Pick me a summer oil.
- Thread starter Hemi426
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Flip a coin!
Your vehicle won't know the difference.........
Your vehicle won't know the difference.........
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I also have a 4.7. Why do yo want to run a heavier oil than the rec'ed 5w30?
Hmm.. I run 5-30 and even w/ the 90 degree weather we've been havin up here my gauge reads 1/8" or so from full pressure.
Whatever works for you. I think 5w30 oils good for me.
Whatever works for you. I think 5w30 oils good for me.
I have good pressure under throttle just not at idle. The engine has always had regular oil changes so I would think the bearings are still tight. I have the cam follower tick on thin oils when I first start it. Do you have this noise? It sounds like a lifter ticking on a pushrod style engine. I have heard this is common on the 4.7 when they get some miles on them.
Agree....a good 5w30 Syn should work fine..... The trend is toward thinner oils.
Mobil 1 (5w30) is on sale at WalMart for $21 for a 5 quart jug. OR....Motorcraft Blend 5w30 is a fine oil at $12 for 5 quart jug.
Mobil 1 (5w30) is on sale at WalMart for $21 for a 5 quart jug. OR....Motorcraft Blend 5w30 is a fine oil at $12 for 5 quart jug.
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No, no ticking here. In the winter I notice pressure drops at idle, but nothing major that would trigger any idiot lights.
Warm weather, no problems.
I've heard on the older 5.2(318) and 5.9(360), guys with indicated low pressure lost their engines shortly thereafter. Usually because of sludge in the pan clogging oil pick-up. I haven't heard of this being a real problem w/ the 4.7, though.
IDK the history you have with your truck, but if you've only had it a short time w/ questionable history as far as oil changes, you might want to run a clean-up chemical through to be sure it's not gunked up. Mine had a decent maintence history I believe and maybe thats why I'm not having the same symptoms. IDK???
Warm weather, no problems.
I've heard on the older 5.2(318) and 5.9(360), guys with indicated low pressure lost their engines shortly thereafter. Usually because of sludge in the pan clogging oil pick-up. I haven't heard of this being a real problem w/ the 4.7, though.
IDK the history you have with your truck, but if you've only had it a short time w/ questionable history as far as oil changes, you might want to run a clean-up chemical through to be sure it's not gunked up. Mine had a decent maintence history I believe and maybe thats why I'm not having the same symptoms. IDK???
IDK. Don't have the same issues as you have. You know what they say, factory gauge can sometimes be very inaccurate.
Haven't looked, but are there any others here running a heavier oil? Maybe I'm missing out on something, lol?
I've found this site to be helpful:
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/
Haven't looked, but are there any others here running a heavier oil? Maybe I'm missing out on something, lol?
I've found this site to be helpful:
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/
Make sure the tick you're hearing isn't an exhaust manifold leak. I do know thats a common issue that the bolts can back off or snap which could cause a sound similar to a tick from the drivers seat under acceleration.
Originally Posted By: Hemi426
Won't the T6 have too much zinc and phosphorous for my catalytic converter even though my engine doesn't burn any oil?
Its CJ4 rated which requires reduced zinc. It also meets SM rating for Gas Engines (although 5W-40 does not require the low zinc levels of the lower viscosities).
This is a non-issue unless you have an oil burner anyway.
Have you tried any of the "Heavy" 30s like 0W30 German Castrol or Valvoline Maxlife 5W30 or 10W30? That may be all you need. The Group V Esters found in Maxlife may be particularly helpful with your issues.
Won't the T6 have too much zinc and phosphorous for my catalytic converter even though my engine doesn't burn any oil?
Its CJ4 rated which requires reduced zinc. It also meets SM rating for Gas Engines (although 5W-40 does not require the low zinc levels of the lower viscosities).
This is a non-issue unless you have an oil burner anyway.
Have you tried any of the "Heavy" 30s like 0W30 German Castrol or Valvoline Maxlife 5W30 or 10W30? That may be all you need. The Group V Esters found in Maxlife may be particularly helpful with your issues.
Have just been told by someone who should know that the 20% Group V info I was given years ago was in error.
I am obviously guilty of spreading misinformation and in penance will be sentenced to run 2 back to back 10,000 mile OCI (Or when the IOLM says) of cam destroying 5W-20 Mobil 1. Oops! Their I go again... 3 back to back runs...
I am obviously guilty of spreading misinformation and in penance will be sentenced to run 2 back to back 10,000 mile OCI (Or when the IOLM says) of cam destroying 5W-20 Mobil 1. Oops! Their I go again... 3 back to back runs...
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I would run any synthtic you can get on sale at Walmart.
I use 5w30 in my 4.7, currently has some Amsoil in it but have run mobil 1 and Penz platinum in it and it does not care.
Your tick can be the broken exh man stud or noisey injector or noisey leak detection pump.
If you have owned since new and done reasonable oil drain intervals I doubt you have much wear in the 4.7.
I use 5w30 in my 4.7, currently has some Amsoil in it but have run mobil 1 and Penz platinum in it and it does not care.
Your tick can be the broken exh man stud or noisey injector or noisey leak detection pump.
If you have owned since new and done reasonable oil drain intervals I doubt you have much wear in the 4.7.
You guys really haven't heard of any 4.7 failures? I had a customer at my old job that mentioned having to replace the 4.7 in his Dakota and after that I did some research and found tons of people had sludge related failures. Not as common as the 2.7 Intrepid engine, but it still seemed pretty far spread.
On further research, to refresh my memory I found this:
It doesn't condemn the engine, but gives some good advice on ways to prevent the 4.7 from the common sludge issue and sudden loss of oil pressure. They are also prone to crack heads if they get at all hot.
http://www.ehow.com/about_5571443_dodge-engine-problems.html
It doesn't condemn the engine, but gives some good advice on ways to prevent the 4.7 from the common sludge issue and sudden loss of oil pressure. They are also prone to crack heads if they get at all hot.
http://www.ehow.com/about_5571443_dodge-engine-problems.html
Pennzoil Platinum or Quakerstate Ultimate Durability Full Synthetic. Both available at your local WalMart for $5.87 a quart or $18.50 (QS) and $20.50 (PP) in five quarts jug.
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