Over Torqued Oil Filter

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Just finished changing the oil for the first time on my '10 Subaru Forester, sort of. Two things. First, I got three free oil changes from the dealer with the purchase. I used one and the oil filter was over torqued. I fractured the cap type filter wrench. The drain bolt did not see a torque wrench in the oil change either, but my wrench was made of sterner stuff. My question is, can I now change the filter with the sump full of oil? I assume so, but have never tried it before.

Second, I installed a fumoto valve. In all the pictures I've seen, the part of the valve that actually houses the ball valve mechanism sits at the 12 o'clock position. On my Forester it sits at the 5 o'clock position. Is that a concern?
 
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Sounds like your fumoto and mine sit at the same angle. You can't tighten it but so much, so when it's tight - that's it. You'd have to try preeeety hard to break one of those things off and/or have something accidentally open it.

And yes, you can change the filter with a sump full of oil. Some oil will come out, so have some oil on hand to put back in.

And the Fumoto on my car is nearly useless because it takes so long to get the undertray off. I guess it's nice that my oil changes only require a straight-head screwdriver and a 12mm socket, though... And I don't have to worry about stripping the pan threads out.
 
I find that oil filter pliers are the best type to loosen over-torqued filters. You can get these at Harbor Freight for about $5 or a little more at Walmart and Auto Parts stores.

Filter_Wrench.jpg
 
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I've had an oil filter on so tight that I have had to squeeze the handles shut on a set of these with channelocks while the oil filter pliers are squeezing the filter to get the filter off. How stupid is that?
 
Would using a crush washer between the Fumoto valve and the oil pan help in changing the orientation of the valve? I'm thinking the fraction of an inch that the valve would be pushed away from the pan might be enough to have the threads "stop" the valve position at a different place. Plus, if the crush washer is of the right softness it mighty give you enough freedom to stop with the valve oriented as you like but seal well enough, too.

Just a thought.
(I hope I expressed it clearly.)
 
For our Forester, I bought a wrench from Sears that tightens around the filter as you turn it counter clockwise with a ratchet handle and extension.
Works great, and got the original filter loose without issue.
That is probably what you need.
Cap wrenches are not all that useful, in my experience, and the pliers type wrench pictured above ain't gonna work on your Subie, as you already know.
 
I like some cap wrenches but, they must be study and fit without slop. The cheap stamped light gage steel ones are usless in many applications.
 
A crush washer may fix you drain valve problem.

Guys used to do this [a variant] to spark plugs to orient them.

Changing your oil filter withe the sump full or empty makes no difference.

You can also ram a big screwdriver through the filter [sideways through both sides ] and use it as you turning device.
 
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