First thing is to get the parts and fluid you will need for the $t65E the accumulator for the 4L60E is different. This will give you a US made filter, accumulator kit with the seals and gasket you need.
http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.com/4T65E-Shift-Kit-Combo-Kit-4T65E-SKCK.htm
Get these in case you loose one (fits 4L60E also).
http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.com/4T...m?categoryId=-1
A line clamp from Sonnax (fits 4L60E also).
http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.com/Sonnax-Lube-Tube-Retainer-Kit-84532-01K.htm?categoryId=-1
You will not need a new gasket, the original has a few uses in it.
A small roll 5/16 plastic tubing from Home depot.
Get these magnets and install them in the position indicated in this PDF .
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-29535617-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0016J3W90
16 qts of fluid (it takes around 14 IIRC) I use Amsoil ATF (not ATFL) or Supertech, these units like a little extra viscosity.
I don't use Maxlife, the company IMHO is not being accurate about the specs and the fluid is not easily visible on the stick.
Book mark this link and possibly download the pictures for future reference on how to do the accumulator kit job.
http://www.w-body.com/topic/32115-4t65e-do-it-yourself-shift-kit-instructions-and-install-guide/
Tools needed..
A 3/8 drive socket set with a 6 inch extension which includes 8, 10, 14, 15mm.
2 small flat screwdrivers.
Funnel
Hammer and old screwdriver.
Large plastic drain pan, this one works great over a normal pan.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-17892-Transmission-Drain-Pan/dp/B0002SR6WA
3 Empty plastic gallon jugs (it doesn't matter what they had in them).
Simple hand tools eg pliers and wrenches may be helpful. A small cordless 1/4 driver will make removing the pan bolts quick and easy, you will need 1/4 sockets or adapter for it.
Now all that's out of the way..
Raise the vehicle on ramps or stand if you don't have access to a lift.
On the drivers side of the engine from underneath locate the transmission line clamp and remove the bolt with a 14mm socket or wrench (it may be 15mm I forget)
Locate the lower metal line on the transmission and pull the plastic protector back then use the small screwdriver to remove the clip in the fitting, once removed pull the line straight out, make sure its O ring is still in place on the line, if not pick it out carefully for reuse.
Cut a piece of the plastic tubing long enough to go from the line you just removed into an empty bottle.
Have an assistant start the engine while you watch the fluid go into the jug, whn its almost full or you see a couple of air bubbles stop the engine. Do not replace the line at this point.
Place a large pan under the transmission pan and remove the bolts in the rear then loosen the rest so it drains into the pan.
While holding the pan remove the last couple of bolts and lower the pan down onto the drain pan, empty it and remove it for cleaning.
Pull the old filter down, you may need to help it by prying slightly, 2 or more qts of fluid are coming out so keep the pan where it is.
Remove the filter seal, a lot of people get into a little trouble here. Take an old flat blade screwdriver, place it on the metal lip of the seal nice and flat and give it a good whack to collapse it slightly. You may get a small harmless nick in the aluminum but do not drive it into it, keep the screwdriver flat and hit it inwards. It will come right out.
Drive the new filter seal in with a large socket that fits only on the metal part of the seal and hammer, tap it lightly and repeatedly till it seats home. Lube the rubber parts of it inside with ATF.
Remove the accumulator as directed in the article I gave the ling to, place it on a clean bench and install the kit.
Follow the kit instructions to the letter.
Replace the accumulator and install the line clamp per instructions with the part, once its together make 100% sure the differential lube feed tube is still connected in its clip, its a vertical line.
Install the filter.
Clean the pan thoroughly and install the magnets per the pdf, wipe the pan gasket clean and install the pan, hand snug the bolts in a cross pattern, final tightening is hand tight (not much more than snug).
Fi;ll 7 qts into the unit, get another gallon jug and have an assistant start the engine again, let fluid flow till the jug is about full and stop the engine.
Fill 4 more qts in and repeat, put 3 qts back in and leave the engine off.
Put the line clip you removed back into the fitting it came from with no line. Insure the O ring is present on the line and put it into the fitting and past the clip, you will see/feel it go past the hump in the line.
Give it atug to make sure it is seated properly and move the plastic protector back over the fitting.
Install and tighten the line clamp bolt up top on the engine and let the car down level.
Start the engine and shift it though the gears, check the fluid level, make sure it is up to the lower line on the stick.
Let the engine warm, check for leaks and fluid level, make sure there is no foam.
If its all good take it for a 20 min ride and adjust the fluid hot level.
This may sound complicated but it really isnt, once you start the job you will see how easy it is. The end results is well worth it.
