photo testing

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Figured out my photobucket password. Wifey set it up years ago, so I got on it again. Can't say I like it, all sorts of junk. I guess you get what you pay for (or didn't). So this post is more of a test, to see how well photos come off my iPad onto photobucket and onto here. Pic's are of my Jetta.

Paint is starting to peal nicely off the roof, above the windshield:


and the paint is coming off where the weatherstripping on the door contacts the body:


Found a new problem: one of the roofrack attachment points has sprouted something:




I've noticed lately that the tops of the doors don't quite line up:


Next step: I don't know how much space these photos take up on photobucket, don't really need super high res.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Next step: I don't know how much space these photos take up on photobucket, don't really need super high res.

Free photobucket account gives you 2 GB of space. That's plenty as long as you don't upload super huge images.

The real limitation of free photobucket account is 10 GB of monthly bandwidth quota. If you post a lot of photos on multiple and very active forums, that bandwidth can get eaten up quickly, and when it does, your pics will stop showing to the viewers until the following month when the 10GB quota resets.
 
Is use tinypic.com. No need for an account and it only takes about 15 seconds tops by the time you go to the website until you have the code to post. I've looked back and some of my posts from 8+ months ago still show the photos on here.
 
I've thought about tinypic etc, but am often a bit dismayed when I do searches for xyz and find forum posts where all the photos have expired. I guess posting pics of my rusty car don't need to be preserved for posterity, but still.
 
With the Jetta I'd get a grinder out to blast off the rusty spots and since it's no longer a beauty queen I'd get some bondo, spread it on with a putty knife and use some silver spray paint to try to preserve it a little bit
 
Just one more spot to grind, I guess. Last year I patched both front fenders, both rockers, one door and the rear hatch. As in, all those areas had holes. Most of the repairs have held up, although JB Weld was probably not the right thing to use, as its cracking around the edges. Could stand to touch up a bunch of spots.

I have to pick my budget for this. It's in need of tires, probably a camshaft and a CV boot; it really need strut bushings too. I think I will ignore the bad rear axle (toe in is bad at 0.5deg), the airbag light, the bad cooling fan (it really only needs one) and missing HVAC speed (who uses 3 anyhow?).

I make sure to park in the back of the parking lot at work. Well, I always have, but more so now.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: supton
Just one more spot to grind, I guess. Last year I patched both front fenders, both rockers, one door and the rear hatch. As in, all those areas had holes. Most of the repairs have held up, although JB Weld was probably not the right thing to use, as its cracking around the edges. Could stand to touch up a bunch of spots.

I have to pick my budget for this. It's in need of tires, probably a camshaft and a CV boot; it really need strut bushings too. I think I will ignore the bad rear axle (toe in is bad at 0.5deg), the airbag light, the bad cooling fan (it really only needs one) and missing HVAC speed (who uses 3 anyhow?).

I make sure to park in the back of the parking lot at work. Well, I always have, but more so now.

I had a torn cv boot on the Beetle and just changed the axle, was a much less messy job plus it now has 2 new cv boots on that axle. Axles for the Jetta are $60 at O'Reillys.
 
I keep reading about how those cheapo axles are good for a year. But it is tempting to do just that, and buy the rebuild kit, and just swap back in the "rebuilt" axle when the cheapo one dies. If it dies. I just have to figure out how to remove the axle nut. It looked hard to remove after three years being in place--and that was 7 years ago.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
I keep reading about how those cheapo axles are good for a year. But it is tempting to do just that, and buy the rebuild kit, and just swap back in the "rebuilt" axle when the cheapo one dies. If it dies. I just have to figure out how to remove the axle nut. It looked hard to remove after three years being in place--and that was 7 years ago.

Yeah I heard they might not be any good either, but I kept the old one and if this one gives me any troubles I can just rebuild it with some new boots and throw it on, which I think is gonna be unlikely.
 
My cheap-o cordless impact has had enough oomph to remove axle nuts. Granted it took a while, but it did it.

Rust converter spray or naval jelly for the rust patches, then self-etching primer and topcoat. Prep is key with this, as I've done it in the past and had the rust return a year later. Apparently my prep work wasn't good enough.
 
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