Permatex Blue RTV?

[demarpaint]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2340097#Post2340097

I mentioned in this thread the need to repair my oil pan.

I followed eljefino's great idea and managed to cobble lead over the area where the oil pan was leaking. I used the Permatex Blue RTV to glue the lead into place and it is holding quite well. Here's the question, since I blobbed almost a full tooth-paste sized tube into the lead, and no air is getting to it, how long before I can add oil to the pan and fire it up? I figure the heat from the oil pan will help to dry and cure it, and prior to putting the patch on I JB Weld the area and it was oil free.

I planned first thing tomorrow morning which will be about 20 hours. Or can I fill it up now and go, its been about 4 hours? Thanks.

 

[Jakegday]

just today i tried repairing my leaky tranny pan on my fairmont. it was perfect til i went to change the filter, i put on a new gasket and it has leaked ever since. i tightened the bolts in an order similar to a head gasket, and torqued them perfectly, and it still leaked. so today i dropped the pan again, and coated both sides of the gasket with VersaChem Mega Black gasket maker from O'Riellys.

on to my point, since i REALLY want this to work, i plan on waiting at least a full 24 hours for it to cure before i put a drop of fluid back into it..

 

[LC4RN8]

I'd give it a while. In my experience RTV, unless it's being used as a mild adhesive to hold a paper gasket on, should be allowed a good 8-12 hours before the part it's used on is placed in service. Even when you're just using it to hold a gasket it's a decent idea to let it set up for a minimum of four hours.

If the blue junk doesn't work get some of the Permatex Black. Stuff works very well.

 

[doitmyself]

If the patch is large, maybe over 2" x 2", I would think that the RTV may never cure in the center.

From my understanding, the RTV reacts with moisture in the air to cure. If the outside edges of the patch cure fully, air will not get to the center to allow it to cure.

If you push a half inch of RTV out the tube end and let it cure, it forms a plug and the rest of the tube does not cure. Same principle with your patch.

Also, from my correspondence with a Permatex tech., the ultra black is best for strength, oil resistance, adhesion, etc..

 

[GMBoy]

I've always used the copper but I hear black is good too. The old blue is not the RTV of choice anymore.

 

[stroked93]

Blue is corrosive and old technology. ultra gray is the newest and greatest universal sealant

 

[demarpaint]

Thanks for the replies. Since I went with Blue, and don't feel like pulling it apart I'm stuck. I'll let it sit over night, fill it, fire it up and hope the heat from the engine eventually cures it. It stuck so well, I'd have to pry it apart. Worst case is it leaks, I pry it apart and try something else. I have a good feeling, since the pan itself wasn't leaking, when I made the lead patch. JB Weld and foil took care of that. Eventually it will cure, and if it doesn't I'm out $6, and some time. I should have asked the question first, LOL. The funny thing in all of this is I said to myself, when you open the tube and srew the cap back on the contents of the tube remain good. Same thing applies here, only I have the heat from the oil pan to hopefully cure the stuff. I hope!!!!!!!

Thanks guys!