Oil Recommendation PLEASE & good to meet you all

Not open for further replies.
Sep 3, 2011
Denver, CO
Hello all: It is good to be part of a community I have seen and heard good things about. My name is oliver, like long stints in my engine, and cool oil baths. I have done searching and researching on oil and it leads me further down the rabbit hole. It is all very interesting. Help clear some things up but first I need a recommendation fast please. A lot will follow but there is a lot on my mind. A recap is at the bottom. Much thanks in advance. 1. What kind of vehicle you have 2000 Nissan Frontier 3.3l V6 2WD 2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as wellNo manual but I keep reading 5W-30. 3. Where you liveFun question. I currently live in Tallahassee, FL for the next week. I will be pulling a 6'x12' enclosed trailer packed FULL to Denver, CO and will be living there from here on out. 4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)I drive the speed limit. I like to get good gas mileage so i tend to accelerate somewhat slowly. I don't redline it or get to 0-60 in 2 seconds or anything. There are times when I will accelerate fast to get on the highway or to avoid a drunk college kid. I don't off road or pull trailers everyday. 5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)DAILY I use my truck for shorter trips to work and to jobs as I am a around town business owner. For moving to CO I will be pulling the above mentioned trailer packed full. 6. Whether your car has any known problemsLooks like a slight leak where the bell housing meets the oil pan. No room to see the exact spot of the leak but i believe it is the oil pan seal, maybe. I will check my trans fluid today to make sure it is not trans fluid. If you have any preferences -- synthetic vs. conventional, store-bought vs. ordered online, how long you'd like to go between oil changes, etc. -- or any other info you think might be important, let us know that as well. Sorry for the red but it helps break up my text. I like synthetic but find it daunting when there are 1,000,000 different stories. WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO SEE. I would like a SYNTHETIC that can stand up to the stress of pulling my trailer 2000miles packed full. Approaching winter I would like good lubrication at start up in cooler to cold climates such as CO. I do not want many VI's or thickening additives as it concerns me that an oil could go from 5w-40 to 5w-30 and cause poor lubrication at engine temperatures. I have 170,000 miles on my truck and bought it with 155,000 miles. Until now it has had dino oil in it; I have been putting.........in it since I have had it (but I have always liked synthetic). I changed out the distributor, valve cover gaskets, radiator, water pump, pulleys, starter, and seals for all of these fixes (I do all the work myself). I may have missed a fix or two. I would like a synthetic that has characteristics for keeping seals from shrinking. As I have read Moly and Boron(?) are great additives for this. If a leak comes from the synthetic cleaning out gunk then I will replace the seal. I am just fine with this BUT I do not want a synthetic, such as past synthetics, that will leech polys out of my seals. A question for confusion: Would I be better off in this situation to get a V synthetic and what would be examples of this? OR should I go with the III's that have dino oils in them. These II, II+, III, IV, and V confuse me. RECAP: 1) Synthetic 2) Pulling a trailer to CO from FL 3) Protect my seals (but I can fix ones that were previously damaged) 4) Good additive package (if needed. Hear Moly is good. Which one has this?) 5) Good cold weather characteristics...I can change oil when in CO to suit the weather or if towing destroys the oil I put in for the trip. 6) What weights are good for towing? AND please demystify the battle for keeping cold starting and up to engine temperature weights closer or if it matters as much as it sounds. EX: 5w-40 as opposed to 10w-40. I hope I have not missed anything but if I have please let me know. The three that I have narrowed down but I will erase this list if I am all wrong are: 1) Mobil 1 Extended Performance 2) Pennzoil Platinum 3) Chevron Supreme[/color]
Last edited:
Welcome to BITOG! I'm a newbie myself and have already received a ton of great information/opinions. The most I can provide is a link to your Owner's Manual. As far as your specific oil questions...I've always been a Mobil 1 fan, ordering online or buying locally should not yield much difference except in pricing depending on what you decide to go with. The conventional versus synthetic argument is going to go on for eternity. I am going to be changing my oil every 3,000mi due to all of the short distance driving I do. It sounds as though you may be in the same boat, so a shorter OCI may be best for you also. That's about all the oil advice I can give; however, the experts will chime in with a more educated opinion soon. Good luck! Fink
Mobil 1 5w30HM....would be my choice. Should help with seal swelling and help in stopping any current leaks. I would have a short OCI of about 3,500...because of the heavy trailer towing. After the 1st OCI and without the trailer....6000 +/- OCI's should be OK.
Mobil 1, PP, even QSUD would work fine for your trip to Denver. Depending on how much short trips you do around town in Denver, you may want to keep your OCI to 5k miles or say, 9 months. You are going to want to make sure you get the oil up to temp occasionally to burn off condensation. 5w-30 all the way. 2cents
Castrol Edge 5W-30 would be my choice, but out of your 3- M1 EP 5W-30
Last edited:
If it were me I would run 5w-30 Mobil Super 5000 for the trip. I recently used it in both of my cars. It didn't burn off so you shouldn't have to top off during the trip.
Not open for further replies.