Oil Reccemondations :)

[Datarock]

Hey Everyone. I have been a long time non registered user who always browsed the forums for good reads.

I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent (1.6 GDI) Manual Trans. The book calls for either 5w-20 5w30 or 10w30. I moved two weeks ago to Texas from New Hampshire. I am thinking of switching over to 10w30 (I use PP) The book says it will reduce my MPG if I go to a thicker oil. But from what I have read from the Oil 101 from this website is the oil thickens to about the same at higher temps anyways.

So.

Would you use 5w-20 to save the MPG rating? (Getting 37-39 now mostly highway according to the Fuelly app)

Would you switch to 10w30 as I am in San Antonio Texas?

If you did switch what kind of MPG reduction should I expect?

 

[wolf_06]

I have an 08 accent, used 10w30 before, mileage was same pretty much, but it was slugish a bit more, so yes. I stick with 5w20. I liked pennzoil platinum 5w20, but I would lie to try synthec 5w20 too.

 

[4x4chevydude]

I would stick with the 5w20 personally I dont think that the engine will benefit from the thicker stuff anyway so why risk reducing the MPG.

 

[volk06]

Originally Posted By: wolf_06
I have an 08 accent, used 10w30 before, mileage was same pretty much, but it was slugish a bit more, so yes. I stick with 5w20. I liked pennzoil platinum 5w20, but I would lie to try synthec 5w20 too.


Holy commas batman!

 

[dave1251]

I believe English is not his first language.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: Datarock
Hey Everyone. I have been a long time non registered user who always browsed the forums for good reads.

I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent (1.6 GDI) Manual Trans. The book calls for either 5w-20 5w30 or 10w30. I moved two weeks ago to Texas from New Hampshire. I am thinking of switching over to 10w30 (I use PP) The book says it will reduce my MPG if I go to a thicker oil. But from what I have read from the Oil 101 from this website is the oil thickens to about the same at higher temps anyways.

So.

Would you use 5w-20 to save the MPG rating? (Getting 37-39 now mostly highway according to the Fuelly app)

Would you switch to 10w30 as I am in San Antonio Texas?

If you did switch what kind of MPG reduction should I expect?


No just follow your factory recommended grade of oil unless you modify your engine attempt to mask consumption issues or have another mechanical defect with your engine out of warranty that you are unable to resolve and a higher grade of oil may help mask some of those problems.

 

[RRA_223]

You probably do not have an oil temp guage, nor do you know oil pressure at operating temps?

Generally speaking, unless you are redlining the car and "racing" it - a 0w20 or 5w20 synthetic will last the year, giving you more than adequate protection at operating temperatures while decreasing cold start wear. You're probably not getting the oil hotter than 230*, with cold-start being a decent consideration for long-term care. Anything thicker is just reducing your MPG and efficiency for that vehicle.

Since you moved to texas, cold-start is not as critical, but I would still favor the 0w20 then 0w30 synthetic (which ever is readily available) since both have excellent protection at your operating range, with cold-start benefits too. I'd also change it yearly or ~10K miles; which ever comes first. I would also splurge on a high quality filter; but otherwise don't over-think it: for street vehicles, thinner is almost always better.

 

[tommygunn]

I think I read where those direct injected engines had a lot of fuel in the oil that really thinned it out. Normally I would say use the thinnest 5W20, but if that gets really diluted the 5W30 may be a better option.

 

[WMSmotorhead]

If it's not "broke" on 5w20, why fix it. If it's hotter than Hades, 5w30 will be fine. 10w30 won't hurt in the hot climates, but I don't see any advantage... other than if you already had some, or got some for free...

As thin as possible, as thick as necessary my friend... you will see that mantra around here often.

10w30 is for OHV lawnmowers... and our Dodge truck... that's the only reason it's on my shelf.

On the whole synthetic vs. conventional blast... Here's a practical take... Once out of the bottle and exposed to a motor, moisture contamination happens... so... if you drive LOTS, synthetic will run more miles between changes... if you DON'T... then conventional is cool.

Our plan at WMS's garage is... 6 months or 5k on good conventional, 1 year or 7500k on synthetic... and for the mega drivers... delivery and sales guys... Mobil 1 Extended Performance.. 15K mi or 1 year. We adhere to this and have been well rewarded.

Many folks like to try and get EVERY mile out of a motor oil... by having tests done and such... We just have our oil recycled or repurposed... it goes to either a recycler, or someone who wants to make HEAT out of it in the winter.. Thus I never feel we "Wasted" any of it.

If your Hyundai wants Ilsac GF-4 or GF-5, you have lots of options.... and most are good. Heck WPP and Amalie products can usually be had on the cheap, and hold up quite well in all tests.

Mag 1 or Wolf's Head abound at my garage... not because they are better or worse, but because they are certainly GOOD, and don't cost too darn much.

 

[Eddie]

Texas weather would probably drive Conservative me to 5w30 PP.

 

[ArtDart]

^^^^ this....do your engine a favor & use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30

 

[Datarock]

The 5w30 would be nice for the fact that my Versa only ask for 5w30. Would be nice to get the same type of oil. So two pluses in my book

 

[WMSmotorhead]

Cool. Isn't it nice when you have all the cars taking the same supplies?

I have 3 cars that take the same oils, and two of the 3 take the same filter... stocking up is easy!