One other thing, is there a reason why I can't find the Mobil ESP X2 in store? Even the Mobil web site states "No Sellers Found". Going to have my oil changed at Infiniti in the next week or two so will need to order ESP X2 or the Valvoline Modern Engine in 0W-20 before then.
Oil Suggestions for a new car
- Thread starter MaxdOut
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2014
- Messages
- 2,846
0W20 oils I’ve used and liked...
Valvoline Modern Engine
Shell Rotella Gas Truck
Quaker State Ultimate Durability
Pennzoil Platinum
Castrol Magnetic
Liked them all...purchased all of them on sale or rebate.
Valvoline Modern Engine
Shell Rotella Gas Truck
Quaker State Ultimate Durability
Pennzoil Platinum
Castrol Magnetic
Liked them all...purchased all of them on sale or rebate.
I'd just get Mobil1 EP it's 24.37 at Wal-Mart and there's a $15 rebate, ESP X2 is pretty hard to find, it's kind of obscure it's primary market is newer Mercedes and VW vehicles that require oils that meet specific specifications, I don't know what's so great about it in vehicles that don't need an oil that carries those specs for warranty purposes.
Really odd that someone else pointed out. The turbo engine used to have a different oil recommendation from the standard engine up until 2020.
That would drive me nuts *L* But its all good otherwise, yet I feel like someone left something out of the manual for 2020 by mistake.
Anyway two kinds of mb229 oil is recommended but in the turbo before 2020 this was a whole separate oil recommendation and would go by that... maybe.
This was the pervious recommendation in 2019 Turbos.
Your in a cool cimate, down south here I would maybe go with the MB229.5 @ 5/30 or 5/40 which would open up the possibility of dual gas/diesel oil if you were worried about deposits. Which I think is what the MB 229.5 is about
Then again I never had reason to investigate mb229
That would drive me nuts *L* But its all good otherwise, yet I feel like someone left something out of the manual for 2020 by mistake.
Anyway two kinds of mb229 oil is recommended but in the turbo before 2020 this was a whole separate oil recommendation and would go by that... maybe.
This was the pervious recommendation in 2019 Turbos.
Your in a cool cimate, down south here I would maybe go with the MB229.5 @ 5/30 or 5/40 which would open up the possibility of dual gas/diesel oil if you were worried about deposits. Which I think is what the MB 229.5 is about
Then again I never had reason to investigate mb229
That's a different engine this car has the 3.0L Nissan Twin Turbo V6, that was for the 2L mercedes i4 turbo engine.
Well that explains it! Good luck with your choice of oil. Ill agree its not as cut and dry.
dnewton3
Staff member
I think we're over-applying the ability of any lube to control against the OPs concern here, at least to a major degree. The concern is essentially how to keep the valves clean. DI engines suffer from a lack of fuel wash on the backside of the intake valves, as we all know. So the PCV vapors coat the back of the intakes. While I do believe that perhaps a lube with a very good Noack score MIGHT help to a small degree, the reality is that just about any DI engine is going to suffer a significant amount of build-up, regardless of what brand/grade lube is used. And, Noack only addresses vapor of the lube, and speaks nothing to the soot and other byproducts which also contribute to intake valve build-up. He's asking for advice on the "best" oil to help with this issue. I think there are far more important topics to mechanical intervention which supercede lube choice in this topic.
There are certainly some improvements in API classifications and other Euro certifications regarding lubes for these DI applications; that's very true. But it's a matter of what kind of improvement can be found versus the overall aspect of the DI process. If keeping the valve goop from building up is a major concern, then rerouting the PCV vapors (externally, or via a catch-can) is about the only way to resolve this with a much higher degree of confidence over brand/grade of oil chosen. I'll make some examples here for clarity, though I have no proof that these values are accurate; this is for illumination of concept and not claim of fact. If one of the new, super premium lubes is capable of reducing vapor-born intake valve build-up by 3% over the life of the engine, that pales drastically in comparison to the 85% improvement (or better) of using a catch can and monitoring it properly, or if one is willing to risk the heresy of being scofflaw, the 100% effective act of dumping them to atmosphere rather than back into the intake. I am not advocating for any one choice here; just trying to put the task in context. IMO which lube is chosen is really going to have a minimal impact on the overall effect. The choice of lube might alter the time frame of when the engine may require an intake valve cleaning by maybe 20%??? IOW - using a lower quality lube might cause you to have to have the intake valves cleaned at 100k miles, versus using a high quality lube might mean you need them cleaned at 120k miles? Because the OP said he intends to "drive it until the wheels fall off", it's not a question of avoiding the valve cleaning; it will be needed at some point. He can only defer the cleaning, not eliminate it. Versus, using a catch-can which quite possibly might avoid the cleaning all together, or at least double or triple the valve cleaning interval.
