Opinions please! Home investment choices

[Cujet]

The Mitsubishi 3 ton unit with 4 head units is rated at 19.2 SEER

What's the EER? As that's the effectiveness of the unit at 95F.

I have experience with both window units and Mini Splits. I have not seen the fantastic changes in electric bills. But it is hot here in FL, and Cold in PA where my experiences were. The Mini Split in PA cost 3x more to operate than the NG furnace, and it did not provide quality heat. More like luke-warm heat.

 

[mattd]

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[mattd]

What's the EER? As that's the effectiveness of the unit at 95F.

I have experience with both window units and Mini Splits. I have not seen the fantastic changes in electric bills. But it is hot here in FL, and Cold in PA where my experiences were. The Mini Split in PA cost 3x more to operate than the NG furnace, and it did not provide quality heat. More like luke-warm heat.

The primary purpose will be for cooling here in New England. Sparsely supplemented for heat (natural gas boiler primary heat).

EER is 9.4

The CEER and EER on my window units range from 10.5-12

So power draw on what we use are window acs on is a constant 2700-2800 watts. Per the EER on the mini split, it would be 3800 watts on maximum output. Obviously this won’t be the constant output. The SEER puts it at 1875 watts

 

[chrlsful]

Based on the photos of the conditions of things, are most of you still in agreement HVAC/siding first?

yes (well, me, cant speak for the others), cuz as in #27 above "jacket on the outside" we insulate out near the siding now ('dry' inward not out ward). The whole industry (yes, even in depressed RI, unless way behind the science) has changed. It usta B abt 'copy dad'n grnd dad". Now it's "Let's go beyond the 'stretch code'." Replacing siding? great time to up-grade the nxt layer down. Esp since the caculations will have to B made on new HVAC (never go 'oversize', will B constantly "in" cycling - like the car that cant find the right autotranny gear).

"... it becomes very solid...."
no freeze there, we have a 3 ft deep ground freeze here.
If you think it wise to DIY hvac please read Dorsy & Kriger. U must have knowledge to go forward. Their's is basic but will open your eyes to many of the factors. A house isa system, just like a car or ur body. Do 1 thing one place "it effects the others"

https://www.betterworldbooks.com/product/detail/residential-energy-cost-savings-and-comfort-for-existing-buildings-1880120097?cjevent=85d36943647e11ed807c00530a82b821&utm_source=affiliate&utm_campaign=Text&utm_medium=CJ_Link&utm_term=3630151&utm_content=Homepage&cjdata=MXxOfDB8WXww

There are caculations for sizing the hvac system considering other paramitrs of ur specific house but... U may wish to go onto more specific text for the hvac in all its glory. If wanting more hit me up ([email protected]) in the email in my sig below.

 

[mattd]

Thought I would update this.

Went with a 3 ton, 4 zone mini split with branch box from Mitsubishi, but a higher efficiency unit with high heating capacity. Self installed, and the system has made an incredible difference in keeping the home comfortable this summer. Easily kept the house at 68 degrees even when it was 100+‘out. With the solar, even with leaving the AC running 24/7 since some time in June, I have not had an electric bill since March. I still retain about a $130 credit at this time. In a 24 hour period the system might consume 30 kWH during high ambient temps with the settings I have it at (coldest available target evaporator temperatures). The nice thing about these units is that it is VRF so it can ramp up and down based on demand.