Opinion on my fluids?

[Supermanclark]

I'm about to work on a 2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L (over 200,000 miles) I just acquired that's due for a good tune-up and I've been doing extensive research!
Let me know if you've ever used these or if anything else works better:

OIL
1. Pre-Clean* Oil System with BG EPR
2. Change Oil with Castrol Edge High Mileage 5W20 (or 5W30?)
3. Add BG MOA to Oil

TRANSMISSION
1. Pre-Clean* Transmission with SeaFoam Trans Tune
2. Change Transmission Fluid with Valvoline MaxLife Dex VI
3. Add LubeGard RED ATF Protectant to Transmission Fluid
[NOTE: Yes, the fluid has already been regularly changed so changing it now won't ruin the transmission.]

POWER STEERING
1. Change Power Steering Fluid with Royal Purple MAX EZ
2. Add Lubegard PSF Universal Protectant to PSF

BRAKES
1. Change Brake Fluid with Motul DOT 5.1
2. Add Phoenix BrakeShot Crash Avoidance Treatment to Brake Fluid
[NOTE: BrakeShot has been around since 2014, but it seems as if it's dead now. You can still buy it so lmk...]

FUEL SYSTEM
1. Add Techron High Milage to Gas Tank

* "Pre-Clean" as in revving the engine for about 20 minutes to circulate the cleaners in the old fluids before changing them out with new fluids. As EPR says on their instructions

[Here is my other thread where I talk about mechanical work]

 

[Owen Lucas]

POWER STEERING
1. Change Power Steering Fluid with Royal Purple MAX EZ
2. Add Lubegard PSF Universal Protectant to PSF

Lubegard maxes a power steering flush, not sure if a flush helps in anyway for a PS system, but food for thought.

BRAKES
1. Change Brake Fluid with Motul DOT 5.1

I wouldn't upgrade the brake fluid, I don't think there will be any benefit from 5.1 in an Odyssey. Stick with what ever is OE.

 

[Supermanclark]

Lubegard maxes a power steering flush, not sure if a flush helps in anyway for a PS system, but food for thought.

I wasn't going to completely flush it. Just drain and fill like a normal change.

I wouldn't upgrade the brake fluid, I don't think there will be any benefit from 5.1 in an Odyssey. Stick with what ever is OE.

Yeah, I didn't know, but it felt as if there's not a lot of better choices anyway...

 

[scotty.honda.dog]

I have a 2006 Pilot with 260something k miles, same engine and transmission as you have.

I am not a fan of all the additives. Here is what I would do:

Engine oil:
Change twice with Mobil1 high mileage.

Oil filter:
Bosch 3323 Premium or Fram higher end filter

Transmission fluid:
Each drain and refill is 1/3 of the ATF capacity. Drain and refill it twice now, drain once at next oil change.
Stick with Honda fluid, or many people have had success with the Valvoline Maxlife Multivehicle ATF (red jug) in these Honda ATs. I would not put any additives unless you have shift problems.

Brake fluid:
Honda only for me

Power steering:
Honda fluid for me, but I have used Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak to fix a few weepy leaks around worn seals. Vacuum out reseveoir, refill, repeat a few times.

Very important: disable the VCM. I use and recommend ”VCM Tuner II” from vcmtuner.com. Info on that site.

 

[edyvw]

I wasn't going to completely flush it. Just drain and fill like a normal change.



Yeah, I didn't know, but it felt as if there's not a lot of better choices anyway...

Pick up supertech DOT3.

 

[Supermanclark]

I am not a fan of all the additives.

Why is that?

Transmission fluid:
Each drain and refill is 1/3 of the ATF capacity. Drain and refill it twice now, drain once at next oil change.
Stick with Honda fluid, or many people have had success with the Valvoline Maxlife Multivehicle ATF (red jug) in these Honda ATs.

Would it hurt to do a 3x drain & refill now instead of 2x? I'm planning on selling this van.
It was replaced around 10,000 miles ago, but the reason being is I did want to use MaxLife ATF instead.

Very important: disable the VCM. I use and recommend ”VCM Tuner II” from vcmtuner.com. Info on that site.

Yep! That was the first thing I planned on doing!

