Overheating after new coolant expansion tank installed

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459
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United States
At this point I’d say adapt a universal exp tank with matching pressure cap? That or try another aftermarket supplier, it can’t be that hard to find a good tank.
 

Astro14

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Something doesn’t jive with all this. Coolant in an unpressurized system should boil over at 212F, and the OP stated there have been no boil overs. So the coolant must not be getting above 212F, which is hotter than it should be running, yes, but hardly an overheat situation.

I‘m not saying there isn’t a problem somewhere, but if it won’t get over 212F, it’s a minor annoyance at best right now. Something to be diagnosed for sure, but not something to keep one awake at night IMHO.

Well, not exactly.

Plain water will boil at 212, at sea level atmospheric pressure.

One of the reasons to mix plain water with glycol is to raise the boiling point. Lowering the freezing point is the biggest reason to mix, of course, but mixing raises the boiling point, too.
 
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567
Location
Daytona Beach
A lot of coolant flows through it, it holds about a liter of coolant, the coolant comes in from the thermostat housing and out to the lower rad hose.
This doesn't sound right to me. If the coolant is flowing through the tank BEFORE the engine heats up, then the thermostat is probably open. But I don't really know this system design. Most rads flow into the TOP of the RAD, then out the bottom of the rad and back into the engine via the water pump. Is the belt routing correct?
 

FordCapriDriver

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Balearic Islands , Spain
This doesn't sound right to me. If the coolant is flowing through the tank BEFORE the engine heats up, then the thermostat is probably open. But I don't really know this system design. Most rads flow into the TOP of the RAD, then out the bottom of the rad and back into the engine via the water pump. Is the belt routing correct?

See the pic i posted, the radiator doesn't have a cap, the cap is on the tank.
Next to the distributor is the thermostat housing.
The small one you see on the top of the housing is the one that runs along the top of the radiator to the tank.
Ofcourse the coolant runs out of the engine out the top and the water pump is on the left side.
The lower hose on the tank is "branched" to the lower radiator hose which goes ithe water pump.
 
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down in the park
Something doesn’t jive with all this. Coolant in an unpressurized system should boil over at 212F, and the OP stated there have been no boil overs. So the coolant must not be getting above 212F, which is hotter than it should be running, yes, but hardly an overheat situation.

I‘m not saying there isn’t a problem somewhere, but if it won’t get over 212F, it’s a minor annoyance at best right now. Something to be diagnosed for sure, but not something to keep one awake at night IMHO.

only if it uses 100% water for coolant. With a 50/50 mix of coolant and water the boiling temp is raised substantially.
 

FordCapriDriver

Thread starter
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Balearic Islands , Spain
An update by the way, today i went again for a spin with it ( about an hour ) , i don't know if maybe it's because it's cooled down a lot in the last few days but it did not seem to be running too hot at all, temp gauge did not go above the middle.
 
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9,031
Location
Marshfield , MA
Try fitting a known good expansion tank. I understand that you want to keep the car original,but... UPDATE . In light of latest post. Don't do anything. It burped. :cool:
 
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