Oil recommendation/timing for Nissan ZD30 turbodoiesel

Shannow · Aug 29, 2003

I'm now seriously considering buying one, and am a bit concerned that the factory fill oil is not changed until 10,000km. (1000km service just checks levels).

I'm thinking of changing at 1000, then 5000.

It's a 3 litre, 110kW, direct injection turbo-diesel, with sump capacity of 6.9 litres.

Should I use Delo for its basestock, or longlife for its moly during the running in phase ?

Will probably live on Delvac 1 after 10,000km.

got boost? · Aug 29, 2003

there is nothing wrong with leaving the factory fill in it.

Shannow · Sep 21, 2003

I'm a wee bit confused with the various oil manufacturer's recommendations for the thing.

Nissan have the "No CG-4" statement in the book, but specify all up to and including CH-4.

Castrol 10W-40 GTX Magnatec SL/CF
Caltex Havoline Premium 20W-50 SL/CF (note not to use CG-4)
Mobil delvac 1330 or Delvac MX15W-40
BP Vanellus C4 global SG/CF-4
Valvoline Allfleet extra 15W-40 CE/CF

Why would all these oil suppliers specify other than the highest available diesel grade ?

ondoy · Sep 21, 2003

shannow, IMO you"re right to be concerned with the factory-fill engine oil running until 10,000 km before being changed. In all vehicles (Japanese-made) I have broken-in, both gas and diesel powered, the factory-fill oil is either replaced at 1,000 or 1,500 km. as specified in the user manuals.

Take the case of my Isuzu Trooper (Jackaroo), 3.0L, turbo-intercooled, common-rail DI, now clocking at 20,600 km., the user manual specifies the factory-fill oil to be replaced at 1,500 km., which I did. Funny, this advanced diesel engine only requires API CD, either 5W-30 or 10W-30 diesel engine oil. But I did not take chances; after the warranty period, I promptly drained the factory-recommended oil (BESCO Multi-Z 10W-30, API CD dino oil) and replaced it with Castrol Elixion, 5W-30, API CI-4 fully-synthetic diesel engine oil. For peace of mind.

If you are getting the Nissan ZD30 turbo-diesel, no matter what the user manual says, IMO you're better-off draining the factory-fill oil at 1,500 km and replace it with the same oil, until the break-in period is through.

Cheers.

Doug Hillary · Sep 21, 2003

Hi,
Shannow - I would change the oil at about 5kkms and I suggest you use Mobil MX

The idea of going to D1 at 10kkms is a good move
Another D1 change at 25kkms and by then the engine would have settled down. D1 is still out there in both CI and CH4 formulations. It is not always mentioned on the container's (20Lts) label

Best of luck
Regards

sprintman · Sep 22, 2003

Pennzoil LL 15W40 has good basestock and additive package and moly. Would be good till it's ready for D1 or Redline 15W40 diesel IMO.

Shannow · Sep 22, 2003

Thanks guys.

Pretty much confirmed where I think I should be headed.

Pick up the new toy on Friday if the forces are willing.

Shannow · Sep 27, 2003

Update......
seriously considering buying one resulted in picking it up yesterday morning.

sprintman · Sep 27, 2003

Good one. Now when diff/g'box etc are 'friendly' dump the OEM crap and get some decent (RL) oils in there and your p/s. There is a big difference IMO.

Shannow · Sep 27, 2003

sprintman,
that's where I was heading.

We were looking at second hand jobbies, when work offered us access to novated leasing rather than a pay rise.

I want to keep it for the next couple hundred thousand kilometers, so want to do it all right (Never had a new car before, so was alays playing "catch-up pool" with lubricants and maintenance)

sprintman · Sep 28, 2003

And don't forget Nitrogen for your tyres. Bob Jane has it. I went to Dubbo Saturday, tyres hardly got warm after 5 hr trip.

Robbie Alexander · Sep 28, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by sprintman:
And don't forget Nitrogen for your tyres. Bob Jane has it. I went to Dubbo Saturday, tyres hardly got warm after 5 hr trip.

Yeah but at what cost?
Around here it's bout 8 buX a tire.

sprintman · Sep 28, 2003

A$5.50 which includes Nitrogen sticker and a nice red valve cap. Pays for itself quickly with extended tyre life not to mention no more trips to the servo every week to pump your tyres up. That alone makes it worthwhile. Constant pressure and therefore handling another bonus.

Robbie Alexander · Sep 30, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by sprintman:
A$5.50 which includes Nitrogen sticker and a nice red valve cap. Pays for itself quickly with extended tyre life not to mention no more trips to the servo every week to pump your tyres up. That alone makes it worthwhile. Constant pressure and therefore handling another bonus.

You mean to tell me that it increases Tire life.
BY HOW MUCH ??? For real?

Oil recommendation/timing for Nissan ZD30 turbodoiesel

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