oilguard element change intervals?

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Hello all,
I am contemplating adding an oilguard eps-20 bypass setup to my 7.3 IDI (92 Ford F250). I am trying to get a handle on the change intervals for the bypass filter. I'll do oil analysis to get it right when the day comes - but for now I'd like to know what others have learned. If you take oilguard at its word they expect that the bypass filter will be replaced when the oil is changed (along with the full flow) and that barring analysis, that interval should be double the norm, or manufacturers guidance. I currently use Delo 400 15-40 and a good quality full flow filter with changes at 5k. My gut says the eps-20 could probably go several change intervals without any problems. What do you think?
Chris
 
I have run 20Kmi on the elements with the OilGuard on my 03 Duramax Diesel. At the last change I cross-sectioned the element and it looked like it still had life remaining. I'm currenly using Mobil 1 Truck and SUV with a 7-7.5k OCI and will probably run the current element to about 28kmi (4 OCI's). UOA History

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Element with 20k
More pics

I also top off (less than 1/2 qt between changes when needed) with Power Service Diesel Lube Oil Extender.... DLOE VOA

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[ December 19, 2005, 09:12 AM: Message edited by: Bill Plock ]
 
Bill,
I saw your post a while back with the element opened up.It sure seems to me that the element at 20k had more life. I bet 4 OCIs won't be a problem. I think I will plan on roughly the same intervals, but I'll use analysis on a regular interval within the OCI to get a handle on degradation. At any rate, thanks for the data.
Chris
 
Chris,
Thanks for the feedback and let us know how your used oil analysis turn out..

LACTD,
No, I didn't notice any water.. When the filter element was cut open and cross sectioned the cotton appeared very dense and absorbent. It also expanded as it was cut.

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My point was that one of the benefits of a bypass filter is to take water out of the oil. If you do a lot of stop and go driving then you will have more moisture for the filter to remove from the oil; and in doing this is it wise to extend the filter change not knowing "about" how much might be in it? If you do a lot of highway driving then this would not be an issue.
 
LACTD,
I understand, but I don't know how to characterize it. Will the water show up in an oil anaysis? If not, isn't it true that even an ocassional long freeway run will clear the water? Do I have my head where the sun rarely shines?

I suppose I am just being cheap. But that said, I just can't see spending the money and time (install) for a bypass and not making a reasonable effort to optimize the benefits.

What do you think?
Chris
 
I don't belive the string type filters ( oilguard ) remove water...the TP type filters ( Motorguard) remove and can hold ...don't quote me on this up to a quart??? of water ....I personally don't think the string type filter is doing that good of a job there of filtering down deep ...it looks as though the oil is having trouble getting through all the layers of string ??? Just my humble opinion ...though the used oil analysis look great ...one has to wonder how good they would look without your oilguard .

Remember Bill I am a firm beliver in bypass filters ..I have 2 on my car ( transmission and oil) ...just not impressed with the string
 
mrcrp

I did not mean my question to be critical, just "what basis" you are using to extend the filter change.

And deepsquat:
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No , I will not quote you, because you are wrong
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The "string" type filters do asorbe or filter out water. And yes the toliet paper filter do also. When you can still read the dipstick at 7k on a Cummins diesel, it must be filtering something!
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LACTD,
I did not take your comments to be critical - in fact I appreciate the water in oil concern. If I came off otherwise then that's on me, not you. If I understand this correctly, I can characterize the oil condition over time with an analysis - but - do you know if the water will show up in that analysis? Essentially, I am trying to establish some 'basis' for the OCI (along with related filters). I expect in the end that I will just do it and test every 2.5k and then chart the deltas to get a handle on what is going on. If I do that over two or three full intervals and have some consistency then I can probably count on that going forward. At that point I could act conservatively and know I am OK. At least that's the plan. I am aiming at a full 500k on the motor. I took a peugot diesel sedan to 400k before it quit. It was real loose at that point. I'm trying to do better this time.
Thanks for your thoughts - I hope you know they were appreciated in a positive way.
Chris
 
Thanks for the above post. I have learned that you get the answers you need by asking questions, sometimes stupid ones. Water is a concern to me here in the South. And the fact that most of my driving in the winter months is 10 miles or less which is not good. Then in the summer just the opposite. Whether the water will show up in a used oil analysis is beyond me. Since cost is not a factor with one vehicle I won't do the used oil analysis; just change the oil every 15K. That will save me two changes per year and know its good. Is a used oil analysis valid with a bypass filter? That is one of the overriding questions that prevent me from long OCIs. If the oil was crap and your bearings were wearing out the filter would catch the stuff - would that show up on the used oil analysis? If I had a fleet of trucks that would be another thing.
 
deepsquat wrote,

"Remember Bill I am a firm beliver in bypass filters ..I have 2 on my car ( transmission and oil) ...just not impressed with the string"

No problem.. I appreciate your comments ..
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IMHO all the various bypass filters have the their pros & cons... I chose the Oilguard primarily for its longer change interval and reasonably priced elements. As far as the oil getting through the string, if you look closely at this picture you can see a concentration of soot at the center of the string. This would indicate (as another member pointed out) that the oil travels a spiral path through individual strings from the outside to the inside of the filter.

Also this is a little off topic but several years ago when researching the various bypass filters, I almost went with a Harvard. It uses a commercial paper element similar to TP but with a longer service interval. At the time it seemed to be the best filter I found but the cost was out of my range.

Harvard Filters:
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Anyone out there using a Harvard bypass?

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Yes, the string-type bypass filters do filter out water. I posted this in another thread showing that the OilGuard filter removed the gradual accumulation of water in a test done by someone on another website.

I don't have any proof that long drives remove the water, but it stands to reason that this does happen. When water gets hot enough it turns to a gas. But that temperature is not 212F (100C) because the boiling point is much higher at elevated pressures and contaminants will also raise the boiling point. So you would have to do some significant long-distance driving to get the bypass filter hot enough to vaporize the water.
 
Here’s some cross section pictures of the Oil Guard by-pass filter I recently changed on my Duramax Diesel after 28k miles of use (4 OCI’s).





(click to enlarge)

Previous Filter after 20k miles


Prior to changing the oil and filter I took a ride to warm the oil but when changing I noticed the OilGuard canister was just barley warm to the touch indicating the filter was probably not flowing very well. The outer string layers of the filter with 28Kmiles were nearly all black with soot compared to the pictures of the previous filter with 20kmi. I think next time I’ll start checking the filter case temp more frequently when the miles on the filter exceeds 20k.

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I sure do not wish to sound like a smart A$$ ,But Yes it will Remove Water (small amounts) I Think OilGuard Is One of The Best By Pass Systems Out There ! i Have 15 Units Now ,We our Very Satisfied And The Test Come back Great. we Use R/P Long Rider Oil, Change oil around 100k on our large trucks and around 50k on the work Trucks (dodge 3500) we Can Go Longer But I Feel Better Changing Out , Oil Reports Still Look Great. I have tried a few dif Kinds Of By Pass Systems
Like Gulf Coast (do not like ) I Just Think Oiguard Is one of the best, Bottum Line Is We would Not Drive With Out a Bypass System . A Good Oil & a Good Bypass System Is a Great Investment !


Regards,
Col.
 
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