Lot of good advice above. Especially re: pins and boots.
I use Sil-Glyde for that. Cheap and easy to find, also does your brakes. Smear it on door seals, trunk gasket, etc. and it will keep them forever.
Gear oil to Redline GL-4 (5 speed manual)
(Edit) Turkey Baster out old dark power steering fluid
Should I change the brake fluid? (it's dark!) How about the clutch Fluid? (looks fine)
OK, 5spd manual means 4cyl. I had a 2003 of these a while (4cy, 5spd.). Some thoughts:
1) First off, you need to treat this engine with kid gloves because it has two serious design flaws that can get out of hand. One is the head bolt threads were not adequately supported in the block casting. They generally pull out and then create a failed HG and all the massive, dirty, obscene fun those entail. Read up on that.
2) some years suffer from a weird Japanese tendency of the period to reduce oil control ring drain holes and skirt drain inlets. So they hold oil near the ring and they coke up and clog. Then they burn oil like a Saudi Prince heating his Swiss ski chalet. I know a lot about this because I have an Isuzu from then with the same problem. Saturns have this, too.
Your fluids are your first concern, but then you need to get on these issues and learn how to prevent them (very high quality oil in the correct climate-appropriate grade, like M1 10w-30 or similar, is your best bet for the 2nd issue. Maybe better is Redline 10w-30; the ester base has an arguably good chance to clean up the rings/drains. I am not sure what for the 1st issue as we got the car new and got rid of it before this was widely known and I had to deal with it).
Back to your fluids. IF IT WERE MY CAR, knowing what I do, I'd do this:
a) Run the M1 5k miles or so, then dump it and the Bosch filter (it's made by Purolator I think, and they didn't work on our Lexus w/o the ADBV failing). Listen on start-up in the morning and if you hear loud noise quieting after a few seconds, dump that filter and get a Fram Ultra. I'd put in Redline 10w-30 and a Fram Ultra, 10oz of Lubegard Biotech.
b) I'd siphon out the brake fluid res, PSF res, Clutch (is it combined with the brake? I can't recall...). Don't use a turkey baster, it's messy and not effective. $1 worth of hose and siphoning is way better. I love this tool. I had a proper/expensive MityVac and it got stolen. This works really well for a fraction of the money when I had to replace it:
Ok, its' not available now (it was $17 delivered), but you get the idea.
I would refill the PSF with this:
I would refill the clutch and brake, PS res, and then repeat a 2nd time after a week or 100+ miles of driving. No need to bleed clutch or brakes unless someone let air in them somehow.