Options on Motor Guard installation

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Feb 15, 2005
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I've bought a Motor Guard and oil cooler from Acewize (many thanks) and now I’m try to think of the best way of installing both of them.
The vehicle is a 1998 Nissan Frontier truck. The oil filter is a major pain to remove. It helps to be a contortionist to remove it. Also here in Dallas, hot weather is the norm.
I have bought a perma cool remote oil filter relocation kit but have not installed it. Acewize also threw in a remote oil filter mount but the oil inlet/outlet is on the wrong side.

I’m thinking of buying a perma cool oil sandwich kit and an oil thermostat to install the cooler.


My questions are:
(1) Do you think I should install the Motor Guard in line with the oil cooler
Pros
Easy to install/remove
Cons
Would the Motor Guard be hard to change because the oil will not drain down?
The Motor Guard has ¼ inch lines. Would this restrict my oil flow too much?

(2) Do you think I should tap off the oil pressure switch and return to a self tapping hollow bolt in the oil pan?
Pros
Greater flow to oil cooler.
No restrictions on oil flow.
Cons
I’m not thrill about punching a hole in my oil pan.

Opinions?
 
Putting the MG inline will render your cooler useless for cooling. The volume just isn't there, IMO. You can run the MG in parallel with the cooler ..since there will (probably) be at least 2psi differential across the cooler ..maybe a little more if you tee in at the adapter.

I would skip the Permacool thermostat and sandwich and get a MOCOL with a thermostat already in it. I would probably order it for 100C. The Permacool sandwich only allows a 2psi differential. That's enough to drive the MG-30 well enough when the oil is hot ..but doesn't afford much in the way of forcing much flow through the cooler.

Anyway ..my head hurts now ..I'll think better later..
 
quote:

Originally posted by Gary Allan:
.... The Permacool sandwich only allows a 2psi differential. That's enough to drive the MG-30 well enough when the oil is hot ..but doesn't afford much in the way of forcing much flow through the cooler..

Explain the '2psi differential', does the permacool sandwich bypass if there is too much resistance?
Which permacool PN sandwich?
 
Yes.

I believe all of them ..maybe not the Chevy style.

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quote:

Originally posted by Gary Allan:
I would skip the Permacool thermostat and sandwich and get a MOCOL with a thermostat already in it. I would probably order it for 100C.

Gary,
If the MG30 is installed in parallel with the cooler and most importantly on the OUTPUT of the thermostatically controlled MOCAL sandwich adapter set at 180F or 212F or whatever, wouldn't that mean the the MG30 wouldn't get the opportunity to do it's filtering until the oil got up to the temperature of the sandwich's thermostat since that would be the designated temp at which the sandwich adapter would allow oil to flow out of it? If so, doesn't that kind of limit the usefulness of the whole setup? Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
You don't get any filtering when the oil is cold anyway ..at least much. But you have a point. My first thought was that he's paying for a $35 sandwich and a $45 thermostat ..he might as well get a better setup integrated for $75. This may have been more $wise and functionally foolish.
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The utility of it would depend on how long his driving events are. If he's under 10 miles, you're right, he'd never see anything filtered in the bypass filter. If he's a 20 mpd commuter ..half of it may be filtering.

I'm not sure how the MOCOL functions. The Hayden uses a bimetal strip that closes over a relief port as the oil heats it. The Ford OEM Police Interceptor for the mid 80's 351 package used a setup like Permacool ..sorta. It just had a spring releif that bypassed the cooler based on pressure. The theory being that as the oil got hotter ..more and more would be able to pass over the cooler and not bypass it.

Assuming it's a bimetal thingy, it would be somewhat "reactive". As the oil warmed it would shunt less and less oil around the bypass/cooler.
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I take the bus most of the time. The park and ride is only five miles from my house.

Otherwise I have to drive to work. It's thirty miles one way. I usually do that once or twice a week.
 
How much work are you willing to do there, handyman? If you're going for a remote setup it's very easy to tap everything off of that. You can run your cooler and tap off your bypass to drain back to the valve cover (the cap).

You can also tap off the oil sender port and return to the oil cap as well.

Keep in mind that you don't have to hard fasten any of this. Zip ties hold everything just fine. Just make sure all the rotating parts are cleared. Leave slack for putting a drain pan under the MG.
 