 

[RyanY]

My $.02

Engine flush is probably innecessary unless the oil has been neglected and sludged.

Maxlife is good, as is any other major brand ATF is fine as long as it specifically states compatibility with DW1. However i would probably use Castrol import which is slightly thicker, given that your trans originally had Z1. Lubegard red is fine but usually unnecessary.

RP Max EZ is good stuff; I use it in my Toyota. No additives necessary.

Honda brake fluid is DOT 3 and nothing special. Any brand of DOT 3 or 4 is fine for a Honda, and I see no benefit of going to 5.1 unless you are racing or towing. Even then it is probably unnecessary.

Techron is a good choice...I use it once or twice a year in all my cars. I don't know if it is necessary but my butt dyno notices a very slight acceleration improvement after treatment.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Welcome to BITOG

First, get a muzzler to disable the VCM

Any synthetic oil is good to the OCI suggested by the minder, especially once you install the muzzler. The OE Honda filter is Fram. Use whichever Fram you feel like spending the money on, as even the orange can PH7317 is better than the A02 from the dealer. You do not need to use any flush products or other additives.

You MUST use a power steering fluid that is compatible with Honda! You don't have to buy it from the dealer, but it must say Honda on the front of the bottle! Advance Auto sells a house brand Honda PS by the quart, and so does O'Reilly. Another good choice is Idemitsu PSF from Napa.

Someone on eBay has Valvoline Professional Series Honda power steering fluid. You can get it in quantities of 2, 3, or 6. Here is the listing for 3 quarts for $28. Although the seller says it's synthetic blend, it is in fact full synthetic. VPS is primarily meant for shops and VIOC quicky lubes. Part number 859070. It is NOT the same Valvoline power steering fluid in the white bottle you find in stores!

There is no need for the crash avoidance brake shot. Just the brake fluid is sufficient, whether you use Motul DOT 5.1 or cheap Walmart brand DOT 3. Honda says to change it every 3 years regardless of mileage; this is much more important than what brand you use.

If you need to change the coolant, get Zerex Asian Blue, Pentofroast A3, or Peak OET Asian Blue. The Lisle coolant funnel makes the job very easy.

For the spark plugs, only use the OE-spec NGK or Denso iridium, and only buy them from a reputable source. Avoid Amazon and eBay, unless you know the seller is reputable. For Amazon, make sure it is sold AND SHIPPED by the dealer/reputable seller. Do NOT buy directly from Amazon or even from Amazon FBA, as Amazon co-mingles their own inventory with third parties' inventory, which may be counterfeit.

 

[ctechbob]

Brakes - Just pump some regular Dot 3/4 through the system. Whatever that 'Crash avoidance' stuff is, leave it where it belongs, on the shelf. Especially if you're going to sell the car. What if that stuff has some oddball interaction with something in the system and causes an accident?

Power Steering - Just use the Lubegard Honda PSF, or some other 'Honda/Acura' PSF, these systems don't get all crudded up and you should use something designed for the Honda system.

Trans - Skip the flush. Again, these things don't get all crudded up. It's had regular changes, there's no need to 'flush' it. LG Red, however, is perfectly fine in the recommended dose.

Some of this is just straight-up BS, and the other part is just not necessary for a properly maintained brake system. No way I'd want it anywhere near my car.

BrakeShot Brake Fluid Crash Avoidance Treatment​

• Protects your vehicles ability to stay on the road during high speed hairpin turns - BS
• Shields your Anti-Lock brake system from dangerous moisture and corrosion - Not if properly maintained
• Defends your vehicles ability to keep traction in wet or icy conditions - BS
• Strengthens your brake fluid’s ability to provide stopping power to your Crash Avoidance System during Autonomous Emergency Braking - BS
• DOT approved and compatible for use with all DOT 3,4 and 5.1 brake fluid - I Find this VERY difficult to believe unless it is just brake fluid

 

[Supermanclark]

First, get a muzzler to disable the VCM

Yep! That was my first goal!

You MUST use a power steering fluid that is compatible with Honda! You don't have to buy it from the dealer, but it must say Honda on the front of the bottle! Advance Auto sells a house brand Honda PS by the quart, and so does O'Reilly. Another good choice is Idemitsu PSF from Napa.

