Personal Test; 5w-20 vs 20w-50

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I'm getting so sick of people saying how slow their car feels on one oil or another, and how much fuel mileage they lost. I devised a little test. I live in Youngstown, OH. Test car was a 2006 Cobalt with the 2.2 ecotec engine. Amsoil filter was used for both changes. Drive type and weather was very consistent between fills. (Between 5F and 40F) It consisted of a couple 10 mile trips per day. Usually about 40 miles total. Car specifies 5w30 in usual GM fashion. Tires were studded snows and filled to 30 psi for the entirety of the test. Car had 82,000 miles at the start of testing.

Findings; over 3000 miles on each fill (about 75 days worth of driving). The 5w-20 averaged 26.2 MPG total, and the 20w-50 turned in 26.0 MPG. Honestly, this is close enough to be within statistical noise. i could have bwen giving more gas with the thicker oil because the engine ran smoother and with less noise. Hand calculated at each fuel stop. Car never made terrible noises upon startup, and actually ran much smoother on the thick stuff. Because this is bitog, and you all have to know, Pennzoil conventional was the oil used in both fills.

I should have done used oil analysis but I couldn't justify spending $50 to look at oil in a weight I don't really plan to use again. Take it with a grain of salt, but it seems to me oil is pretty much just oil, and just about any modern oil in just about any weight will not cause an engine to explode like some here like to believe.

PS; please don't shoot me for daring to use 20w-50 in the winter months.
 
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Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko
weather was very consistent between fills. (Between 5F and 40F)


I see a huge difference between 5F and 40F. What were the months of service on each of the oils?
 
I have seen dyno'd proof that a lower viscosity oil will make more power. The test was my brother's Olds drag car.
After break in and several test runs, he settled on Mobil 1 5W30.

My personal use confirms it as well. When you only have 150 cubic inches of AMC four cylinder pushing 650 lbs of wheel/tire, every bit helps. The SAE30 and 10W40 oils I used were nice, but the Q-Horsepower 5W30 has been better. The head and intake porting as well as the header were all completed prior to changing viscosities.

I'll be searching for a 20 weight lube for my 2.5L AMC powered buggy very soon.
 
Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko
...it seems to me oil is pretty much just oil, and just about any modern oil in just about any weight will not cause an engine to explode like some here like to believe.

+1
 
I full agree thin oil makes power. I just don't think in an average little commuter car that uses less than 50 HP for most of the time you'll ever notice a difference. If you guys want a thick oil test, I'm going to run Redline 10w-60 in my viper that calls for 10w30 here shortly. I will UOA that one.
 
Imagine all that bore wear, I bet you added another inch of clearance
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No just kidding, real interesting observations though. Thanks for sharing
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I am curious about the exact brands and types of oils.

20W has long been considered adequate for about 10F, hasn't it?
 
Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko
Take it with a grain of salt, but it seems to me oil is pretty much just oil, and just about any modern oil in just about any weight will not cause an engine to explode like some here like to believe.


I'm not sure I've EVER read on here, outside of someone joking about it, that the wrong viscosity will cause an engine to explode.
 
Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko

Take it with a grain of salt, but it seems to me oil is pretty much just oil, and just about any modern oil in just about any weight will not cause an engine to explode like some here like to believe.



I've never actually heard anyone make that claim? If so, cars would never run, since cold 0W20 is still WAY thicker than hot 20W50.

As far as the fuel economy calculations, you're trying to weigh feathers on a truck scale. Sorry, but it's not going to happen--there are just far too many variables at play.
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko

Take it with a grain of salt, but it seems to me oil is pretty much just oil, and just about any modern oil in just about any weight will not cause an engine to explode like some here like to believe.



I've never actually heard anyone make that claim? If so, cars would never run, since cold 0W20 is still WAY thicker than hot 20W50.

As far as the fuel economy calculations, you're trying to weigh feathers on a truck scale. Sorry, but it's not going to happen--there are just far too many variables at play.


It was a bit of an exaggeration. People make it seem like too think an oil will destroy an engine like its the end of the world.
 
Originally Posted By: NateDN10
Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko
...it seems to me oil is pretty much just oil, and just about any modern oil in just about any weight will not cause an engine to explode like some here like to believe.

+1
Oil is not pretty much oil. It is a consumer product attached to carefully-crafted brands. And if "oil is pretty much oil," why do three out of four oil choice threads end or come close to ending with something very close to this statement: "Any way you slice it, you'll be well served with Mobil 1 (oil weight "per manufacturer suggestion goes here)"

On the original poster's topic, he starts with an incorrect premise - that the primary purpose of oil is to increase fuel efficiency. The function of oil is to lubricate and cool.

On the idea that "oil is oil," this premise is usually connected to the probably valid notion that oils do not vary that much from brand to brand. Oil weights, though, do make a difference. Let's say that you have a new Accord specced for 0w20, and you read the OP's note and decide that you should run that Earth Dreams sled on 20W50 from your 25-year-old stash -- you, my friend, are on your own!
 
Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko
I'm getting so sick of people saying how slow their car feels on one oil or another, and how much fuel mileage they lost. ...

PS; please don't shoot me for daring to use 20w-50 in the winter months.


My Yaris felt bogged down during high throttling poke-a-bout driving with HD10w30 Rotella - didn't see much of a MPG hit though.
Are you feeling sick now?

IN motorsports - "Thick oil robs power, thin oil blows motors."
 
Not feeling sick in the slightest. 20w-50 lubricated everything just fine after the initial cold start. I haven't put any oil back in the car yet. Currently deciding what to use. I'm almost considering another fill of the Pennzoil Conventional 20w50 just so I can get a used oil analysis for you guys. I have like 200 quarts of the stuff.
 
I have also seen real world results on a dyno in a Neon R/T with minor mods. Gained about 6 hp on 0w30 versus 10W-40, same dyno same day.

There's a lot of comic hysteria around here...
 
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