Oil Recommendation - VQ35DE @ 110k

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You have bearing wear, you're straining in the EP area, your compression rings are not doing well. You have poor filtration on this engine and your deposits are likely an issue. Addressing this with a better oil can mitigate some of it, you're also going to need some fuel additives and a better UOA to determine how to proceed on oil selection and filtration selection, rather than having a bunch of people just throwing out oils, most having their cookie cutter formulas made by the same company.
 
Hmm, now I don't know what to think. Maybe I'll switch to whatever 5w30 is available and just do a UOA in a couple changes.
 
Run a oil flush. Berry mans chem tool for a 15 minute idle before changing the oil. Refill with 10w30 Valvoline Max life in the red bottle. Penzoil conventional 10w-30. Whatever you can find a good deal on and a Supertech filter. Run it for 3k and change oil. Use chem flush before you change if you want. Run another short oci. If you're stilly getting out really nasty stuff, then run another short oci.

When you are happy with what the drain looks like, then switch to M1 HM 10w-30 and a Fram ultra filter.

During the cleaning phase. Run a bottle of techron or GumOut regane through the gas. Follow next tank with a bottle of berryman's chemtool in the gas. Then do your oil change. The fuel additives help the oil turn very black in my experience so I recommend running them right before you change the oil.

This should clean as much as possible without tearing down the engine. I'll be running berryman's as a cleaning flush in mine before I change the oil in a couple months.
 
I have 198k miles on my Altima 3.5 VQ motor running a variety of 5w30 oils. I have not had any significant burning of oil with the motor in my car. I think that SilverFusion's suggestion is a good place to start from. I would run Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic 5w30 or Havoline Pro DS 5w30, Castrol Magnatec 5w30, Castrol 0w30 or 0w40, or Mobil 1 0w40. I have run almost all of these except the Mobil 1 0w30 and 0w40.
 
A few days late to reply but I don't get it, why do people insist on using synthetic and using viscosities that aren't recommended with these motors? I have an 03 G35 Coupe and have been using dealer bulk conventional 5w-30 (Castrol GTX) since day 1 and my VQ does not burn any meaningful oil within my 2000-3000km interval. I've also not had the valve cover leak and oil in the spark plug tube I keep reading about. At least 2 dealers I spoke with frown on synthetics and discourage it and so does my indy mechanic on the older VQ's. It's even in the owners manual, "Infiniti recommends mineral based oils" Why not just try a dino 5 or 10w30?
 
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If you have been running Amsoil signature most of the cars life, I doubt it has any significant deposits to speak of.

My wife's Quest has the VQ35, I have ran 0w40 in it since about 50k. Currently has Amsoil Signature series 0w40, last fill was Amsoil Euro Formula 0w40.
Currently has about 80k miles and was less than 1/3 quart down at 7500 miles before the last change.

If the Amsoils been working well for all these miles, why not become a preferred customer and get a better deal on it?
 
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Originally Posted By: NemesisBob
"Infiniti recommends mineral based oils"


Now THAT is interesting!! Anyone here know why Nissan is saying this?
 
I would like to see the Infiniti manual that states it prefers mineral oil. I am not saying g that what you stated is not true. I just would like to see a picture of it. I know my manual from 08 doesn't have this in it. Granted this 06 or 03 is a generation before mine. I think a oil like Castrol GTX 5w30 would be a fine choice as you stated here. Though remember that the latest version of almost all "conventional" oils are synthetic blends to a point. Castrol, Valvoline, and Havoline all mention that their conventional oils are synthetic blends in their PDS.
 
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I just picked up an 04 G35 coupe with 123k on the odometer, 1 previous owner.

Stated it doesn't burn oil, but I won't know til I run the car and check it myself.

IMO, I don't view this car/motor as anything special or fancy. This OCI has Maxlife in it. I'll monitor oil consumption over the next few OCI so I can get a feel for the health of the motor.

