Penn Crude 'oiliness' vs. additives.....

[addyguy]

For any oil that has been made out of Pennsylvania Crude oil (stuff from those actual wells), one attribute it has always been given is that it has higher 'oiliness' than other oils, and it sticks to metal better. This claim is still being made with the new Brad-Penn oils from these wells.

If you look at VOA's of this oil (the Penngrade1 stuff on here) they use no moly or boron in their formulation - I'm assuming that this 'oilines' they claim means 'coating' additives like moly or boron aren't needed, the oil film is enough.

Has anyone done a study, or have any idea, which is the more effective method of metal protection - this 'oiliness' Penngrade oils claim, or higher-processed grop II and II+ oils (BP oils still use some group I) with moly and/or boron added to them?

Also, does anyone know exactly what this 'oiliness' is from? I'm sure I've read somewhere that group I base oils, with higher levels of impurities, as 'stickier' than higher-processed oils. So I'd guess this 'oilines' is this stickiness from the higher amounts of sulpher, and other 'stuff' that is in group I oils, and processed out of group II and up base oils.

Any thoughts?

 

[Johnny]

I've never heard the 'oiliness' theory before, but I have been told that the PA Grade Crude had a higher natural VI than other crude's and was not subject to wide viscosity swings. I know one thing for sure, I will not use any oil that has Group I base stocks in it.

 

[UNC017]

I give that theory EXACTLY as much credibility as the old theory that Pennzoil and QS caused sludge because they were "made from waxy PA crude."

 

[addyguy]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
I've never heard the 'oiliness' theory before, but I have been told that the PA Grade Crude had a higher natural VI than other crude's and was not subject to wide viscosity swings. I know one thing for sure, I will not use any oil that has Group I base stocks in it.


It appears their 'mainstream grades' - 5W-20, 5w30, and 10w30 don't use any (all use some form of 'hydrotreated' base oil). Only their thicker and single-grade oils do. So that might not be a concern....

 

[JohnBrowning]

I am thinking that they mean how satuarated the oil is before they hydrotreat it. Last I checked the higher the saturation level the better the raw material is. Better raw materials equal better finished product with regard to oxidation resistance.

Only polarity can make an oil stick to the metal outised of adhesion or tackifers which only work when an oil is cold.

Since they are hydrotreating the oil I doubt that the physical traits of it as it comes out of the ground does not matter as much as it once did.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I was reading on a Corvette forum last night where a member said conventional oils "stick" to metal parts better. Only thing I`ve noticed is that Valvoline and Pennzoil conventional oils do feel "stickier" between your fingers than the synths I`ve felt. I wonder if that has anything to do with why people always report those oils as giving their cars quiet cold startups?

 

[addyguy]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I was reading on a Corvette forum last night where a member said conventional oils "stick" to metal parts better. Only thing I`ve noticed is that Valvoline and Pennzoil conventional oils do feel "stickier" between your fingers than the synths I`ve felt. I wonder if that has anything to do with why people always report those oils as giving their cars quiet cold startups?


I don't doubt this is true for a second.....I think this is exactly the case. Was just curious if some 'stuck' better than others naturally, and if that was a 'compensation' for additives.......

 

[PT1]

Group V oil like redline has the best "oilness" and clings to metal better IMO. After which would be conventional oils.

 

[aquariuscsm]

You hear people talking about mixing their own oils all the time. The only time I`ve ever done it was when I had 4 quarts of M1 and a half quart of RP,I didn`t want anything to go to waste so I just used it all up like that. Some say dino clings better,while synthetic lubricates better. What kind`ve mix would say,4 quarts of group IV with a half a quart dino be (all the same grade of course)? I have a couple of cases of RP (which I want to use for my next oci) and I have 3 half quarts of dinos laying around (Valvoline and Pennzoil). Would using a half quart of dino to just fill the filter and then filling the crank case of with the RP hurt anything? It seems to me it`d be perfectly fine,but I thought I`d run it past my fellow BITOG members.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Would using a half quart of dino to just fill the filter and then filling the crank case of with the RP hurt anything? It seems to me it`d be perfectly fine,but I thought I`d run it past my fellow BITOG members.



I see no problem with that at all. I've topped up with half qt of dino in synthetic fills, and did it the other way around too. My Aerostar holds 4.5 qts, so what ever half qt is open gets poured in at times. You'll be just fine.

 

[cven]

IIRC... Mr Hillary said when the first synthetics were made there target was to better the Pennsylvania crude that at the time was considered the best available.

Don't have a clue if that means anything today but I've been using the Brad-Penn 10/40 motorcycle oil for a year & 1/2 in my cycle and just started running it in my Z-28. I like American made stuff and in these tuff times I will support companies that keep my neighbors working.

 

[mechtech2]

Better base oil from certain locations? Years ago, this may have had a lot more credibility.
But now, the end result is what matters, not what they started with. It may save some refining costs to have a better base stock, but that is not our problem.

 

[JohnBrowning]

I do not think conventional oil sticks to metal better at all....It is easier to see on the parts because it turns dark much faster. SInce it does not flow as well cold it will take longer for it to ruin off the parts but that does not mean it sticks any better. What is more important is additive package and the quality of the film that remains on the parts.

I have come back to engines that where sitting for six months while i was out of the country working and one time I actualy pulled the valve cover to see what was still on the parts. At that time I was at Ft. Stewart in Ga. about 5 hours south of Ft. Benning. I was useing Mobil 1 15W50 back then and the cam in my 22RE was still covered in in an oil film and I could still see pockets of oil betweenthe cam follower and the cam. I never did that with conventional oil ie let it sit six months and then check it. I have to figure that Mobil 1 was all PAO back then except for the mineral oil carrier used for the additives back then. So I would figure most all synthetics would behave the same.

Also most say 90% of the OTC synthetics in AMerica are not really synthetic at all they are mostly GIII and since that counts as Conventional oil in just about every country on this earth besides AMerica I do not see where it matters. You would never catch me running a G1 oil in anything I own!