Oxidation Problem?

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Yep...

bfac011a-f1b2-4936-b0a6-a1b802cc8e90 by thecritic89, on Flickr

The left side was before, the right side was after.

This picture is from a black '99 Subie Impreza. As far as I can tell, this car had the original paint.

There was heavy oxidation and water etchings. The neighbor just wanted an improvement in the appearance, so there was no point in going after the water etchings (which would have required wet-sanding).

The above picture was a test spot that was done to determine the best machine/pad/product combo. I was teaching the neighbor how to do this himself.

In this picture:

Compound was Menzerna FG400/Buff & Shine Orange Light Cutting Foam
Final Polish was Menzerna SF4000/Buff & Shine Green Polishing Foam

(Later on, in some areas, we had to step up to Meguiars M101/Buff & Shine Yellow Cutting Foam)

The machine used was the Rupes LHR12E Duetto.

Here's an interesting one for you guys: I tried using my Rupes LHR21ES, but the machine started to heat up the paint very quickly. After one pass, the paint became extremely warm. I experienced the same result with both a Buff & Shine Orange Pad and a Meguiars MF cutting disc.

For some reason, the heat really brought on the "sticky paint syndrome" that Subies are known for -- the FG400 became nearly impossible to remove. My guess is that the large 21mm stroke of the LHR21ES was the cause of the heat?

There was no trouble at all with the Duetto -- so it became the machine of choice for the rest of the car. With the Duetto, the FG400 was wiping off fairly easily and I was still getting the correction that I needed. Weird, eh?
 
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Not weird at all, the rougher the paint condition is the more friction is generated when the polish runs over it. This would be exacerbated by a long stroke polisher like the Rupes. And that excess heat translates into the forcing the lighter solvents of FG400 into the paint causing sticking. Shorter stroke polishers generate less heat, hence why switching to a shorter stroke you didn't overheat the paint and like I predicted before you'd be able to wipe off. If Richard Lin hasn't realized this yet he needs to expand his repertoire with different polishes and polish techniques.

It's at this point I would have used a rotary and wool as it keeps the paint cooler. It also has enough leveling power to actually take care of the etchings and not chase down defects.
 
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