, 250lbs with gear and water so that's part of the equation.

I say carefully consider going with the large brakes from the start if your fork is rated for it, there really aren't any downsides. Overkill, yes, but I've never heard of too much brake. You an also get the speed dial 7 levers for $16 to adjust how much power and modulation you have.
 
Don't use 170 mm cranks. Go for at least 175. I run 180 on my bike, but I'm tall.

Bottom bracket is an easy install. Go for the discs as well.
 
An update:

I didn't have a working camera at the time I was putting all the parts together.

This is a list of parts I purchased:

Rock shox Tora 318 U-turn fork
Race Face DH Evolve crankset 170mm crankarms with X-type BB
Avid BB7 front 186mm rotor and rear 160mm rotor
SRAM PG-970 9 spd cassette
Shimano 9spd chain with Whiperman master link
Shimano Deore LX rear derailleur (high-normal)
SRAM X.GEN front derailleur
SRAM X.0 front twist shifter
Shimano Saint rear shifter
Jagwire ripcord cable and housing sets
Shimano XT hubs with WTB FX28 wheelsets

The build was pretty easy and was my first. I managed to break everything down and put everything together fairly easily. The whole process was pretty fun, simple and a good learning tool.

The most difficulty I had was installing the crank arms of the evolve crankset. The bolt that tightens the two halves together has to be tightened until the halves bottom out. Race Face claims that is simple due to the bolt "stopping" once they bottom. What they don't mention is that the force needed to tighten them is incredible. I had to use a 8mm allen wrench with a 4ft cheater bar to get it to bottom. The whole time I had that "[censored] what if I'm doing this wrong" thought in my head. It did bottom and the cranks turned buttery smooth without play in the end.

Everything else was easy as heck to install by just reading the instructions and of course having the right tools. However, I did notice that the hubs were packed with barely any grease (looked like run of the mill silicon grease) and the rear derailleur pulleys did not have any lube. I used silicone grease/dielectric grease on everything except bearings were I used a waterproof auto bearing grease.

I've been riding for a solid 3 weeks now with no problems to report. Overall the ride is fantastic and I believe I got everything I wanted in terms of performance, durability, (we'll see about durability) and feel.

Many people have told me to just get a new bike but I believe I'm far happier with my custom setup. If you have any questions I'll be glad to help.



NYEngineer: My old cranks were 175's can't say that I can feel much difference between the new 170's and the old.
 
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