Original Dex Cool or newer Prestone Platinum

I personally stick to OEM coolant and automatic transmission fluid.

I use improved aftermarket synthetics in engine, manual transmission, dot 3 brake fluid, and import power steering.

I had a couple Ford vehicles in my past and both had cooling systems full of sludge that I could never remove completely.- and I can only assume is was from lack of upkeep and using what ever coolant was on hand.

Im not saying aftermarket coolant is bad. On an older vehicle as long as it's all the same coolant and up the spec I would feel good using it.
On the H/K's I will only use oem coolant no matter what. I drained out the original coolant when I replaced the t-stat and it looked like I could have reused the coolant!!
 
Is there a way to identify what type coolant is in there?

I have a cottage in northern Mi that's heated by a boiler & finned tube baseboards. It's filled with what looks like automotive antifreeze and I'd call it "green". Propylene glycol is usually what's recommended but I've looked at several data sheets and the color can range from clear to green to red--depending on the mfr.

There's no label on the boiler.
 
Is there a way to identify what type coolant is in there?

I have a cottage in northern Mi that's heated by a boiler & finned tube baseboards. It's filled with what looks like automotive antifreeze and I'd call it "green". Propylene glycol is usually what's recommended but I've looked at several data sheets and the color can range from clear to green to red--depending on the mfr.

There's no label on the boiler.
Not really unless you have access to a lab and the equipment to do a GCS test. There is no generally accepted color but “distinctive” per ASTM standards.

Typically, propylene glycol RV/waterline antifreeze is pink, but there was a recall for mis-tinted EG from Prestone recently.
 
I think this comes up every couple of years.
I have a 1997 K1500 (Vortec 350), 2000 Trans Am WS6 (LS1), 2005 Buick Lacrosse (3800), 2014 Caprice (6.0), 2015 Malibu (2.0 T) and a 2017 Chevy 1 ton (6.0)
I did the intake gaskets on the Truck and Buick. Everything else is dry intake. I run Dex-Cool or licensed Dex-Cool in everything with no issues. By now everything is an updated formula, and the LS based and anything not 5.7, 454, 3.1, 3.4, 3800 or 4.3 does not have the problem. Once you get the updated metal gaskets in the engines I mentioned you will be fine.
 
I think this comes up every couple of years.
I have a 1997 K1500 (Vortec 350), 2000 Trans Am WS6 (LS1), 2005 Buick Lacrosse (3800), 2014 Caprice (6.0), 2015 Malibu (2.0 T) and a 2017 Chevy 1 ton (6.0)
I did the intake gaskets on the Truck and Buick. Everything else is dry intake. I run Dex-Cool or licensed Dex-Cool in everything with no issues. By now everything is an updated formula, and the LS based and anything not 5.7, 454, 3.1, 3.4, 3800 or 4.3 does not have the problem. Once you get the updated metal gaskets in the engines I mentioned you will be fine.

It certainly does, years ago my Moms well now my dads 2nd hand 1998 Chevrolet Monte Carlo had the intake gaskets replaced that caused this issue. Well I guess when this job was done that not all of the old coolant was flushed out.

Before we carry on the coolant for this vehicle called for a coolant change every 5 years or 150,000 miles, well my Dad went for the 150K thing instead of the 5 years. At this time the car has about 145K and it had a water pump replacement 10 years ago. So I pop off the radiator cap and see the brown junk. My point is do the 5 year thing and not the mileage thing. I ended up taking the thermostat out and on a very warm day, I took the upper radiator hose off and aimed it towards a 5 gallon bucket and added about 4 to 5 gallons of distilled water until everything was clear. So I was basically running the engine until everything was clear. I was adding distilled water into the radiator and I figured this was better than flushing with tap water since distilled water is like a dollar a gallon.

What is odd, well maybe not that odd, is that I still have the 5 gallon bucket of old coolant with the dex a cool sludge and there is not much of the brown junk.
 
Clean drinkable water,,,,interesting
Prestone put a line saying distilled water is best for Cor-Guard.

Dex-Cool/Clone isn’t sensitive to water quality as a pHOAT or green silicated coolant. Phosphates do a good job sequestering minerals from hard water - which is why the Europeans don’t use phosphated coolants(but VW is now, it’s a premix though).
 
Is there a way to identify what type coolant is in there?

I have a cottage in northern Mi that's heated by a boiler & finned tube baseboards. It's filled with what looks like automotive antifreeze and I'd call it "green". Propylene glycol is usually what's recommended but I've looked at several data sheets and the color can range from clear to green to red--depending on the mfr.

There's no label on the boiler.
I'm sure one of the automotive fluid testing labs could give you an answer. My concern with Ethylene Glycol would be if there is a "side tank" used to have the boiler either heat or preheat domestic hot water. You would not want to risk cross contamination with potable water in the the event of a heat exchanger failure. Ethylene Glycol is toxic. Propylene Glycol isn't. It will be cheaper to use the proper fluid than risk having to buy a kidney. Or worse....
 
No worries there. The hydronic heat is a closed system and isn't used to heat drinking water.
 
Back
Top