The 1300 code may have or may not have set the 300 code. But the 300 code would unlikely set the 1300. I think you need to follow the 1300 code diagnostics. It sounds like your injectors may be dirty also. Sometimes they have to be cleaned at the fuel rail. Sometimes that won't even get them cleaned and they have to be cleaned off the car or replaced. GM has an injector pressure drop test, not sure about toyotas.
P1300 and P0300
- Thread starter parimento1
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It is a 97 Avalon
I did follow the procedure for the diagnostics as per the Toyota manual, even swapped the computers, but to no avail. This is only for the P1300 code, as the 0300 was a one time thing I see. For P1300, as per the Toyota manual, it say nothing about fuel injectors or the fuel system, but if Justin's dad said it can throw that CEL I will check them.
Originally Posted By: parimento1
I did follow the procedure for the diagnostics as per the Toyota manual, even swapped the computers, but to no avail. This is only for the P1300 code, as the 0300 was a one time thing I see. For P1300, as per the Toyota manual, it say nothing about fuel injectors or the fuel system, but if Justin's dad said it can throw that CEL I will check them.
When I took a quick look at the P1300 diagnostic chart it indicated a problem in the reference signal wiring as I recall. You need to check that wiring and what all it tells you to do. The P1300 could cause a misfire. It would be an ignition misfire probably (I would have to look at the chart again and see if the circuit times the injectors too though). A misfire code could be injector or ignition related, the computer can't distinquish the difference.
I did follow the procedure for the diagnostics as per the Toyota manual, even swapped the computers, but to no avail. This is only for the P1300 code, as the 0300 was a one time thing I see. For P1300, as per the Toyota manual, it say nothing about fuel injectors or the fuel system, but if Justin's dad said it can throw that CEL I will check them.
When I took a quick look at the P1300 diagnostic chart it indicated a problem in the reference signal wiring as I recall. You need to check that wiring and what all it tells you to do. The P1300 could cause a misfire. It would be an ignition misfire probably (I would have to look at the chart again and see if the circuit times the injectors too though). A misfire code could be injector or ignition related, the computer can't distinquish the difference.
I looked at the igniter wiring and underneath it, if you twisted the wires, was an exposed wire whose insulation had rubbed off. So I wrapped it with electrical tape, but no difference, after a few on/off cycles, the light came on again and did not go off until I warmed up the car, turned it off, then turned it back on again. It is very hard to get the light to come on when it is at operating temp, but when it is cold it is almost a sure thing. As far as the other wiring, I checked all the exposed wiring. The ones that are sheathed I do not want to touch, as it is a major PITA to unwrap them and might create more headaches. But I checked the wires at the both the computer connector and at the igniter, as well as at the coils, and all except for that one wire at the igniter looked good as new.
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JustinC, any news from your dad about a TSB or anything?
Ok I talked to dad, and he said that it is usually coils or plugs that cause this issue. These engines are very sensitive as to what plugs are used. They only run right on Denso, or NGK plugs.
Denso being prefered. What plugs did you install ?
These use a special twin tipped double platinum plug, due to the waste spark design. Also what brand coils did you use ?
Did you use Toyota, or aftermarket coils ?
Denso being prefered. What plugs did you install ?
These use a special twin tipped double platinum plug, due to the waste spark design. Also what brand coils did you use ?
Did you use Toyota, or aftermarket coils ?
Originally Posted By: parimento1
I looked at the igniter wiring and underneath it, if you twisted the wires, was an exposed wire whose insulation had rubbed off. So I wrapped it with electrical tape, but no difference, after a few on/off cycles, the light came on again and did not go off until I warmed up the car, turned it off, then turned it back on again. It is very hard to get the light to come on when it is at operating temp, but when it is cold it is almost a sure thing. As far as the other wiring, I checked all the exposed wiring. The ones that are sheathed I do not want to touch, as it is a major PITA to unwrap them and might create more headaches. But I checked the wires at the both the computer connector and at the igniter, as well as at the coils, and all except for that one wire at the igniter looked good as new.
This does sound like it was contributing to your problem. It may not be the only thing, but if it was tripping a p1300 igniter code, and some of the insulation on the wire rubbed off, it could have been shorting to ground.