My point? The act of altering the vapors path via mechanical intervention is FAR, FAR more effective at keeping the intake valves clean than what lube you're going to use.
That's my two cents anyway.
There are certainly some improvements in API classifications and other Euro certifications regarding lubes for these DI applications; that's very true. But it's a matter of what kind of improvement can be found versus the overall aspect of the DI process. If keeping the valve goop from building up is a major concern, then rerouting the PCV vapors (externally, or via a catch-can) is about the only way to resolve this with a much higher degree of confidence over brand/grade of oil chosen. I'll make some examples here for clarity, though I have no proof that these values are accurate; this is for illumination of concept and not claim of fact. If one of the new, super premium lubes is capable of reducing vapor-born intake valve build-up by 3% over the life of the engine, that pales drastically in comparison to the 85% improvement (or better) of using a catch can and monitoring it properly, or if one is willing to risk the heresy of being scofflaw, the 100% effective act of dumping them to atmosphere rather than back into the intake. I am not advocating for any one choice here; just trying to put the task in context. IMO which lube is chosen is really going to have a minimal impact on the overall effect. The choice of lube might alter the time frame of when the engine may require an intake valve cleaning by maybe 20%??? IOW - using a lower quality lube might cause you to have to have the intake valves cleaned at 100k miles, versus using a high quality lube might mean you need them cleaned at 120k miles? Because the OP said he intends to "drive it until the wheels fall off", it's not a question of avoiding the valve cleaning; it will be needed at some point. He can only defer the cleaning, not eliminate it. Versus, using a catch-can which quite possibly might avoid the cleaning all together, or at least double or triple the valve cleaning interval.
My point? The act of altering the vapors path via mechanical intervention is FAR, FAR more effective at keeping the intake valves clean than what lube you're going to use.
That's my two cents anyway.
Last edited:
That and/or using a chemical cleaner like CRC IVD GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner every other oil change or so.
Interestingly enough, I did buy an oil catch can to install but ending up retuning it when I found out it could be used to void the powertrain warranty. Even the manufacturer of the catch can suggested that it was a possibility and if problems arise to remove the can before bring into service.
Since I will be using the dealer for 90% of the required service to the vehicle it would be impractical to remove every time I brought it in.
I have also read the "Magnuson-Moss" does not apply in this situation since the part is not a replacement but a modification to the original design. The catch can be used as an argument that modifying the evap system affect the entire engine, fuel ratios, pressurizations etc.
I've read and seen videos were they open up the engine before and after and the cleaners did not do as much as one would hope, which led me back to trying to choose oil that will minimize carbon deposits if at all possible.
The EGR system also contributes significantly to IVD.
Only way to prevent most IVD would be catch can and eliminating EGR, which is out of the question on a warranty vehicle.
Only way to prevent most IVD would be catch can and eliminating EGR, which is out of the question on a warranty vehicle.
Were those people doing it as periodic maintenance or after they had enough deposits to cause issue? I'd think for a solvent based treatment to really be effective you'd need to start doing it like every 10,000miles or annually or something, not after you have significant accumulation.
The one video was on a VW with 71K with no maintenance done prior to remove the valve deposits, guess you could say it had accumulation but don't think it was significant. They had the engine apart for both before and after. There was others that used bore scopes can't remember the details of those but they also had no maintenance done to prevent valve deposits.
Here is the video
I had a 2016 Subaru WRX, which is TGDI, so, I've researched IVD and low-Noack oils, as well as mitigation and removal of IVD.
I didn't end up keeping the car (sold with 4x,xxx miles), but, if I had, my choice would have been to not fix something that ain't broke.
In other words, I'd keep driving it until/if you notice significant power reduction or hard starting. At that point, get the intake tract walnut shell blasted. Find somebody who does this job all the time on the model of car you have (don't be somebody's guinea pig), and just get it done, because that's the ONLY method of cleaning the intake tract that's going to remove carbon buildup (if present).
In my WRX, I used Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus (PPPP, in BITOG abbreviation) 10W-30, exclusively (6000-mile max OCI due to fuel dilution).
I went with that oil because of the very good Noack score (4.7% last time somebody measured it), and the low amount of viscosity modifying polymer (plastic). Of course, the formulation has changed a couple of times since then, with Noack and VM content likely going up due to the bean counters getting involved, as well as the focus on economy with SP.
But it's still a very good oil that compares very favorably in terms of base oil quality and low VM content, especially for the price. And, it's on every Walmart shelf. It also has very good cold flow characteristics. In fact, it beats a lot of 5W-30s for winter performance (it's thin for grade, but, due to low VM content, won't shear down easily). I had no complaints with it in the WRX.
