Pennzoil really cleans?
- Thread starter NavyVet88
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Their own website indicates there are better choices in the product line to "clean"
It is often repeated; I have it in my friends 200K, 14yo Tundra and I don't see any evidence that extraordinary events are taking place; however there is no evidence that there needs to be.
It is often repeated; I have it in my friends 200K, 14yo Tundra and I don't see any evidence that extraordinary events are taking place; however there is no evidence that there needs to be.
All modern oils clean/keep engines clean. The cleaning ability of magnatec vs a Pennzoil product will be similar.
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All the name brand SN oils will do a good job of cleaning. Typically synthetic does even a better job than conventional oil. Keep the oil changes to 5K.
Unless you have pulled the valve cover how do you know you have sludge? Looking down the oil fill is not a good indicator.
Unless you have pulled the valve cover how do you know you have sludge? Looking down the oil fill is not a good indicator.
Originally Posted By: cat843
All the name brand SN oils will do a good job of cleaning. Typically synthetic does even a better job than conventional oil. Keep the oil changes to 5K.
Unless you have pulled the valve cover how do you know you have sludge? Looking down the oil fill is not a good indicator.
Mostly a measure of preventative maintenance
All the name brand SN oils will do a good job of cleaning. Typically synthetic does even a better job than conventional oil. Keep the oil changes to 5K.
Unless you have pulled the valve cover how do you know you have sludge? Looking down the oil fill is not a good indicator.
Mostly a measure of preventative maintenance
Originally Posted By: cat843
All the name brand SN oils will do a good job of cleaning. Typically synthetic does even a better job than conventional oil. Keep the oil changes to 5K.
Unless you have pulled the valve cover how do you know you have sludge? Looking down the oil fill is not a good indicator.
Everyone on this site assumes their engine is fully sludged and needs a cleaning....It just feels right!
All the name brand SN oils will do a good job of cleaning. Typically synthetic does even a better job than conventional oil. Keep the oil changes to 5K.
Unless you have pulled the valve cover how do you know you have sludge? Looking down the oil fill is not a good indicator.
Everyone on this site assumes their engine is fully sludged and needs a cleaning....It just feels right!
If know your engine internals need some cleaning up the best choice would be any Diesel Oil in the weight range for your truck.
They are all good, Delvac, Rotella, Delo, Valvoline. I would use conventional but thats up to you if you wanted the synthetic version, they all come in both forms.
Diesel oil is a slightly upgraded high performance oil more capable of preventing piston deposits and controlling soot. They also all carry the API of SM for gasoline engines.
Click here for an example
Another
They are all good, Delvac, Rotella, Delo, Valvoline. I would use conventional but thats up to you if you wanted the synthetic version, they all come in both forms.
Diesel oil is a slightly upgraded high performance oil more capable of preventing piston deposits and controlling soot. They also all carry the API of SM for gasoline engines.
Click here for an example
Another
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I have never seen a dirty engine that has ran on Pennzoil for the majority of its life, I can't say the same for other oils. Pretty much any SN rated oil will keep your engine clean if changed at the appropriate intervals. Pennzoil does tout that they keep pistons and rings clean, which I why I will keep using it in the Accord.
Pennzoil does a good job keeping engines clean. I wish they'd follow Mobil's lead and some of the others and offer PU and/or PP in 0W30.
I've asked this question before and people cite the quick darkening of the oil on the dipstick with PYB.
Originally Posted By: cat843
All the name brand SN oils will do a good job of cleaning. Typically synthetic does even a better job than conventional oil. Keep the oil changes to 5K.
Unless you have pulled the valve cover how do you know you have sludge? Looking down the oil fill is not a good indicator.
Actually it doesn't.
Synthetics tend to leave less in the way of deposits. Group 2 oils actually clean better however they tend to leave more behind.
Pao for example has poor additive solubility and don't clean whatsoever however if burned by the rings they burn clean.
And why wouldn't looking at the head be a good indicator? If he can see deposits wouldn't that indicate there are some.
Op if you've got deposits that you can actually see I suggest using a conventional and short intervals and a cheap filter.
Molekule recommended a product but I forget what it's called. It's in a yellow bottle and either a concentrate or a regular strength line.
Pm Molekule.