Both my rear spark plugs tubes had oil in them. Driver side had more than passenger. Read its a common problem. Hoping Maxlife can swell those seals up a bit.
 
Originally Posted By: NemesisBob
A few days late to reply but I don't get it, why do people insist on using synthetic and using viscosities that aren't recommended with these motors? I have an 03 G35 Coupe and have been using dealer bulk conventional 5w-30 (Castrol GTX) since day 1 and my VQ does not burn any meaningful oil within my 2000-3000km interval. I've also not had the valve cover leak and oil in the spark plug tube I keep reading about. At least 2 dealers I spoke with frown on synthetics and discourage it and so does my indy mechanic on the older VQ's. It's even in the owners manual, "Infiniti recommends mineral based oils" Why not just try a dino 5 or 10w30?


You change your oil every 3000km or 1800ish miles? You could probably use vegetable oil and it'll run OK for 1500 miles. My VQ40 is different (but pretty similar) to the VQ35 and the manual states 5k for "normal" service, and 3750 miles for "severe". Of course severe meets most peoples driving habits.
 
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Here's a page from the 2005 G35 Owner's Manual, which also says 5W-30 is preferred but allows 10W-30 and 10W-40 for temperatures above 0 degrees F.



My 2006 VQ35DE (298HP Rev-Up motor) does burn a bit over a quart of M1 0W-40 between 5K mile OCIs. The Rev-Up motors seem to have more consumption issues than other variants. I collect about 4-6 ounces in the catch can each cycle but there are no spark tube leaks and it easily passes CA emissions.
 
Thank you!!

Interesting indeed. Hey, a "mineral" oil is certainly cheaper and being that the API SN ILSAC GF-5 approved oil exceeds the API SL then that's a good way to go to. Only one thing of note to me is that the VQ motors have been known to shear the viscosity down. So, I wouldn't run over 5k miles on them. That's where the synthetic oils have a bit of an advantage that they hold up the viscosity better. A member on here ran Pennzoil Platinum for 10k plus miles and it was still in the 30 grade zone.
 
Originally Posted By: HemiHawk
Originally Posted By: NemesisBob
A few days late to reply but I don't get it, why do people insist on using synthetic and using viscosities that aren't recommended with these motors? I have an 03 G35 Coupe and have been using dealer bulk conventional 5w-30 (Castrol GTX) since day 1 and my VQ does not burn any meaningful oil within my 2000-3000km interval. I've also not had the valve cover leak and oil in the spark plug tube I keep reading about. At least 2 dealers I spoke with frown on synthetics and discourage it and so does my indy mechanic on the older VQ's. It's even in the owners manual, "Infiniti recommends mineral based oils" Why not just try a dino 5 or 10w30?


You change your oil every 3000km or 1800ish miles? You could probably use vegetable oil and it'll run OK for 1500 miles. My VQ40 is different (but pretty similar) to the VQ35 and the manual states 5k for "normal" service, and 3750 miles for "severe". Of course severe meets most peoples driving habits.



Yes, I change it every 2-3000km cause I only use the car for summer driving and store it in winter. That's about as much mileage I'll put on it, summers are real short here. I usually just get 1 oil change a year with a dino 5w30 just before I store it. Just not sure why everyone insists on synthetics on such old motors with tolerances that aren't as tight. The VQ35DE is a design first introduced in the late 90's early 2000's. The G35 forums are littered with people using all sorts of brews except what is recommended in the manual which is mineral oil.
 
Thanks for posting this, I tried posting the image and couldn't get it to work. Funny, many VQ owners don't believe it when I tell them. If Infiniti explicitly makes a note of it in the owners manual, it must be for a reason yet people with these old motors keep insisting on synthetics. Possibly the reason why some of these burn oil and some don't? Why argue with the guys who designed the motor?
 
I can see using synthetic during the winter months for the cold flow properties. Otherwise, from what I've read, these engines are nothing special and therefore need nothing special.
 
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