Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, 5924 miles on '08 Civic Si
- Thread starter OrdnanceMarine
- Start date
- Status
Didn't burn any oil?
Originally Posted By: Liquid_Turbo
Didn't burn any oil?
Originally Posted By: OrdnanceMarine
I estimate that the engine consumed approximately 1/3 quart.
Didn't burn any oil?
Originally Posted By: OrdnanceMarine
I estimate that the engine consumed approximately 1/3 quart.
Originally Posted By: Liquid_Turbo
Can't go wrong w/ PP 5w30. If it's good enough for the K23A1's Turbo and HTO-06, it should be great for your 8,000rpm redlines.
Hitting VTEC in the K-Series is a little piece of automotive heaven.
That's the best part about the Hondata reflash. They've corrected the VTEC dip that the stock program had with the VTEC changeover at 5800 RPM. Now it's down at 4500 RPM and you get much more linear power delivery. Here's the dyno from the day I did the reflash. Red and green were done before and blue was done after. Notice the huge surge in torque with the stock program? That's because 5800 RPM is way too long to ride the low lobes of the cams.
Can't go wrong w/ PP 5w30. If it's good enough for the K23A1's Turbo and HTO-06, it should be great for your 8,000rpm redlines.
Hitting VTEC in the K-Series is a little piece of automotive heaven.
That's the best part about the Hondata reflash. They've corrected the VTEC dip that the stock program had with the VTEC changeover at 5800 RPM. Now it's down at 4500 RPM and you get much more linear power delivery. Here's the dyno from the day I did the reflash. Red and green were done before and blue was done after. Notice the huge surge in torque with the stock program? That's because 5800 RPM is way too long to ride the low lobes of the cams.
This is after the CAI too, right? The stock airbox actually does well with the higher VTEC switch. If you reflashed with the stock intake, the torque dip looks even worse... at least every K20A2 I ever looked at did. I assume the Z3 isn't any different. The A2 VTEC switch was only 5200 with the reflash #4, but most people who ran the K-pro ran it down lower like where yours is.
That's the beauty of CAIs on the K motors. They are the PERFECT length for ideal intake frequency, and they prevent the overly sensitive ECU from yanking out timing when it starts sniffing warm air.
210whp with 2 mods... and no forced induction. Nice.
That's the beauty of CAIs on the K motors. They are the PERFECT length for ideal intake frequency, and they prevent the overly sensitive ECU from yanking out timing when it starts sniffing warm air.
210whp with 2 mods... and no forced induction. Nice.
That's with the stock intake, P2R throttle body spacer, intake manifold gasket, Vibrant header with high-flow cat, Vibrant exhaust. Since then I've added the new AEM CAI (has vanes to correct MAF sensor reading) and NST pulleys.
Hey Ordnance,
Good to see you over here. I'll give my interpretation of your results as someone with 23k miles of UOA history with blackstone on a '06 SI. First though, here's my latest:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1306650&fpart=1
Since then, I've got another ~8k on a fill of AMSOIL SSO 0w30. I'm going to run it to 16k and sample. I'll make sure you see it.
Your UOA looks great, first off, and at your low mileage I'd be curious about the effects of background noise. Your engine is REALLY still breaking in....
Your wear metals are a little high, but your oil was in for 60% of the car's life.
My recommendation, based upon my own experiences, is to switch to SSO 0w30 after your next fill and run for 10k....even with your modifications. You do shorter trips than me, but your engine is probably running a little less rich than mine (definitely not lean though).
Now, saying that, I still think you are so easy in your car's life that it's hard to make much determination. These cars have such great little engines that you can pretty much do nothing run as long as you change the oil on time. You are most likely shifting at 8300-8400 tops, as that will give you the best powerband use, so I doubt you are getting Tin wear due to beating on it (unless you spent some time brushing into the new 8600 rpm fuel cutoff, in which case maybe).
I'm betting your next sample of PP will show across the board decreases (unless your new filter doesn't do it's job). If you are interesting in running 10k oil changes with a wonderful oil, switch to SSO and I'd put money on wear going below PP levels.
Nonetheless, this is great. My back-up plan has always been to switch to PP 5w30 for 10k intervals, since I've got so many gallons in my basement for use in the Legacy GT. Good to see what it can do in an SI.
