Photo: under valve cover. 16 Trax 80K.

Definitely not great at all. Before I sold my wife's 2016 Trax I replaced the valve cover for the second time on it. Engine looks brand new under it at 124k miles. This was taken in May of this year. 5-6k mile changes since new with all different types of synthetic.
IMG_2662.jpeg
 
Had to replace the valve cover today. Pcv is integrated into the valve cover and intake. Waiting on the intake to fail...
Anywho here is a pic with the cover off. Got it at 25K and have been using name brand full synthetic. 90K now. Going by OLM. View attachment 181539
I did this a couple years ago to the same engine I believe (1.4)..

 
Does all that discoloration really do anything to the performance of the engine or longevity?
 
Does all that discoloration really do anything to the performance of the engine or longevity?
Only if the engine has VCT or VVT that is sensitive to varnish. If the varnish does not worsen (e.g. turn to sludge) then more often than not, it is fine. Varnish is the precursor to sludge but there are many things that have to happen before that transformation takes place.
 
Does all that discoloration really do anything to the performance of the engine or longevity?
Depends on whether it's representative of what's going on in the ring land area or not (which is an area of even higher heat and lower flow).

The problem with varnish is that it's a precipitate. Oils are blended with dispersants and detergents to both prevent agglomeration of deposit-forming contaminants and to keep them in suspension. If they are plating out, it means the additive package isn't doing its job in this department, likely due to being saturated/overwhelmed.

So, if the oil is no longer able to keep this material in suspension, and we are seeing it plate-out in areas of low flow (like the top of the heads and on other surfaces) then the same thing is going to be going on, but in a more concentrated form, in the ring land area, where flow-through is extremely low, and the conditions are more conducive to lacquer plating accruing. Once sufficient lacquer/varnish is accumulated in the rings, particularly the oil control rings, they can start to stick. This causes problems with oil control, and the byproduct is consumption. When this starts to happen with the upper compression rings, you get increased blowby, which in turn increases the volume of contaminants entering the oil, expediting the rate of degradation. This also causes loss of power. None of this is desirable, but it's natural to see some degree of it on high mileage engines run on "regular" oils.
 
found these pics just now .. pistons of my Harley at around 200k... mostly ran 15w50 Napa synthetic or 15 w 40 diesel engine oil.. ran fine, but I found some brand new take off jugs and heads on Ebay for 100 bucks so I did the top end... it's got a bit of varnish and scatches on the pistons... but it had 200,000 miles too on an air cooled engine. rings aren't stuck. cylinders were fine.
111 harley.jpg
weren't scored.
11 harley.jpg
 
Depends on whether it's representative of what's going on in the ring land area or not (which is an area of even higher heat and lower flow).

The problem with varnish is that it's a precipitate. Oils are blended with dispersants and detergents to both prevent agglomeration of deposit-forming contaminants and to keep them in suspension. If they are plating out, it means the additive package isn't doing its job in this department, likely due to being saturated/overwhelmed.

So, if the oil is no longer able to keep this material in suspension, and we are seeing it plate-out in areas of low flow (like the top of the heads and on other surfaces) then the same thing is going to be going on, but in a more concentrated form, in the ring land area, where flow-through is extremely low, and the conditions are more conducive to lacquer plating accruing. Once sufficient lacquer/varnish is accumulated in the rings, particularly the oil control rings, they can start to stick. This causes problems with oil control, and the byproduct is consumption. When this starts to happen with the upper compression rings, you get increased blowby, which in turn increases the volume of contaminants entering the oil, expediting the rate of degradation. This also causes loss of power. None of this is desirable, but it's natural to see some degree of it on high mileage engines run on "regular" oils.
i thought you could just fix this problem with bon ami, monsieur?
 
found these pics just now .. pistons of my Harley at around 200k... mostly ran 15w50 Napa synthetic or 15 w 40 diesel engine oil.. ran fine, but I found some brand new take off jugs and heads on Ebay for 100 bucks so I did the top end... it's got a bit of varnish and scatches on the pistons... but it had 200,000 miles too on an air cooled engine. rings aren't stuck. cylinders were fine.View attachment 181801 weren't scored. View attachment 181800
Oil control rings look pretty compressed, but not bad, given the varnish in the pin area. Those skirts look rough, that's some decent scuffing. Compression ring area looks clean, so oil control was still pretty good. Those are nice big oil return holes, which I'm sure helped, no Toyota or Saturn pin holes there, lol.

200,000 miles on that pair of pain shakers is impressive! I can't imagine putting 200,000 miles on a bike, I haven't even put 10,000km on my ATV, lol.
 
Do the V-Twin's operating temperature and oiling method make for a fair comparison?
Not sure, but they aren't exactly icons of high power density either, which helps make them easy on oil, like the Ford Modular engines.
 