I didn't end up keeping the car (sold with 4x,xxx miles), but, if I had, my choice would have been to not fix something that ain't broke.
In other words, I'd keep driving it until/if you notice significant power reduction or hard starting. At that point, get the intake tract walnut shell blasted. Find somebody who does this job all the time on the model of car you have (don't be somebody's guinea pig), and just get it done, because that's the ONLY method of cleaning the intake tract that's going to remove carbon buildup (if present).
In my WRX, I used Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus (PPPP, in BITOG abbreviation) 10W-30, exclusively (6000-mile max OCI due to fuel dilution).
I went with that oil because of the very good Noack score (4.7% last time somebody measured it), and the low amount of viscosity modifying polymer (plastic). Of course, the formulation has changed a couple of times since then, with Noack and VM content likely going up due to the bean counters getting involved, as well as the focus on economy with SP.
But it's still a very good oil that compares very favorably in terms of base oil quality and low VM content, especially for the price. And, it's on every Walmart shelf. It also has very good cold flow characteristics. In fact, it beats a lot of 5W-30s for winter performance (it's thin for grade, but, due to low VM content, won't shear down easily). I had no complaints with it in the WRX.
If a 10W rated oil “beats a lot of” 5W rated oils at winter performance then it would be labeled as a 5W oil. It’s not about “flow” when it comes to cranking and pumpability.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
^^2nd Go with a W-30. I wonder if your manual or FSM has an oil chart that lists different grades according to ambient temperature and driving style? Nissan use to include that chart in all their manuals, speccing all the way up to 20W-50.
I wonder if your dealership offers the Nissan Ester oil on their oil changes? Are your oil changes "free" with the purchase of your new car?
The most important thing to do is make sure you don't need a specific spec to be met with the oil in order to avoid any warranty hassle should there be engine problems.
I'd then pick the highest HTHS oil in the proper grade, meeting any specifications required.
I'd then pick the highest HTHS oil in the proper grade, meeting any specifications required.
Actually, that isn't entirely correct. In the event of a failure, for some automakers, maintenance records may be requested if the parts are on restriction or require a techline case. Once the manufacturer stalls by denying the claim, most individuals will not have the financial resources to overturn that decision.
My Infiniti loves Mobil 1, but it is a completely different engine.... the VQ37VHR
You should get a Dexos Gen2 GF6/API-SP Synthetic oil for sure being you have both a Turbo and a GDI engine. Don't settle for anything less than a High-Quality synthetic. Also why 4k to 5k oil change Intervals? I would almost certainly get Mobil 1 like others are recommending and stick with it.
At least for the first oil change, get it done quick to get the break in materials out of the engine. After on a typical gasoline engine, with a quality synthetic, I would shoot for 5k oil changes unless the manual said less. That said for a Turbo I would reduce it by 1k, and for GDI, I would also reduce by 1k. Your engine is going to be hard on oil in my opinion.
The thing is you don't want a bunch of combustion byproducts suspended in the oil on a GDI engine because when the crankcase gases go through the PCV valve the oil vapor gets reburnt, which potentially gunks up the valves with carbon. I am not sure if this particular engine occasionally sprays the valves off with some gasoline or not, but if not it is imperative you keep only a high quality synthetic oil that is in great condition in the engine at all times.
You should get a Dexos Gen2 GF6/API-SP Synthetic oil for sure being you have both a Turbo and a GDI engine. Don't settle for anything less than a High-Quality synthetic. Also why 4k to 5k oil change Intervals? I would almost certainly get Mobil 1 like others are recommending and stick with it.
At least for the first oil change, get it done quick to get the break in materials out of the engine. After on a typical gasoline engine, with a quality synthetic, I would shoot for 5k oil changes unless the manual said less. That said for a Turbo I would reduce it by 1k, and for GDI, I would also reduce by 1k. Your engine is going to be hard on oil in my opinion.
The thing is you don't want a bunch of combustion byproducts suspended in the oil on a GDI engine because when the crankcase gases go through the PCV valve the oil vapor gets reburnt, which potentially gunks up the valves with carbon. I am not sure if this particular engine occasionally sprays the valves off with some gasoline or not, but if not it is imperative you keep only a high quality synthetic oil that is in great condition in the engine at all times.
Why not SN+ , GF-5 for G.D.I. ? Can't be much difference in amount of additive(s) to get to SP , GF-6 qualification . Be interesting to see an side by side V.O.A. or U.O.A. or both for SHELL Rotella Gas Truck , PENNZOIL Platinum Pure Plus or other brand .
Similar threads