Joe
Good to see you over here. I'll give my interpretation of your results as someone with 23k miles of UOA history with blackstone on a '06 SI. First though, here's my latest:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1306650&fpart=1
Since then, I've got another ~8k on a fill of AMSOIL SSO 0w30. I'm going to run it to 16k and sample. I'll make sure you see it.
Your UOA looks great, first off, and at your low mileage I'd be curious about the effects of background noise. Your engine is REALLY still breaking in....
Your wear metals are a little high, but your oil was in for 60% of the car's life.
My recommendation, based upon my own experiences, is to switch to SSO 0w30 after your next fill and run for 10k....even with your modifications. You do shorter trips than me, but your engine is probably running a little less rich than mine (definitely not lean though).
Now, saying that, I still think you are so easy in your car's life that it's hard to make much determination. These cars have such great little engines that you can pretty much do nothing run as long as you change the oil on time. You are most likely shifting at 8300-8400 tops, as that will give you the best powerband use, so I doubt you are getting Tin wear due to beating on it (unless you spent some time brushing into the new 8600 rpm fuel cutoff, in which case maybe).
I'm betting your next sample of PP will show across the board decreases (unless your new filter doesn't do it's job). If you are interesting in running 10k oil changes with a wonderful oil, switch to SSO and I'd put money on wear going below PP levels.
Nonetheless, this is great. My back-up plan has always been to switch to PP 5w30 for 10k intervals, since I've got so many gallons in my basement for use in the Legacy GT. Good to see what it can do in an SI.
Joe
Thanks for the write up, Joe. I'll probably stick with PP early on since anything more expensive would be getting changed to flush the break in residue LONG before the oil itself actually wears out (this oil wasn't even close to wearing out). Over the next few changes I'll work my way to longer and longer OCIs on the PP as long as the numbers come up favorable (I've got 10 qts on hand). When I find the useful life of that oil I may change to the SSO and then sample at whatever time/distance I was dumping the PP at for a 1:1 comparison and see how much longer it can stay in the sump. I'm not sure what 6 quarts of SSO run ($60?), but at $4/qt for PP I question whether I'll save any money over the long run. Might do it just for the "fun" factor. Lord knows that my UOAs are more for fun than necessity at this point!
PP is a great oil and $4 a quart is cheap....SSO probably won't win over a cost comparison. Once you finish cleaning out the gunk, I'll be curious to see your wear patterns per 1000 miles....SSO blows me away on aluminum, and iron is [censored] near 1ppm/1000 miles even after 14,500 miles of usage with a K&N air filter
I don't think I had any lead or tin at all, but could be wrong. Again though, pretty good after 14,500 miles on the oil.
One thing I'll note: I was consuming ~1 quart every 3000-5000 miles during my last chance, making it a much more expensive oil change (using SSO). Since then, my consumption has declined to maybe one quart per 5000-7500 miles.
For me, the oil changes on this car are a real PITA. So I like changing it only 1-2x per year
Joe
I don't think I had any lead or tin at all, but could be wrong. Again though, pretty good after 14,500 miles on the oil.
One thing I'll note: I was consuming ~1 quart every 3000-5000 miles during my last chance, making it a much more expensive oil change (using SSO). Since then, my consumption has declined to maybe one quart per 5000-7500 miles.
For me, the oil changes on this car are a real PITA. So I like changing it only 1-2x per year
Joe
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The PP 5W-30 in this case has sheared down to a 20 grade.
Why not just start off with a 5W-20 grade? I'm sure a subsiquent UOA would still be good.
It's on the upper end of a 20 weight and it seems that PP 5w30 is a thin 30 to start with so it may not have sheared as much as "It went from a 30 to a 20 weight" makes it sound. For whatever reason, Blackstone lists it within their "range" knowing that this was a 5w30 oil. Anyone know why they would have done this? How much thinner does PP's 5w20 start out and shear down? If any engine were able to shear an oil, this one would be able to do it.
The PP 5W-30 in this case has sheared down to a 20 grade.
Why not just start off with a 5W-20 grade? I'm sure a subsiquent UOA would still be good.
It's on the upper end of a 20 weight and it seems that PP 5w30 is a thin 30 to start with so it may not have sheared as much as "It went from a 30 to a 20 weight" makes it sound. For whatever reason, Blackstone lists it within their "range" knowing that this was a 5w30 oil. Anyone know why they would have done this? How much thinner does PP's 5w20 start out and shear down? If any engine were able to shear an oil, this one would be able to do it.
- Status