I also suggest a flush type product at the end of the interval if there is visible deposits remaining at the end of the short interval.
When I get a new to me vehicle I use my Milwaukee inspection camera down the fill hole and look for deposits.
If any exist I run conventional a grade thicker than spec and either seafoam or mmo til the oil is black or 2000 miles.
Repeat until clean.
Once clean I run extended oil and filter change intervals.
I've used these products for many years now and in severely neglected engines and always managed to get them spotless.
Running just oil to clean up a neglected engine with real deposit issues will take many,many thousands of miles if it even can clean them up. Sometimes you've just gotta use an additive made for cleaning.
I've never,ever had an engine fail using these products as directed. Never. Follow the instructions.
All the name brand SN oils will do a good job of cleaning. Typically synthetic does even a better job than conventional oil. Keep the oil changes to 5K.
Unless you have pulled the valve cover how do you know you have sludge? Looking down the oil fill is not a good indicator.
Actually it doesn't.
Synthetics tend to leave less in the way of deposits. Group 2 oils actually clean better however they tend to leave more behind.
Pao for example has poor additive solubility and don't clean whatsoever however if burned by the rings they burn clean.
And why wouldn't looking at the head be a good indicator? If he can see deposits wouldn't that indicate there are some.
Op if you've got deposits that you can actually see I suggest using a conventional and short intervals and a cheap filter.
Molekule recommended a product but I forget what it's called. It's in a yellow bottle and either a concentrate or a regular strength line.
Pm Molekule.
I also suggest a flush type product at the end of the interval if there is visible deposits remaining at the end of the short interval.
When I get a new to me vehicle I use my Milwaukee inspection camera down the fill hole and look for deposits.
If any exist I run conventional a grade thicker than spec and either seafoam or mmo til the oil is black or 2000 miles.
Repeat until clean.
Once clean I run extended oil and filter change intervals.
I've used these products for many years now and in severely neglected engines and always managed to get them spotless.
Running just oil to clean up a neglected engine with real deposit issues will take many,many thousands of miles if it even can clean them up. Sometimes you've just gotta use an additive made for cleaning.
I've never,ever had an engine fail using these products as directed. Never. Follow the instructions.
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
I've asked this question before and people cite the quick darkening of the oil on the dipstick with PYB.
I seen these posts too however oil darkening could indicate cleaning,or it might indicate that the oil just gets darker as miles accumulate.
I don't put much stock in that idea personally though. Pyb is a great oil. Especially now that the pqi tested it and their results imply it's more than a conventional even though it's labelled as such.
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
Well what about the magnatec? Have you guys used it? It'll be my first go at using a blend oil
Magnatec is a great product however I don't bother with blends. Not when on sale syns can be found easily and 10000 mile intervals are nice.
I've asked this question before and people cite the quick darkening of the oil on the dipstick with PYB.
I seen these posts too however oil darkening could indicate cleaning,or it might indicate that the oil just gets darker as miles accumulate.
I don't put much stock in that idea personally though. Pyb is a great oil. Especially now that the pqi tested it and their results imply it's more than a conventional even though it's labelled as such.
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
Well what about the magnatec? Have you guys used it? It'll be my first go at using a blend oil
Magnatec is a great product however I don't bother with blends. Not when on sale syns can be found easily and 10000 mile intervals are nice.
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Originally Posted By: Clevy
Running just oil to clean up a neglected engine with real deposit issues will take many,many thousands of miles if it even can clean them up. Sometimes you've just gotta use an additive made for cleaning.
Exactly, keeping an engine clean and cleaning an already truly dirty one are completely different propositions.
Countless pictures of spotless engines posted here, many run on moderate intervals of full syns, have led many to the false conclusion that full syns are a magic cleaner in a bottle. Not true.
JMO.
Running just oil to clean up a neglected engine with real deposit issues will take many,many thousands of miles if it even can clean them up. Sometimes you've just gotta use an additive made for cleaning.
Exactly, keeping an engine clean and cleaning an already truly dirty one are completely different propositions.
Countless pictures of spotless engines posted here, many run on moderate intervals of full syns, have led many to the false conclusion that full syns are a magic cleaner in a bottle. Not true.
JMO.
Support Pennzoil they will and shall keep an engine clean during reasonable OCI
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