Photographic evidence of HDEO / synth oil cleaning
- Thread starter OldEuroCarLover
- Start date
- Status
I've used Auto RX. 4 bottles. It did absolutely nothing.
Originally Posted By: OldEuroCarLover
I've used Auto RX. 4 bottles. It did absolutely nothing.
It has worked for me but I wasn't using it for cosmetic cleaning. It cleaned up a leaking RMS for a couple vehicles and restored compression on my old cavalier. Easily got my money's worth from it.
I've used Auto RX. 4 bottles. It did absolutely nothing.
It has worked for me but I wasn't using it for cosmetic cleaning. It cleaned up a leaking RMS for a couple vehicles and restored compression on my old cavalier. Easily got my money's worth from it.
I'm not sure why this was moved to the additive section. It's about motor oil.
Overall, it doesn't look like there is any photographic proof that HDEOs or synthetic clean dirty motors.
Overall, it doesn't look like there is any photographic proof that HDEOs or synthetic clean dirty motors.
This is not HDEO but Mobil 1 0w40. This engine had a lot of varnish and no OTC additives used whatsoever, the piston in the middle is partially blocked by the pickup tube as you can see by the tubes mounting port but the rest look like the one on the lower right.
Under the valve covers is totally clean and it had heavy varnish and deposits, this took about a year i would say before I pulled the pan. I have similar results with PU on other engines.
Under the valve covers is totally clean and it had heavy varnish and deposits, this took about a year i would say before I pulled the pan. I have similar results with PU on other engines.
What kind of intervals?
3K
No before photo? Would be good to compare.
Sure, I always spend half a day pulling oil pans, taking a picture and putting it back then doing it all over again.
Fair enough.
JK you know what I mean, its a 6 hr job to pull that one. Anyway, you can see the middle piston and the one on the lower right, that is a good comparison.
The middle one has restricted oil splash because of the pickup right in front of it. Looking through the fill hole it was badly varnished and now its as clean as the crank.
The middle one has restricted oil splash because of the pickup right in front of it. Looking through the fill hole it was badly varnished and now its as clean as the crank.
Yes, I got you. I was travelling here
It has a sensible difference between the undercrowns, for comparison.
It has a sensible difference between the undercrowns, for comparison.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Trav
JK you know what I mean, its a 6 hr job to pull that one. Anyway, you can see the middle piston and the one on the lower right, that is a good comparison.
The middle one has restricted oil splash because of the pickup right in front of it. Looking through the fill hole it was badly varnished and now its as clean as the crank.
How many OCI's did it take to get that block clean ??
I've not used M1 to clean up a block even though I know it has lots of Calcium based detergents because it's expensive in the UK, although not as expensive has Amsoil which has even more detergents. Amsoil is unobtainium at present.
JK you know what I mean, its a 6 hr job to pull that one. Anyway, you can see the middle piston and the one on the lower right, that is a good comparison.
The middle one has restricted oil splash because of the pickup right in front of it. Looking through the fill hole it was badly varnished and now its as clean as the crank.
How many OCI's did it take to get that block clean ??
I've not used M1 to clean up a block even though I know it has lots of Calcium based detergents because it's expensive in the UK, although not as expensive has Amsoil which has even more detergents. Amsoil is unobtainium at present.
I would say that's 4 or 5 OCI before I pulled the pan, I really don't remember thats a few years ago. I do so many OC on many cars its easy to loose track of it especially when its my own which tend to be the last cars to get anything done on.
The original pan was rusted badly, not through but close, that the only reason I got a look in there. Mobil claimed about 20K for the oil to do a decent cleaning which seems right from what I could see.
PU (Shell Helix Ultra) has also shown very good results in cleaning ability, Castrol, Amsoil, QS, PP, etc seem to do a good job of keeping the engine clean but not so much on removing what already there. Just my worthless observation on engines that I have serviced long term.
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why-the-...s-running-clean
Edit: Added link.
The original pan was rusted badly, not through but close, that the only reason I got a look in there. Mobil claimed about 20K for the oil to do a decent cleaning which seems right from what I could see.
PU (Shell Helix Ultra) has also shown very good results in cleaning ability, Castrol, Amsoil, QS, PP, etc seem to do a good job of keeping the engine clean but not so much on removing what already there. Just my worthless observation on engines that I have serviced long term.
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why-the-...s-running-clean
Edit: Added link.
Last edited:
Gunk and a brush for the outside, 24hrdiesel soak for the inside.
Simple
Simple
Originally Posted By: Silk
Originally Posted By: Shannow
alkaline based degreaser hacked through it like no brake cleaner was able to touch.
I have a heated dip tank I use for cleaning some parts, and use those alkaline water based cleaners in it, only stuff I've seen to remove varnish completely. You can work really hard with some stinky solvents like brake and carb cleaner, or drop it in the tank and walk away.
Boiling water and automatic washing machine detergent (for coloureds, less bleach) has long been my primary weapon of choice for carburettor cleaning. Does tend to etch the (pot-metal?) alloy surfaces a bit though.
The varnish in neglected carbs is probably partly oil-derived, via crankcase ventilation.
Lately I've supplemented the washing powder with brake fluid, (not cleaner) which is also fully miscible with water.
Final clean with acetone, which also removes the water.
I use carb cleaner, but only for soaking small components, in a glass bottle.
Of course washing powder isn't directly relevant to in-engine cleaning, though I have heard of brake fluid being used as a soak for the combustion chamber.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
alkaline based degreaser hacked through it like no brake cleaner was able to touch.
I have a heated dip tank I use for cleaning some parts, and use those alkaline water based cleaners in it, only stuff I've seen to remove varnish completely. You can work really hard with some stinky solvents like brake and carb cleaner, or drop it in the tank and walk away.
Boiling water and automatic washing machine detergent (for coloureds, less bleach) has long been my primary weapon of choice for carburettor cleaning. Does tend to etch the (pot-metal?) alloy surfaces a bit though.
The varnish in neglected carbs is probably partly oil-derived, via crankcase ventilation.
Lately I've supplemented the washing powder with brake fluid, (not cleaner) which is also fully miscible with water.
Final clean with acetone, which also removes the water.
I use carb cleaner, but only for soaking small components, in a glass bottle.
Of course washing powder isn't directly relevant to in-engine cleaning, though I have heard of brake fluid being used as a soak for the combustion chamber.
Last edited:
- Status