Someone on eBay has Valvoline Professional Series Honda power steering fluid. You can get it in quantities of 2, 3, or 6. Here is the listing for 3 quarts for $28. Although the seller says it's synthetic blend, it is in fact full synthetic.

Alright, I honestly just wanted to choose the best one I could get my hands on, but I wasn't sure which that would be.

If you need to change the coolant, get Zerex Asian Blue, Pentofroast A3, or Peak OET Asian Blue. The Lisle coolant funnel makes the job very easy.

Thank you! I was actually trying to find a good coolant!

 

[Supermanclark]

Brakes - Just pump some regular Dot 3/4 through the system.
Whatever that 'Crash avoidance' stuff is, leave it where it belongs, on the shelf. Especially if you're going to sell the car. What if that stuff has some oddball interaction with something in the system and causes an accident?

You're right... Considering, it's the only BF additive on the market, that seems fishy as well... Not using it.

Trans - Skip the flush. Again, these things don't get all crudded up. It's had regular changes, there's no need to 'flush' it. LG Red, however, is perfectly fine in the recommended dose.

I wasn't planning on doing a complete "flush" on it; just a drain & fill. I know the current fluid was taken care of around 10k miles ago, but I just wanted to use something better for the older system.

 

[ctechbob]

TRANSMISSION
1. Pre-Clean* Transmission with SeaFoam Trans Tune B]
2. Change Transmission Fluid with Valvoline MaxLife Dex VI
3. Add LubeGard RED ATF Protectant to Transmission Fluid
[NOTE: Yes, the fluid has already been regularly changed so changing it now won't ruin the transmission.]

See above. There's no need for a cleaner.

 

[ctechbob]

I wasn't planning on doing a complete "flush" on it; just a drain & fill. I know the current fluid was taken care of around 10k miles ago, but I just wanted to use something better for the older system.

More important for the 5-speed boxes is fresh fluid, not so much a 'better' fluid. DW1 is much better than the old Z1 and the aftermarket fluids are just fine as well. Keeping clean fluid in there is the main thing. Whether that be DW1, Maxlife, H+, or something else.

 

[Supermanclark]

There's no need for a cleaner.

I'll agree with you if only for the transmission.
Pretty sure I need one for the engine oil system... If only because of that stupid VCM!

 

[ctechbob]

I'll agree with you if only for the transmission.
Pretty sure I need one for the engine oil system... If only because of that stupid VCM!

That's all you. Not likely to hurt the motor, but not a big chance of success either.

 

[zrxkawboy]

Skip all the cleaners and additives, with the exception of the fuel system cleaner. Modern quality fluids need no aftermarket additives.

 

[ordinarybloke]

I wouldn't upgrade the brake fluid, I don't think there will be any benefit from 5.1 in an Odyssey. Stick with what ever is OE.

Agreed. It's a poor fluid (for this job). A downgrade. Chemistry plays its trick. Unless you've truly emptied the system of whatever was in there before, you'll not see the improved boil-points of Motul DOT 5.1. You're far more likely to lower the boil-point. Yes, you can mix DOT 3 with DOT4; DOT 5.1 etc etc, they are compatible. But... it's just like upping the concentration of coolant/anti-freeze with water, this never lowers the freeze-point, you'll raise it.

Ratio is critical. Brake-fluid is the same; Motul DOT 5.1 - if mixed with (insert whatever DOT3/4 here) is likely to have a lower boil-point than Walmart's finest, Which is why you can mix fluid types, only you shouldn't. You will finish with a still lower boil-point. The chemistry can/may/might raise the boil-point however this is unlikely. It's about ratio. Hence mixing is not wise. Chemistry does not play fair.

As 'Slacktide' says, it's about fresh fluid, not the brand. And, ahem... why Motul DOT 5.1? Smacks of boy-racer science.

For a daily-driver it'll get wet and go to acid faster than Walmart. Yes, Motul is better fluid, if ... er, if you're going change it often. And it gets worse, if you drive such that you actually need the high boil-point of Motul, you'll not keep your driving-license long enough to worry. What you've got is a mix of fluids. May as well use orange-juice and have it done. In the nicest possible way, for a daily-driver, Walmart is your friend.