I'd try a couple things. First I'd get a bottle of the Genuine Toyota EFI Cleaner. This stuff is the most potent fuel injector cleaner I've ever seen. Even better than Techron. We once had a parts van at work that was not running well due to clogged injectors. We ran this stuff and in 10 minutes it was running like new. It comes in a small black bottle (New package), or a small silver can (old package)
It's only a couple of bucks, and is available at you local Toyota dealer. Next clear the code, and drive it. You may even want to wipe everything, by removing both battery terminals, and touching them together for 10-15 seconds. This will discharge the capacitors in the computer and wipe it's memory. This way you can start from scratch. Let us know if it comes back.
Justin
I looked at the igniter wiring and underneath it, if you twisted the wires, was an exposed wire whose insulation had rubbed off. So I wrapped it with electrical tape, but no difference, after a few on/off cycles, the light came on again and did not go off until I warmed up the car, turned it off, then turned it back on again. It is very hard to get the light to come on when it is at operating temp, but when it is cold it is almost a sure thing. As far as the other wiring, I checked all the exposed wiring. The ones that are sheathed I do not want to touch, as it is a major PITA to unwrap them and might create more headaches. But I checked the wires at the both the computer connector and at the igniter, as well as at the coils, and all except for that one wire at the igniter looked good as new.
This does sound like it was contributing to your problem. It may not be the only thing, but if it was tripping a p1300 igniter code, and some of the insulation on the wire rubbed off, it could have been shorting to ground.
I'd try a couple things. First I'd get a bottle of the Genuine Toyota EFI Cleaner. This stuff is the most potent fuel injector cleaner I've ever seen. Even better than Techron. We once had a parts van at work that was not running well due to clogged injectors. We ran this stuff and in 10 minutes it was running like new. It comes in a small black bottle (New package), or a small silver can (old package)
It's only a couple of bucks, and is available at you local Toyota dealer. Next clear the code, and drive it. You may even want to wipe everything, by removing both battery terminals, and touching them together for 10-15 seconds. This will discharge the capacitors in the computer and wipe it's memory. This way you can start from scratch. Let us know if it comes back.
Justin
I bought single electrode spark plugs (even though I know it needs double because it is waste-spark) because I did not want to spend $12 per plug to not solve the problem. They are NGKs though. I changed all 3 coils, one was dealer, the other 2 are aftermarket. NO CHANGE at all. Last night I read a TSB for a Toyota Corolla the symptoms were P1300 and intermittent battery discharge where sometimes the battery would be dead after sitting overnight and the battery and alt test-out fine. My battery randomly goes dead every so often for no apparent reason- no dome light on or door open, or anything of that sort. The TSB said to check the starter cable and battery cable for melting/shorts. I checked those two cable by pulling them out of the conduit they are in and then put them back, they looked as good as new. Any ideas? I do not know if the single electrode spark plugs are a big deal...I assume not as they were specified for the car, or if the aftermarket ignition coils are.
Originally Posted By: parimento1
I bought single electrode spark plugs (even though I know it needs double because it is waste-spark) because I did not want to spend $12 per plug to not solve the problem. They are NGKs though. I changed all 3 coils, one was dealer, the other 2 are aftermarket. NO CHANGE at all. Last night I read a TSB for a Toyota Corolla the symptoms were P1300 and intermittent battery discharge where sometimes the battery would be dead after sitting overnight and the battery and alt test-out fine. My battery randomly goes dead every so often for no apparent reason- no dome light on or door open, or anything of that sort. The TSB said to check the starter cable and battery cable for melting/shorts. I checked those two cable by pulling them out of the conduit they are in and then put them back, they looked as good as new. Any ideas? I do not know if the single electrode spark plugs are a big deal...I assume not as they were specified for the car, or if the aftermarket ignition coils are.
I can't speak for how picky Toyota igniters are for plug type, but the dual electrode has nothing to do with the wasted spark. GM had used the wasted spark ign with regular single electrode plugs for years with no problems.
I don't think that your problem is in the secondaries (Coil, wires and plus). The diagnostic chart for this code says the problem is a spark verification problem and to check the wiring between the igniter and the PCM, or a problem with the PCM or igniter itself.
You found a problem with the wiring. I think you need to go through all the voltage and resistance tests in the diagnostic chart on the harness. You got a tough interminent problem looks like.
