Ill be replacing the A/C compressor in my grand prix pretty soon, and i know its a recommended to replace the accumulator whenever you replace a compressor. Thats no problem, they both look pretty simple to get to. The orifice tube on the other hand, looks like a bear to get to. Just wondering how important replacing the orifice tube with the compressor is?
orifice tube with compressor?
- Thread starter Jakegday
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It depends, why is the compressor being replaced?
If it broke apart, or if you suspect any debris in the system, you'll want to replace the orifice tube. You could try cleaning/servicing it, but I wouldn't suggest it.
If it broke apart, or if you suspect any debris in the system, you'll want to replace the orifice tube. You could try cleaning/servicing it, but I wouldn't suggest it.
Unless the compressor is being replaced due to a refrigerant leak located in the compressor itself (i.e. body casing leak, shaft seal leak, etc.) or it is being replaced due to a worn out clutch (really a separate component) or a bad clutch coil (really a separate component) then you should DEFINITELY at least clean, if not replace the orifice tube - they are almost always replaced rather than cleaned, due to the fact that they only cost about $2-3 typically.
In other words, if the compressor wore out (no longer can pump a sufficient compression ratio between high & low sides to effectively cool) or has locked up or has had a "burnout", then cleaning/replacing the orifice tune is not optional!
Be sure and use the exact same size (color coded) orifice tube as the one that is specified by the vehicle manufacturer!
PS - for all you guys that drive imports and other vehicles that use an expansion valve/dryer system, rather than an orifice tube/accumulator system, all of the previous advice holds true, just substitute "expansion valve" for 'orifice tube" and all will still be correct except that expansion valves cannot be effectively cleaned, and they don't cost $2 for the part - lol
cheers!
wild bill
the BiTOG A/C expert
In other words, if the compressor wore out (no longer can pump a sufficient compression ratio between high & low sides to effectively cool) or has locked up or has had a "burnout", then cleaning/replacing the orifice tune is not optional!
Be sure and use the exact same size (color coded) orifice tube as the one that is specified by the vehicle manufacturer!
PS - for all you guys that drive imports and other vehicles that use an expansion valve/dryer system, rather than an orifice tube/accumulator system, all of the previous advice holds true, just substitute "expansion valve" for 'orifice tube" and all will still be correct except that expansion valves cannot be effectively cleaned, and they don't cost $2 for the part - lol
cheers!
wild bill
the BiTOG A/C expert
The compressor performs great, the a/c is still ice cold. However its developed a loud moan and a vibration at 1300ish rpms.
Originally Posted By: Jakegday
The compressor performs great, the a/c is still ice cold. However its developed a loud moan and a vibration at 1300ish rpms.
sounds like a bad bearing, your orifice tube is likely just fine
The compressor performs great, the a/c is still ice cold. However its developed a loud moan and a vibration at 1300ish rpms.
sounds like a bad bearing, your orifice tube is likely just fine
A lot of the compressor warranties also require proof of orifice replacement and system flush. It's still a pretty tough gig to get warranty resolution if you purchase on-line (think Four Seasons, etc)
I agree though that it's doubtful anything is wrong with the orifice if it was cooling good.
I agree though that it's doubtful anything is wrong with the orifice if it was cooling good.
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I used to keep a dirty orifice tube at the store to show people just how much garbage they collect. Do yourself a favor, change it, they cost so little. Most manufacturers of A\C Compressors want to see paperwork showing that the system was flushed correctly and certain other components were replaced at the same time or they will not consider a warranty claim. Most, but not all Compressors are shipped with assembly lube NOT refrigerant oil. Make sure you use the correct oil and the correct amount.
Even a healthy system will accumulate junk at the O tube, you just reach in with a CLEAN pair of needle nose pliers, pull it out, oil the new oring, push it in by hand, the connection you disturbed will press it in all the way. Easy. Remember to change any oring you disturb and lube them with mineral oil as the book says, plain mineral oil from the pharmacy will work, this is because PAG oils attract moisture and will cause the fitting to corrode.
Is this the tube that's buried behind the brake booster and antilock brake stuff? Have fun with that swell design! It really should be removed and inspected. If you don't check the tube you don't know the condition of the system.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Is this the tube that's buried behind the brake booster and antilock brake stuff? Have fun with that swell design! It really should be removed and inspected. If you don't check the tube you don't know the condition of the system.
Yep thats the one! Normally i would replace such an extremely cheap part with no questions. But its location is the exact reason im asking if it really needs to be done
Is this the tube that's buried behind the brake booster and antilock brake stuff? Have fun with that swell design! It really should be removed and inspected. If you don't check the tube you don't know the condition of the system.
Yep thats the one! Normally i would replace such an extremely cheap part with no questions. But its location is the exact reason im asking if it really needs to be done
I think I agree with the OP's first instinct
normally I would say inspect and change it, but in this case no
it is working fine, and you could get stuck in this very hard to get to area and not be able to get a good seal on the o-rings when you put it back together and now you have a leak that is in a very difficult location, that you didn't have to have!
Originally Posted By: Chris142
If you don't check the tube you don't know the condition of the system.
yeah he does, it gets really cold = system in great condition
wild bill
the BiTOG A/C expert
normally I would say inspect and change it, but in this case no
it is working fine, and you could get stuck in this very hard to get to area and not be able to get a good seal on the o-rings when you put it back together and now you have a leak that is in a very difficult location, that you didn't have to have!
Originally Posted By: Chris142
If you don't check the tube you don't know the condition of the system.
yeah he does, it gets really cold = system in great condition
wild bill
the BiTOG A/C expert
I replace it every time.
Noisy but cold? How do you know that some bearing material isn't stuck to the orifice tube, waiting to get stuck in a repaired AC system.
Yes, certain things are a pain to replace, but I believe you will be stuck replacing the compressor twice and no warranty either time.
Noisy but cold? How do you know that some bearing material isn't stuck to the orifice tube, waiting to get stuck in a repaired AC system.
Yes, certain things are a pain to replace, but I believe you will be stuck replacing the compressor twice and no warranty either time.
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