I am fixing up a 81 Datsun diesel pickup I found out behind a guys house in Era, TX. When I put the Ford 181 sandwich adapter on the filter nipple was almost too short. My Camry was the same way. The 189 universal adapter has more reach. If you have enough room you can put tees on the sandwich adapter. Run two lines to the oil cooler and two to the Motor Guard. The path of least resistance will be to the oil cooler. You won't need the orifice in the Motor Guard but it won't hurt for it to be there. To drain good the Motor Guard will need to be higher than the adapter. It will need to get air up into the filter to drain. If air won't enter the filter and let the oil drain you may need to loosen the tee handle when the filter is still hot and let the air enter thru the tee handle. All of the oil from the cooler and Motor Guard must go thru the full flow filter. If there isn't enough oil coming from the Motor Guard and cooler the relief valve in the adapter will open and send oil directly to the full flow filter. You don't need a thermostat here in Texas.
The GM cars are a little bit of a problem because the relief valve is in the filter mount. The oil will bypass both filters and the oil cooler. Perma-Cool has teflon relief valve plugs but they are for the big V8s. Use a Perma-Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter with the stock relief valve plugged and screw on a Ford filter and you have the relief valve where it should be, in the filter. I like to use full flow filters with the relief valve in the top. That way if it opens it won't clean the bottom of the filter.
The old man told me the Datsun would start right up if I put a battery in it. I thought, yea right. A rats nest covered the engine, the sun had blown out the tires. You could tell it had been there for years. I put a battery in it, primed the pump and it started.
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Ralph
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Here's my advice, which worked real well when it was installed on my old S15:

1) Call Permacool and order the hollow bolt in your 3/4-16 thread size. You already have an almost new Permacool adapter.

2) Decide where you want things mounted and reverse engineer the plumbing from there.

3) Connect the cooler to the permacool, running the hot side (sandwich output) as close as practical to where the MG sits. Doesn't "have" to be close, but less tubing is always better, where practical.

4) Install a "T" in that hot cooler line to feed the MG. 1/4" is perfect, no restrictor required, as Ralph mentions. 1/2" through the cooler circuit offers less resistance and plenty of flow for the cooler.

5) Return the MG (clean oil) anywhere/how you wish.

Done!
 
Guys
Thanks for the advice!

I think I’m suffering from “Analysis Paralysis”! I’m over analyzing the best way to get it installed. I need to get off my behind and just install it.

I think I will “T” off the hot cooler line and return to it to the returning oil cooler line. I will not use a thermostat.

I’m not thrilled about zip ties but I use them all the time. I think they are like the duck tape of yesterday. I worry about them because I had some crumble on me when I used them outside. I guess UV light just tears them up.

Acewiza

I’m thinking of using your remote oil filter on my wife’s car’s transmission. It fits perfectly on the frame. If I do that then I could use your Perma cool sandwich to drive another MG 30 to filter the transmission fluid.
I will then have to suffer from “Analysis Paralysis” all over again.

Installing bypass filters must be like that potato chips commercial where you can’t eat just one potato chip. We could say you can’t just install one bypass filter!!
 
Maxi-Cooltm Mounting Kit
for Engine Oil Circuit

Kit contains a Universal Sandwich Adapter with patented adapter bushings to fit engines with the following thread sizes: 3/4"-16, 13/16"-16, 1"-12, M18x1.5, M20x1.5, M22x1.5. Kit also contains 11½ feet of 1/ 2" of oil hose, metal mounting straps, stainless steel hose clamps, brass fittings and all necessary mounting hardware.

Guys
I have order some more parts. I ordered the Perma CoolMax-Cool mounting kit for the engine oil circuit. I really needed only the sandwich adapter and the hose but this was cheaper that ordering the parts separately and gave me a few spare parts.

I’m taking Acewiza’s advice and reverse engineering the plumbing. I was able to install the Motor Guard housing in the engine compartment. I will try to install the remote oil filter and the oil cooler in the next two weeks and then try to hook it all up.

In a month, I will try to hook up my wife’s car transmission filter with a remote oil filter and then install a by pass filter into that plumbing.

It's good to have some projects to work on.
 
Way cool. Good photos. I like the way that you have them attached to the firewall. I will have to copy that layout when I install it on the wife’s car.
 
If you're returning the oil to the valve cover, will you be giving the valve guide seals a little too much work to do?
 
Nah. Lots of variable flow in tne valve cover. That little bit extra shouldn't matter. You would want to route it away from the PCV system suction ..but that should be baffled anyway
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