Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
I see BLS is quite knowledgeable and see he uses car oil in his bike. So I got to ask him if he thinks using car oil in a > 200hp motorcycle is asking for trouble. If there is a chance using the wrong oil for a wet clutch then I'm thinking this bike will uncover that.
I decided to test whether a motorcycle specific oil produced better
numbers than a Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO)... Selected were Asmoil
MCT 10w30 and Mobil 1 AFE 0w30... granted the miles are low but they
are miles not in moderation either more like tracks speeds which
simulates the distant my customers cover in a year of racing or track
days... my customers are usually consummate riders with enough spare
cash to afford to own any exotic homologated racer they desire from
the Golden Years of World Superbikes or a Desmosedici...
Amsoil 10w30 versus Mobil 0w30
Depending on your bank account I recommend either $5.40 a quart Mobil 1 5w30 API SN
because it was ranked #10 out of 156 oils tested for wear protection by 540Rat... or
ranked #4 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T synthetic Motorcycle specific about $14.25 per bottle.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
You actually give 540rat testing protocol merit? After everything you obviously haven't learned since your arrival I guess I shouldn't be surprised.
Pert plus tests high on 540rat's testing method too,are you going to start recommending that too?
Hillarious.
Haven't you learned yet that you can't compare wear between different oils via a cheap used oil analysis. I would have thought you learned that by now.
Unless the engine was operated identically on both run of oil the wear numbers cannot be compared,and in reality even if they were operated identically they still can't be compared. A used oil analysis isn't meant for wear. It's meant to test oil condition and contamination. And a few ppm is nothing more than noise.
I wish you would quit spreading incorrect info. It's getting very old and I'm getting tired of correcting you. Why you can't accept these facts is beyond me.
Digitalsniper. Using an automotive oil in a shared sumo bike is absolutely stupid. Pmco's are friction modified which will ruin your clutch. It's not going to happen overnight however it will shorten the life of your clutch.
Busylittleshop has no business recommending anything using the protocols he's described and his advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.
Now you can use Diesel engine oils. They aren't friction modified to the degree that pmco's are and usually are high in their anti-wear agent levels which is exactly what you want in a shared sump lube.
I have been using conventional rotella 15w-40 in my shared sump bikes and my Harley,both in the engine and primary. The Harley is highly modified well above stock power levels and I'm still on the stock clutch.
Now an hdeo in my experience doesn't shear fast. In fact shift feel remains consistent right up til I'm ready to change the oil.
I used to use high priced synthetics in my bikes til I clued in. I stick to 3000 mile intervals. A waste for a synthetic oil. Rotella maintains shift feel until about 4000 miles on the Honda 750 before it gets notchy. The venture just starts getting notchy at 3000 miles.
I change the oil in my primary same time as the engine on my Harley.
Bike oils aren't worth the price in my opinion. Not when you can buy an hdeo for half the price to run the same amount of miles.
I've also found that rotella lasts longer as far as shift feel vs m1 4t and mogul 4t 10w-40. Because it's a 15w-40 it resists shear better than a 10w-40,at least that's been my experience.
No way would I use a 30 grade in a motorcycle. Not one I want to keep,unless it's a monograde and sheer proof.