The PS filter is a good idea. Flush the fluid (use CHF-11s or CHF-202, never ATF) in the rack and put a magnefine in the return line from the rack to the reservoir. The rack is pricey, and it requires dropping the subframe to R&R it. A giant PITA. Both my cars have a magnefine in the return line, and they both have original racks.
Also, if you get a PS pump noise (soft whine), it's likely the reservoir. There is a little hose that directs fluid back into the reservoir. It can fall off, causing aeration of the fluid, and subsequent whine. Both my cars have replacement reservoirs.
Both my cars have an external transmission cooler and get regular fluid changes. I posted pictures and discussion about the cooler, filter, and thermostat that I added to the T5 on Volovxc.com here: Transmission discussion
I rebuilt the entire front end on both cars, balljoints, strut mounts, strut bearings, struts, bushings, tie rods and rear shocks, too. Bilsteins on the T5. Lower control arm bushings are particularly perishable on this chassis. 80K tops, sometimes as little as 30K. Use only Lemforder or Volvo parts. Strut mounts and bushings are a common failure point, too. Bilsteins are firm but nice. IPD sway bars are awesome and make the car formidable in corners, particularly with good tires.
A rebuild with IPD bars, Bilsteins and all new front end parts will make a huge difference in how it handles. If you've got 16" wheels, then 17" wheels with 45-series tires will help steering response and cornering grip. You can go 18" and 40-series, but rough roads can kill those sidewalls and rims easily. 17" is a good compromise.
ECU reflash is good for about 30HP. An R-model exhaust manifold is good for about 10. A new downpipe adds a bit more. The factory airbox isn't restrictive, so skip the CAI, they just add noise. Make certain you do a "stage zero" refresh of everything before any mods go on. New plugs, filters, etc. use only iridium plugs. OE Volvo plugs are among the best.
Measure your front brakes. Chances are, you've got 280mm rotors. Upgrading to 305mm rotors is easy: new rotors, new pads, and the caliper mounting brackets from a T5 model that move your stock caliper to a new location and allow the bigger rotors. The 305mm rotors fit under 16" wheels. It's a modest, but noticeable, increase in braking power. Rock Auto sells those brackets for about $20 each. One per side. If you're already buying rotors, it's a cheap upgrade.
Also, if you get a PS pump noise (soft whine), it's likely the reservoir. There is a little hose that directs fluid back into the reservoir. It can fall off, causing aeration of the fluid, and subsequent whine. Both my cars have replacement reservoirs.
Both my cars have an external transmission cooler and get regular fluid changes. I posted pictures and discussion about the cooler, filter, and thermostat that I added to the T5 on Volovxc.com here: Transmission discussion
I rebuilt the entire front end on both cars, balljoints, strut mounts, strut bearings, struts, bushings, tie rods and rear shocks, too. Bilsteins on the T5. Lower control arm bushings are particularly perishable on this chassis. 80K tops, sometimes as little as 30K. Use only Lemforder or Volvo parts. Strut mounts and bushings are a common failure point, too. Bilsteins are firm but nice. IPD sway bars are awesome and make the car formidable in corners, particularly with good tires.
A rebuild with IPD bars, Bilsteins and all new front end parts will make a huge difference in how it handles. If you've got 16" wheels, then 17" wheels with 45-series tires will help steering response and cornering grip. You can go 18" and 40-series, but rough roads can kill those sidewalls and rims easily. 17" is a good compromise.
ECU reflash is good for about 30HP. An R-model exhaust manifold is good for about 10. A new downpipe adds a bit more. The factory airbox isn't restrictive, so skip the CAI, they just add noise. Make certain you do a "stage zero" refresh of everything before any mods go on. New plugs, filters, etc. use only iridium plugs. OE Volvo plugs are among the best.
Measure your front brakes. Chances are, you've got 280mm rotors. Upgrading to 305mm rotors is easy: new rotors, new pads, and the caliper mounting brackets from a T5 model that move your stock caliper to a new location and allow the bigger rotors. The 305mm rotors fit under 16" wheels. It's a modest, but noticeable, increase in braking power. Rock Auto sells those brackets for about $20 each. One per side. If you're already buying rotors, it's a cheap upgrade.
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