So axr can penatrate steel now?
Plan for Buick w/ 3.8
- Thread starter Benzadmiral
- Start date
- Status
So axr can penatrate steel now?
Quote:
So axr can penatrate steel now?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but perhaps a better description would be "cling to metal surfaces".
Update: I've gone with plan B. Oil change this morning, 4.25 qts. of Chevron 5W-30, 12 oz. of Auto-Rx, 1 Wix filter. Given the way I drive here in The Swamp, the distance to and from Little Rock, and how long I'll be there, I think I'll hit 2500 miles just before Christmas. Then 3K miles will bring me to the first of April or so, and I'll be on track to avoid changing during the summer swelter. We'll see how it goes!
Drive it hard and get it hot and you'll see how it goes.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,798
Quote:
So axr can penatrate steel now?
You've never seen stained metal? You've never worked in an industrial environment with various elements in concentration. I've seen 316 stainless that would never come clean short of grinding. While many surfaces that you may be referring to are polished ..many are rather porous and will surely be "penetrated", so to speak.
Have you ever used this product?
Hope you don't mind my question.
Do you think that ARX will clean my cylinder walls, enough that I could, at least partially, better seat rings that got the typical crummy "soft" break in?
This is one thing I am hoping for, as I progress with the ARX treatment of, my Mitsubishi 3.0L with 120K on it.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,798
Probably your ring packs will see the effects of the cleaning. You're looking for a moly product for any pits/craters in the cylinder walls. moly basics
Thank you Mr. Allen. I am now studying the page you linked you.
Couple of questions.
Wait until after the first ARX rinse phase is complete to add moly?
Will moly also plate on plane bearing surfaces like rod end bearings?
Thanks again. I am learning so much here.
Couple of questions.
Wait until after the first ARX rinse phase is complete to add moly?
Will moly also plate on plane bearing surfaces like rod end bearings?
Thanks again. I am learning so much here.
Is there a good moly additive? Or do I need to search on which oils are high in moly?
I believe your Park Ave has the Series III 3800 V6, which has the aluminum intake manifold. Series I and II V6s have the plastic manifold which is prone to coolant leaking near the EGR area. Still I would keep an eye on the coolant level and have it checked if it begins to drop regularly.
The lower intake gaskets are also a problem on these engines; I had to change them out over the summer.
Otherwise great car great engine!!!
Bob
The lower intake gaskets are also a problem on these engines; I had to change them out over the summer.
Otherwise great car great engine!!!
Bob
Bob, from what everyone here has told me, mine is the Series II 3.8 engine -- GM didn't start putting the Series III in the Park Avenues until nearly the end of the run (2005), if at all. I topped off the coolant with a 50/50 mix of Dex-Cool and distilled water when I bought the car 2 months ago, and it hasn't dropped yet.
I do plan on having the coolant flushed and refilled soon, probably before my Little Rock road trip next week, and will have my regular mechanic inspect the manifold areas to see if there are any leaks (I can't see anything, and don't smell coolant, either).
I do plan on having the coolant flushed and refilled soon, probably before my Little Rock road trip next week, and will have my regular mechanic inspect the manifold areas to see if there are any leaks (I can't see anything, and don't smell coolant, either).
I doubt that ARX will do much for you. With 108K miles on the clock I ARXed my L67, nothing changed. Engine was clean to begin with, at least the lifter valley, front and read heads were. Can't tell you about the pan though. Had the valve covers off, and nothing looked the least bit dirty, just oily.
Benz,
Keep an eye on that coolant, and you will be rewarded with a great and economical engine. My dads 2000 Park Ave gets 36 MPG hwy(100000miles)
I have a 95 Bonneville with 160000 miles, both cars have had intake manifold leaking, which got fixed before any damage was done.
I get about 28-30 MPG hwy in mine.
Shaman,
Both of our engines were like yours upon teardown, a little oily, but clean..
Bob
Keep an eye on that coolant, and you will be rewarded with a great and economical engine. My dads 2000 Park Ave gets 36 MPG hwy(100000miles)
I have a 95 Bonneville with 160000 miles, both cars have had intake manifold leaking, which got fixed before any damage was done.
Shaman,
Both of our engines were like yours upon teardown, a little oily, but clean..
Bob
Yeah, I've already been impressed with the fuel mileage of the big beast. In my normal 75% city driving, over 10 days, it's come in once at 20.6 and a second time, with 32 psi in the tires, at 21.9. As I mentioned in another thread, this is within 10% of the mileage I got on my 4-cyl. Benz. And that one took premium -- 13 to 15% more expensive per gallon than the regular the Buick uses . . . so I'm very pleased.
I'm hoping to see 30-31 on the steady open road next week.
I'm hoping to see 30-31 on the steady open road next week.
Hey, all,
I've been off to Little Rock this week and haven't been near a computer. New look for the board, hey?
With the Auto-Rx in its blood, the Buick did indeed perform like a champion thoroughbred. I saw about 29 mpg on the drive out (I had to run the A/C for a bit), and almost 32 on the run back, with 35-55 degree temps, windows shut, vent air only, averaging about 65-68 mph. However, I've put only about 1200 miles on the Auto-Rx mixture since the change, so it might be late December before I swap it out for the rinse phase.
Truly a great car . . . and well worth the slight expense of changing the oil for the Auto-Rx treatment.
I've been off to Little Rock this week and haven't been near a computer. New look for the board, hey?
