I really couldn't care less how an oil is made, for the most part I only care what licenses, specifications or approvals the oil holds or does not hold. I'm not able to translate how a certain base stock composition translates to performance. But I do know that one with Mercedes-Benz 229.5, BMW Longlife-04 or VW 504 00 approval have demonstrated performance in multiple areas. Where you go for this information is on the oil bottle or container. This is the only disclosure that really matters. One thing that's for sure, Project Farm and the rest are not doing any tests that disclose any missing information.Where else are you going to get any information. Not from the oil blenders. Trade secret, we are not goig to disclose how much group lII, IV, V or what ever is in our blend. Lol. I have learned plenty watching Lake Speed Jr videos. I do 6 to 7 K mile oci. And I am sure most synthetic oils at Walmart would do the job. I do one oil change per year. Probably over thinking the oil brand issue. But I don't get the Amsoil, HLF and other fan boys that pay triple + for motor oil. I have owned 25 cars since 1980 always used Mobil 1 Castrol or Pennzoil synthetic oils never had a motor fail. So, I will continue to use PP or PUP for now, with the current $25 rebate $2.30 per qt when buying 2-5qt jugs, how could you go wrong. Most of the stuff I read on line is just opinion even on this site.
You can pay more for certain oils with high-performance base stocks and if that's your goal then I don't begrudge anyone doing that. But when buying an oil "off-the-shelf" as it were, I go by a demanding approval. I don't have the skills nor the ability to make predictions on my own. Nor do I really go by brand either.