Anyone here using a PCV catch can on a non-turbo vehicle? Any recommendations other than the $160 one from Accurate Machine Works (great product, but too much $$$!) I've read the Greddy is ok, but needs more baffling. Also, are these fairly easy to install?
PCV Catch Can
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I don't have one but I've seen guys with Maximas using a air compressor filter sold at the air tools section at a hardware store for this purpose. Kinda guetto but you can't get cheaper than that...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/301377/13
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/301377/13
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Make your own. Just create a bigger chamber for the flow to lose its velocity ..the heavy stuff drops out ...viola!~. Rig a dual ingress ..with one allowing the draining back to the valve cover ...and never have to service is. Those who see crap in their catch cans ...see it simply because it sequesters it and it condenses and cools ..and therefore emulsifies. If it just drained back when you shut the key off ..it would not look like that (think about it a little before you object).
Many people use an inline water separator [like me] for air lines.
They are about $12.00 at Home Depot.
You have to empty the chamber every couple of weeks - it doesn't hold much.
They are about $12.00 at Home Depot.
You have to empty the chamber every couple of weeks - it doesn't hold much.
I bought a PCV catch can made by Boomba Racing. It is more compact than the one made by Accurate Machine Work (AMW), and is easier to install. It works very well except the inner plastic tube (allowing you to see the content of the can) keeps cracking. I asked for a warranty replacement plastic tube, and it cracked too. Now I got the second replacement tube, but am afraid to put it on. So, I bought a can made by AMW, which is bulkier but very well made.
I havn't replaced the can made by Boomba Racing. Since the tube is cracked, there is leackage visible. will such leackage of gas harm the engine?
I havn't replaced the can made by Boomba Racing. Since the tube is cracked, there is leackage visible. will such leackage of gas harm the engine?
I put one on my old pick-up after reading about them here. I got one at a garage sale (pretty high quality) for 25 cents. The old engine has a lot of blowby and I collect about a tablespoon every hundred miles or so. I'm hoping this may help me pass emissions.
The AMW catch-can is worth every penny, IMO.
Except for vehicles with horribly worn engines, it's plenty large enough to allow for "at-oil-change" drains, won't crack, and will last forever.
I have two of them on my 2AZ-FE VVT-i 2.4L Toyota engine -- one for the valve cover breather (upstream from the throttle body), and the other supporting the PCV valve.
Except for vehicles with horribly worn engines, it's plenty large enough to allow for "at-oil-change" drains, won't crack, and will last forever.
I have two of them on my 2AZ-FE VVT-i 2.4L Toyota engine -- one for the valve cover breather (upstream from the throttle body), and the other supporting the PCV valve.
You can make your own -- out of air compressor filter + parts for around $25. Or you can buy them on e-bay for $25 shipped. Do a search on ebay for "Oil Catch Can". I plan to buy on there soon -- as this is a problem with 2.0 SOHC Neons...
Here is an example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-...ewItemQQcategoryZ33556QQitemZ8054605979QQrdZ1
Here is an example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-...ewItemQQcategoryZ33556QQitemZ8054605979QQrdZ1
will this cure the white fatty junk that the dodge dakota 4.7 gets in its oil filler neck. we know its from the PCV. but dodge wont come out with a fix. they say it wont hurt. but it can look nasty. one of those rather safe than sorry
on the picture here -
the part that says "from engine" is the part where you hook the tube coming off the PCV valve to right? then the other end where the tube used to go? wouldnt the junk just jump from one tube to the other or is the suction not that hard?
is adding this emmissions legal? thanks
the part that says "from engine" is the part where you hook the tube coming off the PCV valve to right? then the other end where the tube used to go? wouldnt the junk just jump from one tube to the other or is the suction not that hard?
is adding this emmissions legal? thanks
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wouldnt the junk just jump from one tube to the other or is the suction not that hard?
Think shop vac. How does the stuff fall to the bottom
The larger chamber reduces the velocity to near ZERO ..heavier stuff sinks out ...lighter stuff continues on. This is the theory that is used in clarification. Your heavier particles are integrated with a flow ...sustained in suspension by the flow ...add a "still well" ....flow is reduced ..loses its velocity ..flow that maintains particles in suspension is eliminated ...particles precipitate and fall out.
Viola!~
Think shop vac. How does the stuff fall to the bottom
Viola!~
I did the Husky compressor filter. Before I cut it in, I pulled the oil cap off, and kinda gauged by feel how hard a sheet of cardboard was drawn against the oil-hole at idle, and at a steady 3k RPM. After I installed the filter, I did the same test, and the draw was identical.
The filter is rated at, if memory serves, 190 psi @ 25 CFM, so there should be plenty of capacity. I am thinking of removing the filter stone, however, I can see how that might get obstructed..
I did a trip to Baltimore from Dulles (100 miles or so, so far), and going back tonight (another 100), but so far, it's as clean as when I installed it yesterday. I'm driving a lot this weekend, I'll take a pic of the installation and post it Monday.
The filter is rated at, if memory serves, 190 psi @ 25 CFM, so there should be plenty of capacity. I am thinking of removing the filter stone, however, I can see how that might get obstructed..
I did a trip to Baltimore from Dulles (100 miles or so, so far), and going back tonight (another 100), but so far, it's as clean as when I installed it yesterday. I'm driving a lot this weekend, I'll take a pic of the installation and post it Monday.
I'm tracking a few of these on ebay. I'm going to put 2 on my 92 toyota 3vze.
PP: Put a stainless steel pot scrubber in the catch can, have the "in" side tube go to a lower spot in the can. The vapors will condence on the scrubber and drip to the bottom of the can.
You get the idea.
Smoke
You get the idea.
Smoke
I just bought THIS Catch Can for PCV. I was thinking I should use the bottom tube as the IN port and the top as the OUT port (with some stainless steel wool inside)- does this sound right? Also, it appears that the bottom port is awfully close to the bottom of the can- do you think the liquid can block the IN port? (I don't have this can yet- it's being shipped)
what about the catch cans on ebay that have the clear tubing down the side of the catch can like this one? does the pcv valve output junk come through the top on one side then out the top on the other and the tubing is just a level indicator, or does it get sucked down the tubing from the top and then settle to the bottom and then the air get sucked out the top on the other end?
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If you configure your own, you need never service it if you make it like this. Unless you're puking MAJOR heavy vapor ..and do it over a very long time, the precipitated oil will just drain back into the crankcase.
The main idea here is to prevent the oil from hitting the intake ...this is simple enough. The nasty aspect of it isn't from the vapor/precipitant itself ..it's the fact that you allow it to collect and cool.
Pardon my simplistic illustration
The main idea here is to prevent the oil from hitting the intake ...this is simple enough. The nasty aspect of it isn't from the vapor/precipitant itself ..it's the fact that you allow it to collect and cool.
Pardon my simplistic illustration
I made one out of a 9" x 3" piece of aluminum conduit. It has the in and out ports on the same end but seperated by a baffle. On the other end at the bottom there is a sprong loaded brass check valve. This closes under engine vacuum and opens at 0 vacuuum. This allows it to drain at WOT and when the engine is off.
Works great.
Here is a lnk to a page of pictures. http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=1648&s=9266#content
Works great.
Here is a lnk to a page of pictures. http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=1648&s=9266#content
A $2 clear plastic fuel filter works pretty well if you are putting it on an engine that is not creating alot of condensate. I've had one on a '71 Chrysler 440 for about the last 1,000 miles and there's maybe a half ounce of brown liquid in it. Probably just swap it out once a year for the heck of it. It is hard for me to imagine where all this stuff is coming from on these little 4-bangers.
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