I think Justin suggestion aboout getting the Toyota injector cleaner is a good idea. You did get a misfire code too, it might help some.
I bought single electrode spark plugs (even though I know it needs double because it is waste-spark) because I did not want to spend $12 per plug to not solve the problem. They are NGKs though. I changed all 3 coils, one was dealer, the other 2 are aftermarket. NO CHANGE at all. Last night I read a TSB for a Toyota Corolla the symptoms were P1300 and intermittent battery discharge where sometimes the battery would be dead after sitting overnight and the battery and alt test-out fine. My battery randomly goes dead every so often for no apparent reason- no dome light on or door open, or anything of that sort. The TSB said to check the starter cable and battery cable for melting/shorts. I checked those two cable by pulling them out of the conduit they are in and then put them back, they looked as good as new. Any ideas? I do not know if the single electrode spark plugs are a big deal...I assume not as they were specified for the car, or if the aftermarket ignition coils are.
I can't speak for how picky Toyota igniters are for plug type, but the dual electrode has nothing to do with the wasted spark. GM had used the wasted spark ign with regular single electrode plugs for years with no problems.
I don't think that your problem is in the secondaries (Coil, wires and plus). The diagnostic chart for this code says the problem is a spark verification problem and to check the wiring between the igniter and the PCM, or a problem with the PCM or igniter itself.
You found a problem with the wiring. I think you need to go through all the voltage and resistance tests in the diagnostic chart on the harness. You got a tough interminent problem looks like.
I think Justin suggestion aboout getting the Toyota injector cleaner is a good idea. You did get a misfire code too, it might help some.
Yea the only problem is that the diagnostic chart and values that I have are not for the waste-spark, but for the system with the 6 indiv coils.
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The charts I supplied in this thread, and by email are for the 3 coil DIS system.
Toyota uses the dual electrode plugs with the DIS system for longer service life. Because of the waste spark, single electrode plugs are only good for 30k in this application. Hence the double electrode plugs. The correct plugs for this application are available from rockauto for $6.17 each. But the NGK's should be fine for now. I just wanted to make sure that you didn't use Bosch, Champion, or Autolite, As Toyota's don't like these, and they tend to trip misfire codes.
Toyota uses the dual electrode plugs with the DIS system for longer service life. Because of the waste spark, single electrode plugs are only good for 30k in this application. Hence the double electrode plugs. The correct plugs for this application are available from rockauto for $6.17 each. But the NGK's should be fine for now. I just wanted to make sure that you didn't use Bosch, Champion, or Autolite, As Toyota's don't like these, and they tend to trip misfire codes.
SO, I just got back, I took out the glove box and went thru the flowchart step by step and everythng except one of the IGT circuit (IGT 1) check out fine.
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However, I just wanted to inform you guys that I have tried swapping ECUs in the past and it threw the same code almost immediately. I do not want to swap it again, as taking out the ECU is very annoying. After I put everything back together and started the car, the check engine light was on and was blinking for about 10 secs, then stopped and stayed on steady. I cleared the codes and restarted it and all was well. No idea whats going on and I assume if it is the ECU that the car wouldn't start at all.
I will try and see where it leads to, its is a rats nest of wires...If the ECU were bad, am I right in my assumption that the car would not start?
An ECU can go bad and the car can still run but have issues... Highly unlikely the ECU in that car. I would think it's something to do with the ignition system wiring and/or coils/modules associated with the ignition system.
In all the cars I have serviced none are picky about wires/plugs unless they had some underlying problem making it seem that way.
JME.
Good Luck
In all the cars I have serviced none are picky about wires/plugs unless they had some underlying problem making it seem that way.
JME.
Good Luck
Single electrode spark plugs?
So I went into the steering column tonight to check the ignition wires. Someone spliced into them a long time ago for the alarm I believe and wanted to see if there may be a short or if they cut the wires. Wires looked fine, underneath the electrical tape. I also took off the connector and cleaned it, jiggled it around and inserted it, to insure a good connection. CEL came on again shortly thereafter. I think I am just about done trying to find the problem. I guess when it actually starts misfiring badly I will find out where it is coming from.
Mechtech- single electrode
Mechtech- single electrode
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