Had to replace the valve cover today. Pcv is integrated into the valve cover and intake. Waiting on the intake to fail...
Anywho here is a pic with the cover off. Got it at 25K and have been using name brand full synthetic. 90K now. Going by OLM. View attachment 181539
If it was a carbon steel pan it would be well seasoned with polymerized oil
Depends on whether it's representative of what's going on in the ring land area or not (which is an area of even higher heat and lower flow).

The problem with varnish is that it's a precipitate. Oils are blended with dispersants and detergents to both prevent agglomeration of deposit-forming contaminants and to keep them in suspension. If they are plating out, it means the additive package isn't doing its job in this department, likely due to being saturated/overwhelmed.

So, if the oil is no longer able to keep this material in suspension, and we are seeing it plate-out in areas of low flow (like the top of the heads and on other surfaces) then the same thing is going to be going on, but in a more concentrated form, in the ring land area, where flow-through is extremely low, and the conditions are more conducive to lacquer plating accruing. Once sufficient lacquer/varnish is accumulated in the rings, particularly the oil control rings, they can start to stick. This causes problems with oil control, and the byproduct is consumption. When this starts to happen with the upper compression rings, you get increased blowby, which in turn increases the volume of contaminants entering the oil, expediting the rate of degradation. This also causes loss of power. None of this is desirable, but it's natural to see some degree of it on high mileage engines run on "regular" oils.
that was well said.
 
Regarding the varnish —- I think our crowd here - and I am one of them - would like to see pristine under a valve cover because pristine means we did a good job, right? It means we chose the right oil, the right interval, and played a role having under that valve cover look mint. It feels good, it’s why we’re here...to think, learn, decide how we can (in some way) improve/enhance/prolong our engines with the right oil choices. It’s therapeutic.

Personally my current goal is 10,000 mile intervals, and beautiful internals...simply because people say it can’t be done. I’ll probably chicken out before that happens...I’m on my 4th 10,000 interval, and some day I’d like to be at 200,000, take the valve cover off and see nothing but crispy clean valve train. In a couple years I’ll find out (or not).
 
^^All of what you said; but as we all know there's a trade off available between the energies/cost needed to monitor over high OCIs and the affordability and certainty of doing it slightly early.

The varnish being there is called harmless by some. It's just yellow staining!
Others say it doesn't have a chance of forming on bearing surfaces due to friction and physical displacement (scuffing?). However, the suggestion that it may form in zones of higher temps and reduced oil flow (ring lands etc.) is compelling.

Since I don't tear engines down routinely, I got no eye for this.

More frequent oil changes is the economical route. Good cleaning oils, which I can use to extend OCIs a bit, are an option I learned of here.
 
No offense but you wouldn't have all that varnish if it was changed every 5K, OLM be ****ed. GM put that on there so they could advertise their cars as low maintenance vehicles. My 500,000 mile Toyota engine looked cleaner.
My OLM just tracks 5K mileage. So I use the OLM *and* get 5k OCIs on my IS250.
 
Had to replace the valve cover today. Pcv is integrated into the valve cover and intake. Waiting on the intake to fail...
Anywho here is a pic with the cover off. Got it at 25K and have been using name brand full synthetic. 90K now. Going by OLM. View attachment 181539
That's very similar to what my '97 Maxima looked like after a steady diet of Redline in the early 2000s. I always figured the ester base would prevent varnish a bit better, but the VQ30 I think would varnish a little using any oil.

I'd try to find something that will clean it up a bit-- maybe shorter OCIs or maybe a different oil with more oxidative stability.
 
Oil control rings look pretty compressed, but not bad, given the varnish in the pin area. Those skirts look rough, that's some decent scuffing. Compression ring area looks clean, so oil control was still pretty good. Those are nice big oil return holes, which I'm sure helped, no Toyota or Saturn pin holes there, lol.

200,000 miles on that pair of pain shakers is impressive! I can't imagine putting 200,000 miles on a bike, I haven't even put 10,000km on my ATV, lol.

yeah, I put more than 200k on two of them.
its really simple to do. just ride it all the time.
take it across country multiple times.
but yeah, you wouldn't expect a long stroke air cooled engine to look all that nice on the inside considering what it had been thru.
1 mileage harley.jpg
 
^

Since I don't tear engines down routinely, I got no eye for this.

More frequent oil changes is the economical route. Good cleaning oils, which I can use to extend OCIs a bit, are an option I learned of here.
I think you are missing the point... that OLM is aimed at the average owner , not the BITOG set.
Average person doesn't change their transmission fluid either or change their own motor oil
so the OLM is designed to get them in there to get er done as a reminder.. aimed at the bare minimum.
 
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