With the Auto-Rx in its blood, the Buick did indeed perform like a champion thoroughbred. I saw about 29 mpg on the drive out (I had to run the A/C for a bit), and almost 32 on the run back, with 35-55 degree temps, windows shut, vent air only, averaging about 65-68 mph. However, I've put only about 1200 miles on the Auto-Rx mixture since the change, so it might be late December before I swap it out for the rinse phase.
Truly a great car . . . and well worth the slight expense of changing the oil for the Auto-Rx treatment.
Update at 1900 miles into the clean phase: The oil is getting dark!
I pulled the dipstick this morning. Instead of the golden color of fresh oil, the oil now has a color like that of Coca-Cola. It's still thin, not sludgy, and it's the oil itself with the color, not the dipstick.
Of course, for all I know, this car darkens every oil by 2000 miles into an oil change. But at least something appears to be happening.
I plan to swap it out and start the rinse phase the week after Christmas.
I pulled the dipstick this morning. Instead of the golden color of fresh oil, the oil now has a color like that of Coca-Cola. It's still thin, not sludgy, and it's the oil itself with the color, not the dipstick.
Of course, for all I know, this car darkens every oil by 2000 miles into an oil change. But at least something appears to be happening.
I plan to swap it out and start the rinse phase the week after Christmas.
I just finished the rinse phase on my 01 Ranger, and switched back to Mobil 1. I've only driven about 100 miles, so I'm anxious to see what happens.
Originally Posted By: Oilgal
Quote:
You've never seen stained metal? You've never worked in an industrial environment with various elements in concentration. I've seen 316 stainless that would never come clean short of grinding. While many surfaces that you may be referring to are polished ..many are rather porous and will surely be "penetrated", so to speak.
Have you ever used this product?
Hope you don't mind my question.
Do you think that ARX will clean my cylinder walls, enough that I could, at least partially, better seat rings that got the typical crummy "soft" break in?
This is one thing I am hoping for, as I progress with the ARX treatment of, my Mitsubishi 3.0L with 120K on it.
I was just reviewing an ARX test on a Harley V-twin that had evidentally had a "soft breakin". At 10,000 miles on the clock compression readings were sub standard at 120 PSI. After a short cleaning cycle of ARX and rinse, at 12,500 on the clock, the same motor was generating 160 PSI on both cylinders. So I would say yes, ARX can dewfinitly pave the way for second chance at a proper break in. This V-twin was a youngster at 12,500 miles and your 3.0 has seen sunstantially more use since break in, but I have got to believe the ring pack cleaning will defintely help you out.
Quote:
You've never seen stained metal? You've never worked in an industrial environment with various elements in concentration. I've seen 316 stainless that would never come clean short of grinding. While many surfaces that you may be referring to are polished ..many are rather porous and will surely be "penetrated", so to speak.
Have you ever used this product?
Hope you don't mind my question.
Do you think that ARX will clean my cylinder walls, enough that I could, at least partially, better seat rings that got the typical crummy "soft" break in?
This is one thing I am hoping for, as I progress with the ARX treatment of, my Mitsubishi 3.0L with 120K on it.
I was just reviewing an ARX test on a Harley V-twin that had evidentally had a "soft breakin". At 10,000 miles on the clock compression readings were sub standard at 120 PSI. After a short cleaning cycle of ARX and rinse, at 12,500 on the clock, the same motor was generating 160 PSI on both cylinders. So I would say yes, ARX can dewfinitly pave the way for second chance at a proper break in. This V-twin was a youngster at 12,500 miles and your 3.0 has seen sunstantially more use since break in, but I have got to believe the ring pack cleaning will defintely help you out.
Hey, all,
An update: this morning at 2579 miles, I had the clean-phase oil swapped out for 4.5 qts. of Chevron 5W-30 and an ACDelco PF47 filter. Certainly something was happening in there -- the oil came out quite dark (though as the stream thinned you could see a kind of honey-colored tinge to it). The mechanic, the independent "service station" guy I used 2500 miles ago, said he thought the filter was getting a bit sludgy, and that at the next change I could bring him one of the 5-minute engine flushes (!). That suggests to me that Auto-Rx was indeed cleaning up something that was suspended in the oil, hey?
Next step: 3000 miles of rinse phase; change again about April 1. (I still haven't settled on Pennzoil Platinum, though; the idea of even ChinaMart's low price of $4/qt. for oil annoys my cheap-bugger soul. Is it possible that Chevron Supreme or Exxon Superflo can handle a 6-month, ~4500-mile OCI through the savagery of an endless Louisiana summer?
An update: this morning at 2579 miles, I had the clean-phase oil swapped out for 4.5 qts. of Chevron 5W-30 and an ACDelco PF47 filter. Certainly something was happening in there -- the oil came out quite dark (though as the stream thinned you could see a kind of honey-colored tinge to it). The mechanic, the independent "service station" guy I used 2500 miles ago, said he thought the filter was getting a bit sludgy, and that at the next change I could bring him one of the 5-minute engine flushes (!). That suggests to me that Auto-Rx was indeed cleaning up something that was suspended in the oil, hey?
Next step: 3000 miles of rinse phase; change again about April 1. (I still haven't settled on Pennzoil Platinum, though; the idea of even ChinaMart's low price of $4/qt. for oil annoys my cheap-bugger soul. Is it possible that Chevron Supreme or Exxon Superflo can handle a 6-month, ~4500-mile OCI through the savagery of an endless Louisiana summer?
- Status
Similar threads
