Picture of M1 High Mileage 5w-30 at work

[Oro_O]

I recently switched a high mileage car (2002 Lexus ES300, 228k miles) from dino to M1 HM, 5w-30. This is after the 1st 1k miles on M1HM. This is the Toyota 1MZ-FE V6 3.0/3.3L used in many, many Toyota/Lexus engine 1995-2005. I find it interesting because this is a bit dirtier than the previous Pennzoil dino oil looked at 5k miles at the last change. So my interpretation is that the M1HM is cleaning up deposits that the prior dino oils wouldn't get at. Does that sounds correct? Also, it was my intention to leave it in 7,500 miles. However, should I use a shorter OCI for the first one or two OCIs with the new synthetic oil? The engine seems to love this oil; it could be my imagination but it seems to be (even) quieter, smoother and more responsive than before - and it ran very, very nicely before.

 

[Oil Changer]

Of course it is cleaning. Leave it in for the full interval and give it time to do it's thing.

 

[camrydriver111]

1MZ-FE are great engines.

 

[tig1]

Al M1 oils do a very good job of cleaning and keeping clean engines. If this was my engine I would change the filter only at 4K and then change both filter and oil at 7500 miles. After that go with a 10K OCI. My grandson has a 2002 Camry with this engine, and has 190K on it. He uses M1 5-30 and never adds between changes. He also uses this car for pizza deliveries, so he has a lot of local driving with stops and starts.

 

[Danh]

Mobil recommends shorter intervals (3-5k) during the first couple OCIs when switching to Mobil1 HM in an engine where sludge could be an issue. Dark oil doesn't necessarily mean anything, but after 228k sludge could be lurking. I'd follow Mobil's and advice and change early for the first couple intervals.

 

[Oro_O]

Yes, I am hugely impressed with the 1MZ-FE. With the longevity of the engine, fuel efficiency, general roominess and pleasant driving characteristics, we may keep this ES a LONG time. OK, if Mobil recommends shorter changes 1st few times, I can do that. I think I read that on some forum threads I studied and why I asked this question. But I didn't look at their website and recommendations. I'll go do that.

 

[JC1]

Have you removed the valve cover to see the condition of it before you switched over? I have the same engine in my 98 Sienna. I have a bit of varnish and some tiny amounts of sludge in the corners of the valve cover. I've used various oils since 2006. Right now I'm using PP to see if that can clean it up better than the Mobil 1. On my wife's 97 civic the Mobil 1 gets dirty after 2000 km, but under the valve cover looks brand new. Regards, JC.

 

[Oro_O]

JC1 - yes, I opened the valve cover on the front (left) bank this summer when I did a timing belt change. It looked/sounded like your Sienna but no sludge visible, just varnish. Should have taken a pic at the time but didn't think of it. The 2002-2006 1MZ-FE's are supposed to have modifications to reduce sludging (I don't know exactly what, just what I have read from reputable sources). I don't suspect sludge based on what I've seen under the valve cover.

 

[simple_gifts]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3397521/1MZ-FE_Rear_Valve_Cover_Change Here is a reference photo of a '99 I'd be hesitant to do 10K OCI unless there is verification that the issue that makes the earlier models of the engine challenging for long OCI has been resolved.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: tig1

Al M1 oils do a very good job of cleaning and keeping clean engines. If this was my engine I would change the filter only at 4K and then change both filter and oil at 7500 miles. After that go with a 10K OCI. My grandson has a 2002 Camry with this engine, and has 190K on it. He uses M1 5-30 and never adds between changes. He also uses this car for pizza deliveries, so he has a lot of local driving with stops and starts.

They sure do appear to be good cleaners, my good friend and forum member Falcon_LS was taken by surprise at the amount of junk getting loosened when he checked his Montero. There are a lot of really good oils on the market. Mobil 1 and Pennzoil products are my preference for their cleaning ability but i am sure others do as good a job also.

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3397521/1MZ-FE_Rear_Valve_Cover_Change I'd be hesitant to do 10K OCI unless there is verification that the issue that makes the earlier models of the engine challenging for long OCI has been resolved.

Thanks for the link. It is somewhere between the two pictured there, varnish but no sludge. I am not looking to go 10k but 7,500 would make me happy (more from a maintenance/time issue, not cost). The 2002 and up (actually very late 2001 models too) have a PCV/valve head mod to increase flow. It is well documented but the basic cause of the reported sludge problem was consistent short trips combined with infrequent OCIs. This car has been in Texas and WA its whole life, long highway trips/miles and regular OCIs.

 

[kschachn]

I recognize that engine lol. Apparently Imageshack is declining to display the front picture at 232,000. Here it is again for reference. The difference in appearance between the front and the back bank of cylinders is striking, at least to me. When I took the picture of the back bank at 300,000 miles I replaced the existing valve cover (and PCV valve) with the updated ones. I'm not sure why at this point, but I did anyway.

Originally Posted By: Oro_O

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3397521/1MZ-FE_Rear_Valve_Cover_Change I'd be hesitant to do 10K OCI unless there is verification that the issue that makes the earlier models of the engine challenging for long OCI has been resolved.

Thanks for the link. It is somewhere between the two pictured there, varnish but no sludge. I am not looking to go 10k but 7,500 would make me happy (more from a maintenance/time issue, not cost). The 2002 and up (actually very late 2001 models too) have a PCV/valve head mod to increase flow. It is well documented but the basic cause of the reported sludge problem was consistent short trips combined with infrequent OCIs. This car has been in Texas and WA its whole life, long highway trips/miles and regular OCIs.

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: kschachn

I recognize that engine lol. Apparently Imageshack is declining to display the front picture at 232,000. Here it is again for reference.

What a difference between the two banks. I noticed you mentioned cat issues. If you are still in need, RockAuto has aftermarket cats for these for under $300, I happened to see them a few days ago when getting some filters. I don't have an issue, just happened to note it.

 

[kschachn]

It was a leaking flex pipe. But a local shop welded in a new flex pipe and I'm good to go at least for a while. The shop said the rest of the system appeared to be in good shape. But thanks anyway.

Originally Posted By: Oro_O

Originally Posted By: kschachn

I recognize that engine lol. Apparently Imageshack is declining to display the front picture at 232,000. Here it is again for reference.

What a difference between the two banks. I noticed you mentioned cat issues. If you are still in need, RockAuto has aftermarket cats for these for under $300, I happened to see them a few days ago when getting some filters. I don't have an issue, just happened to note it.

 

[285south]

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer

Of course it is cleaning. Leave it in for the full interval and give it time to do it's thing.

THIS

 

[Oro_O]

OK, thank you all for the input. I will leave it the full intended ci, 7.5k. What about changing the filter part way through as mentioned? Current filter Purolator.