passenger head sludged up!! help

[lukesabucco]

sorry guys, have been to work all day, ok the car is a 98 mustang gt 4.6 with 113k miles, the oil pressure was good when i drove it home which was 2 hour drive, the car never got hot, seemed completly mechanically fine except for the timing chain slack,
i dont have any history on the car whutsoever.. after seeing this i plan on buying a bone yard pi motor in fall, but my current plan is to try to clean it some, flush it and fix the timing, will engine degreaser and brake cleaner hurt when spraying it into the heads to try and clean some of it up.. my goal is to hopefully run the car until sept or oct, before it snows.....

 

[TheTanSedan]

My routine on engine internals is:

Molasoak (with a new, light, cheap oil/filter)
MOPAR COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER
ARX (with diesel rate oil & high-flow/synthetic media filters; otherwise per ARX instructions)
RED LINE oil

I'd be wary of the cooling system, too.

 

[Winston]

quote:

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Originally posted by lukesabucco:
will engine degreaser and brake cleaner hurt when spraying it into the heads to try and clean some of it up.. my goal is to hopefully run the car until sept or oct, before it snows.....

---

Well, yes and no. With the that much sludge, you might as well try anything to get it off. You really should read up on ARX in the additives section.

Also, head the warnings about sludge plugging up the intake screen in your oil sump.

Take a look at some of the photos of cut open filters from ARX users. Once you start using ARX you will need to change your filter frequently. Motorcraft filters from Walmart are very good inexpensive filters.

 

[427Z06]

Well..if you're going to keep it and try to clean it, here's my $.02 given your description and pictures.

I wouldn't touch any of the crud beforehand for fear of accelerated oil pickup screen clogging.

I'd plan on a triple AutoRX treatment with extra filter changes as many have mentioned. I'd use inexpensive 5w20 to increase the flow around the engine.

Make sure you have a good way to measure and keep an eye on oil pressure so if the oil pickup screen does clog you can shut-down quick enough.

Might be worth it to have access to a bore-scope to check for oil pickup screen clogging if removing the oil pan is way to difficult.

I believe a round of RedLine at the end would do way more than any HDEO would. Frequent changes with inexpensive 5w20 may well be just as good as HDEO, IMHO. M1 seems to provide some good cleaning action too, so thats another option.

[ June 22, 2006, 04:34 PM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]

 

[Gary Allan]

Let me mirror what 427 says here. Do not score the sludge unless you intend (in whatever manner is possible- if any) to remove ALL of it at once. Once scored ..the structure of the formation is undermined and it can dislodge "en mass" (just like a mudslide) and plug any passage (oil return drain). If it makes it to the pan, it may easly disintegrate into smaller pieces that can make it to your pickup screen. Add enough solids to the base of your pan at one time ..and your pickup will just drag them in with the flow.


Frequent filter changes. If you're flush ..get a filter cutting tool and take a few snaps of them as you remove them.

Forget the "time to rebuild it" feelings. This thing ran well enough for you to buy it. This is a perfect example of lack of deposit control. Once you remove the deposits ..the thing might not be in all that bad a shape. You'll have plenty of time to figure it out once it's clean.

 

[Hirev]

quote:

---

Originally posted by 427Z06:
Well..if you're going to keep it and try to clean it, here's my $.02 given your description and pictures.

I wouldn't touch any of the crud beforehand for fear of accelerated oil pickup screen clogging.

I'd plan on a triple AutoRX treatment with extra filter changes as many have mentioned. I'd use inexpensive 5w20 to increase the flow around the engine.

Make sure you have a good way to measure and keep an eye on oil pressure so if the oil pickup screen does clog you can shut-down quick enough.

Might be worth it to have access to a bore-scope to check for oil pickup screen clogging if removing the oil pan is way to difficult.

I believe a round of RedLine at the end would do way more than any HDEO would. Frequent changes with inexpensive 5w20 may well be just as good as HDEO, IMHO. M1 seems to provide some good cleaning action too, so thats another option.

---

Every thing you said is very good advice IMO.

 

[lukesabucco]

ok sounds like a plan, with it being this bad someone said to stick to low mile runs, wont arx eat most of the chunks once it sits for awhile?

 

[427Z06]

While not as bad as yours, here's someone's documentation of AutoRX in action:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002941;p=1
http://www.rms13.com/imgal/index.php?cat=0

 

[Pablo]

Try this luke:

http://cablespeed.com/~pablomail/newoilflush.htm

 

[unDummy]

If you are going to get a new engine in the fall, don't waste too much money on that one.

Pick up a few toothbrushes and some kerosene(or any engine solvent type flush), remove the oil drainplug, start brushing and scrubbing until you get both heads cleaned up. When done, rinse the kero off with a little motor oil and button her up. Then, start a 3m oil change interval using the cheapest 5w20 oil and filters.

If you don't want to brush and scrub that engine clean, your engine is a candidate for before/after pictures with whatever product you choose.

Besides Autorx, pint doses of Marvel Mystery oil, Rislone, CD2 detergent, Lubegard ET,.....can be added to every oil change for cleaning.

As already mentioned, make sure cooling system is looked into to prevent baking of the engine, and make sure the PCV system is working to help remove blowby moisture.....

Enjoy your new project car.