If this goes good there is also a longer servo pin mode that helps prevent band breakage on this unit but that another long post.
Hope this helps.
http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.com/4T65E-Shift-Kit-Combo-Kit-4T65E-SKCK.htm
Get these in case you loose one (fits 4L60E also).
http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.com/4T...m?categoryId=-1
A line clamp from Sonnax (fits 4L60E also).
http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.com/Sonnax-Lube-Tube-Retainer-Kit-84532-01K.htm?categoryId=-1
You will not need a new gasket, the original has a few uses in it.
A small roll 5/16 plastic tubing from Home depot.
Get these magnets and install them in the position indicated in this PDF .
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-29535617-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0016J3W90
16 qts of fluid (it takes around 14 IIRC) I use Amsoil ATF (not ATFL) or Supertech, these units like a little extra viscosity.
I don't use Maxlife, the company IMHO is not being accurate about the specs and the fluid is not easily visible on the stick.
Book mark this link and possibly download the pictures for future reference on how to do the accumulator kit job.
http://www.w-body.com/topic/32115-4t65e-do-it-yourself-shift-kit-instructions-and-install-guide/
Tools needed..
A 3/8 drive socket set with a 6 inch extension which includes 8, 10, 14, 15mm.
2 small flat screwdrivers.
Funnel
Hammer and old screwdriver.
Large plastic drain pan, this one works great over a normal pan.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-17892-Transmission-Drain-Pan/dp/B0002SR6WA
3 Empty plastic gallon jugs (it doesn't matter what they had in them).
Simple hand tools eg pliers and wrenches may be helpful. A small cordless 1/4 driver will make removing the pan bolts quick and easy, you will need 1/4 sockets or adapter for it.
Now all that's out of the way..
Raise the vehicle on ramps or stand if you don't have access to a lift.
On the drivers side of the engine from underneath locate the transmission line clamp and remove the bolt with a 14mm socket or wrench (it may be 15mm I forget)
Locate the lower metal line on the transmission and pull the plastic protector back then use the small screwdriver to remove the clip in the fitting, once removed pull the line straight out, make sure its O ring is still in place on the line, if not pick it out carefully for reuse.
Cut a piece of the plastic tubing long enough to go from the line you just removed into an empty bottle.
Have an assistant start the engine while you watch the fluid go into the jug, whn its almost full or you see a couple of air bubbles stop the engine. Do not replace the line at this point.
Place a large pan under the transmission pan and remove the bolts in the rear then loosen the rest so it drains into the pan.
While holding the pan remove the last couple of bolts and lower the pan down onto the drain pan, empty it and remove it for cleaning.
Pull the old filter down, you may need to help it by prying slightly, 2 or more qts of fluid are coming out so keep the pan where it is.
Remove the filter seal, a lot of people get into a little trouble here. Take an old flat blade screwdriver, place it on the metal lip of the seal nice and flat and give it a good whack to collapse it slightly. You may get a small harmless nick in the aluminum but do not drive it into it, keep the screwdriver flat and hit it inwards. It will come right out.
Drive the new filter seal in with a large socket that fits only on the metal part of the seal and hammer, tap it lightly and repeatedly till it seats home. Lube the rubber parts of it inside with ATF.
Remove the accumulator as directed in the article I gave the ling to, place it on a clean bench and install the kit.
Follow the kit instructions to the letter.
Replace the accumulator and install the line clamp per instructions with the part, once its together make 100% sure the differential lube feed tube is still connected in its clip, its a vertical line.
Install the filter.
Clean the pan thoroughly and install the magnets per the pdf, wipe the pan gasket clean and install the pan, hand snug the bolts in a cross pattern, final tightening is hand tight (not much more than snug).
Fi;ll 7 qts into the unit, get another gallon jug and have an assistant start the engine again, let fluid flow till the jug is about full and stop the engine.
Fill 4 more qts in and repeat, put 3 qts back in and leave the engine off.
Put the line clip you removed back into the fitting it came from with no line. Insure the O ring is present on the line and put it into the fitting and past the clip, you will see/feel it go past the hump in the line.
Give it atug to make sure it is seated properly and move the plastic protector back over the fitting.
Install and tighten the line clamp bolt up top on the engine and let the car down level.
Start the engine and shift it though the gears, check the fluid level, make sure it is up to the lower line on the stick.
Let the engine warm, check for leaks and fluid level, make sure there is no foam.
If its all good take it for a 20 min ride and adjust the fluid hot level.
This may sound complicated but it really isnt, once you start the job you will see how easy it is. The end results is well worth it.
If this goes good there is also a longer servo pin mode that helps prevent band breakage on this unit but that another long post.
Hope this helps.
