It must say residue free. It likely is, but there is more than one type of electrical contact cleaner.
P0172 Running rich
- Thread starter slybunda
- Start date
From it's product info I got this:
Holts Electrical Contact Cleaner quickly removes oil, grease and dirt to restore electrical connectivity in your car without causing damage. This electronic cleaner spray is quick to dry and leaves no sticky or oily residue. Supplied in a 500ml aerosol with 360° spray, you can use it upside down to reach those hard-to-access areas.
• Powerful cleaning action – removes oil, grease and dirt
• Effective – restores electrical connectivity in your car
• 360° spray – works upside down for hard-to-reach areas
• Quick to dry – leaves no sticky or oily residue behind
Holts Electrical Contact Cleaner quickly removes oil, grease and dirt to restore electrical connectivity in your car without causing damage. This electronic cleaner spray is quick to dry and leaves no sticky or oily residue. Supplied in a 500ml aerosol with 360° spray, you can use it upside down to reach those hard-to-access areas.
• Powerful cleaning action – removes oil, grease and dirt
• Effective – restores electrical connectivity in your car
• 360° spray – works upside down for hard-to-reach areas
• Quick to dry – leaves no sticky or oily residue behind
Just an update with some more observations from the OBD2 reader.
Warmed up and parked at idle I see LTFT of -30
This fuel cut drops down as i rev it up, at 3300rpm it's at -10.4 and hold at that value at a flat line as I revved up to 4500rpm.
So it seems it needs to cut more fuel at idle than at higher revs.
What could cause this?
Odd thing is it starts and drives perfectly with no misfiring or hesitation.
Too much fuel at lower revs or not enough air?
Warmed up and parked at idle I see LTFT of -30
This fuel cut drops down as i rev it up, at 3300rpm it's at -10.4 and hold at that value at a flat line as I revved up to 4500rpm.
So it seems it needs to cut more fuel at idle than at higher revs.
What could cause this?
Odd thing is it starts and drives perfectly with no misfiring or hesitation.
Too much fuel at lower revs or not enough air?
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Yea although I don't see the symptoms of over fuelling.
Iv been told an injector leak would result in fuel pressure loss overnight and difficult starting but my car starts up with no more than 2 seconds of cranking, that's the same behaviour it's had since I bought it 13 years ago.
Maybe sticking injectors? One that's lazy when closing? Dunno if that is even a thing.
Or something with the intake side where it thinks it's pulling in more air than it actually is?
Got maf cleaner coming will clean it up on weekend and maybe throw in a new air filter.
Although iv got an original Toyota air filter it's done less than 20k miles on it but I think it may be 8 years old, I'm gonna need to double check my receipts for when I last changed it.
Doubt a air filter can cause this issue since it sits before the maf and if there was a restriction the maf would see it and report the lower air flow.. at least that's how I think it works, owners manual says the filter is good for 50k miles so I'd have thought there's plenty of life left in it.
Iv been told an injector leak would result in fuel pressure loss overnight and difficult starting but my car starts up with no more than 2 seconds of cranking, that's the same behaviour it's had since I bought it 13 years ago.
Maybe sticking injectors? One that's lazy when closing? Dunno if that is even a thing.
Or something with the intake side where it thinks it's pulling in more air than it actually is?
Got maf cleaner coming will clean it up on weekend and maybe throw in a new air filter.
Although iv got an original Toyota air filter it's done less than 20k miles on it but I think it may be 8 years old, I'm gonna need to double check my receipts for when I last changed it.
Doubt a air filter can cause this issue since it sits before the maf and if there was a restriction the maf would see it and report the lower air flow.. at least that's how I think it works, owners manual says the filter is good for 50k miles so I'd have thought there's plenty of life left in it.
With engine off I notice I got a mad reading of 0.76g/s is this normal? I'd have thought it should be 0.
Also my throttle position sensor readings when pedal is pressed all the way down it's at 77.3 and when I don't touch the pedal its at 11, this is all while engine is off.
Normal or something wrong?
Also my throttle position sensor readings when pedal is pressed all the way down it's at 77.3 and when I don't touch the pedal its at 11, this is all while engine is off.
Normal or something wrong?
Your not going to see over-fueling because the ECU is taking up to 29% of the fuel designation away - that is the entire point of closed loop. You can't diagnose a closed loop controlled system by the old ways - something even a lot of "pro's" seem to not understand still.
So its getting too much fuel. In no particular order - and the route I would take:
Clean MAF, or maybe even replace. Yes, the wire might be there, but maybe the thermistor isn't working properly, or the current measure. It happens.
Primary A/F sensor. I still think there is a good chance this is your problem. I know you like to believe its "looks good" but its needing the most fuel trim adjustment at idle. When the thin elements get dirty or go haywire you would see that most pronounced at idle when it has the least flow.
Could also be a leaky injector. How hard is it to pull the plugs? Its likely only one injector - so likely one plug is heavily fouled and the rest are lean if this is the case.
Yes can pull the plugs easy to take a look, just need a day it's not raining on to take a looks it.
Maf cleaner arrived today so will clean out on Saturday and check the readings.
Primary A/F sensor is this the lambda oxygen sensor pre cat on exhaust?
Maf cleaner arrived today so will clean out on Saturday and check the readings.
Primary A/F sensor is this the lambda oxygen sensor pre cat on exhaust?
Yes, do check your spark plugs. My 1998 CRV became a gas thirsty beast last month. Other than that, everything else was normal - start up, power, engine smoothness, etc. No CEL. First thing I did was pull the spark plugs. All 4 were very very sooty, but no oily character. Surely, I said to myself, all 4 (original to the car) injectors can't go bad at the same time. The center electrodes still had sharp, squarish edges but the gaps all looked bigger than normal. Sure enough, they were at 0.052" with my feeler gauge. This, on new original Denso copper spark plugs I got from the dealer which I measured at the factory spec 0.043" before I installed them myself 6500 miles ago.
I cleaned them with a brass brush, and regapped to 0.043". As an experiment, I returned two of them to the engine and used new copper plugs for the other two cylinders. After 500 miles, I noted the gas mileage was back to normal. I pulled the plugs again, and saw the two new plugs still had white porcelain insulator! The other old two had grey (not tan) insulators. Because the engine had run rich, I changed the oil the next week. (It was almost due anyway.)
Checking the owner's manual, it recommends checking the plugs every 6000 miles. I had forgotten about this totally, because the previous 2 sets of plugs I had in there were long life platinums and I had gotten complacent.
I cleaned them with a brass brush, and regapped to 0.043". As an experiment, I returned two of them to the engine and used new copper plugs for the other two cylinders. After 500 miles, I noted the gas mileage was back to normal. I pulled the plugs again, and saw the two new plugs still had white porcelain insulator! The other old two had grey (not tan) insulators. Because the engine had run rich, I changed the oil the next week. (It was almost due anyway.)
Checking the owner's manual, it recommends checking the plugs every 6000 miles. I had forgotten about this totally, because the previous 2 sets of plugs I had in there were long life platinums and I had gotten complacent.
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Iv.got iridium plugs on the car, denso ik20 and they done around 18-20k miles on them.
Whatever you pull out should be the one you install. It should be laser etched on the O2 sensor along with the Toyota logo.
They should still be good. Denso says their IK20L plugs have service life of 30K miles.
Odd I thought iridium plugs lasted for 80k+ miles?
Yes, the engine runs in the open loop mode. The engine computer relies upon the signals from the pre-cat oxygen sensor to determine air/fuel mixture.
