4WD
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We changed the 1.4T throw away valve cover at 100k and it was pristine on M1 EP 5W30 at 5k OCI … Switched to M1 0W40 - drove to 140k and traded in …
IMO they were harder on ATF but the transmission was solid …
Photo: under valve cover. 16 Trax 80K.
- Thread starter hardcore302
- Start date
IMO they were harder on ATF but the transmission was solid …
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
It's not.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I suspect this is totally "acceptable" by both API and GM standards. Remember, the goal is not to keep the engine spotless until it rolls into the junkyard, just like the goal isn't as close to zero wear as possible, it's to maintain both of those things at an acceptable level to yield adequate performance over the anticipated lifespan of the equipment.
Despite RL containing significant % of group V, it does not have the cleaning ability many think. I think we all thought that at one time, for good reason. However, there are hundreds of different ester types and the ones RL uses don't have this ability, per RL. I asked RL this question and on both occasions, they said it does not clean but will run "clean".
Oils that are known to clean based on what I know are: Amsoil, HPL and certain grades of Mobil 1.
Had this engine been run on Mobil 1 it would have had no varnish.
Here is a response I got from Amsoil tech on this question of keeping clean vs cleaning:
"Thank you for your email. The Signature Series does have very good solvency and will help to clean deposits very well. We hope this is helpful."
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/amsoil-engine-tear-down-pics.367209/
Kreen has been the goto here for that situation. Only one of the dozens of threads on it,
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/to-kreen-or-not-to-kreen.306705/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/to-kreen-or-not-to-kreen.306705/
I'm glad I don't follow the OLM.
I'd run some Rotella T6 thru it or HPL engine cleaner.
Seems like a lot of varnish for 90k miles but I'm sure it still runs good and will continue running good for a while, peripheral parts notwithstanding (e.g. intake). Lots of people say OLM systems are good for surviving the warranty and not much else. My Tacoma 4cyl looked much better than this when changing the valve cover gasket at 165k miles -- it gets off-the-shelf full syn oil every 5-7k miles depending on the usage during the interval. My opinion of your maintenance plan depends heavily on how long you plan to keep the vehicle 
Keep on motoring...
Keep on motoring...
Varnish “insulates” parts and traps heat within it, rather than allowing the heat to be carried away as efficiently. Also, varnish that flakes off is not harmless; some will get caught in the filter, sure, but what about actuators with small holes like cam phasers & VVT units? Also, varnish is not “soft” and can lead to scoring bearings and sliding surfaces.
Those two products aren’t remotely similar, and T6 will certainly not clean varnish, because it’s not formulated to do so. That requires alkylated napthalenes and esters…
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yeah bro, use either a .177 air rifle or a 20mm cannon for pirate hunting.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
And yet that's not the worst I've seen, lol.
Probably my favourite, and most memorable, was a 305 SBC with sludge that resembled axle grease under the valve covers and each of the rockers had their own little cavity in it.
Looks gross to me.
That’s my Silverado at 240,000 kms.
That’s my Silverado at 240,000 kms.
I helped a buddy change the turbo (cracked housing causing low boost and codes) on one of those. It was like repairing a mechanical watch. Needs much patience. As for the "varnish" I'd guess 95% of the vehicles on the road look like this or worse.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Makes me miss BrocL … he liked that and BG109
Unfortunately it was noted some time ago that that RL uses a non-polar ester but it'll never shear.
twouvakind
Site Donor 2025
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