Oil pressure light on a few seconds after change?
- Thread starter OceanRuns
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In my experience, yes. That extra time is filling up the filter I think. That's why when I change it myself, I try to fill the new filter before screwing it on.
Yes. It's because the oil pump isn't "primed" with oil to generate instant oil pressure. Since you drained the oil it takes just a little longer for oil to make it to the pump and from the oil pump to where the pressure sensor is located.
It's a 1000000% normal. I'm a former Honda dealer mech and now UPS diesel semi mech.
The oil pump has to push the air out of the filter until oil fills the filter and oil path.
These guys are right. There is mainly air in the oil system and filter after a change. After changing the oil on the many Mustangs I've owned with a needle gauge indicator, you can sit there and watch it lay on the bottom of the gauge and suddenly spring all the way up to normal. This takes a few agonizing seconds. I'm always sure to not rev the engine during this time.
The needle comes right up almost instantly during normal starting. But that first fire up after an oil change has the delay.
The needle comes right up almost instantly during normal starting. But that first fire up after an oil change has the delay.
The point to be learned here is that yes, indeed, the engine has NO OIL PRESSURE for a couple of three seconds or so upon the first start after an oil change. Let it idle. Don't rev it!
The unnerving thing about this is that an average car might run for a total of 1 to 3 MINUTES without oil pressure during its lifetime because of this problem. But I guess its not really a big deal.
The unnerving thing about this is that an average car might run for a total of 1 to 3 MINUTES without oil pressure during its lifetime because of this problem. But I guess its not really a big deal.
I had to wait what seemed an age for my Mercedes engine to sound normal after first start up after an oil change.
The cartridge filter cannot be pre filled
I had someone else start it so didn't take note of how long the oil pressure light stayed on. Will do so next time though.
The cartridge filter cannot be pre filled
I had someone else start it so didn't take note of how long the oil pressure light stayed on. Will do so next time though.
My regular mechanic in Denver, when I used to change my 420SEL's oil myself, suggested I disconnect the coil to distributor wire, then turn the key after replacing the oil and filter. The engine would crank for a bit, and I'd see the oil pressure needle rise. Then I'd hop out, reconnect the wire, and start the car up.
That's entirely normal. It should take less time with thinner oil. Therefore, use the thinnest oil recommended.
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
My regular mechanic in Denver, when I used to change my 420SEL's oil myself, suggested I disconnect the coil to distributor wire, then turn the key after replacing the oil and filter. The engine would crank for a bit, and I'd see the oil pressure needle rise. Then I'd hop out, reconnect the wire, and start the car up.
This actually seems to be a really bad practice. It will flood the engine, which will not only completely dilute the oil in the cylinders and prevent lubrication but also result in large amounts of black carbon over the spark plugs and in the cylinders.
My regular mechanic in Denver, when I used to change my 420SEL's oil myself, suggested I disconnect the coil to distributor wire, then turn the key after replacing the oil and filter. The engine would crank for a bit, and I'd see the oil pressure needle rise. Then I'd hop out, reconnect the wire, and start the car up.
This actually seems to be a really bad practice. It will flood the engine, which will not only completely dilute the oil in the cylinders and prevent lubrication but also result in large amounts of black carbon over the spark plugs and in the cylinders.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
My regular mechanic in Denver, when I used to change my 420SEL's oil myself, suggested I disconnect the coil to distributor wire, then turn the key after replacing the oil and filter. The engine would crank for a bit, and I'd see the oil pressure needle rise. Then I'd hop out, reconnect the wire, and start the car up.
This actually seems to be a really bad practice. It will flood the engine, which will not only completely dilute the oil in the cylinders and prevent lubrication but also result in large amounts of black carbon over the spark plugs and in the cylinders.
You're right. Holding the gas pedal to the floor, which shuts the flow of fuel to the injectors and cranking the engine might be a better idea. Assuming that's how that system works [it probably does].
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
My regular mechanic in Denver, when I used to change my 420SEL's oil myself, suggested I disconnect the coil to distributor wire, then turn the key after replacing the oil and filter. The engine would crank for a bit, and I'd see the oil pressure needle rise. Then I'd hop out, reconnect the wire, and start the car up.
This actually seems to be a really bad practice. It will flood the engine, which will not only completely dilute the oil in the cylinders and prevent lubrication but also result in large amounts of black carbon over the spark plugs and in the cylinders.
You're right. Holding the gas pedal to the floor, which shuts the flow of fuel to the injectors and cranking the engine might be a better idea. Assuming that's how that system works [it probably does].
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
My regular mechanic in Denver, when I used to change my 420SEL's oil myself, suggested I disconnect the coil to distributor wire, then turn the key after replacing the oil and filter. The engine would crank for a bit, and I'd see the oil pressure needle rise. Then I'd hop out, reconnect the wire, and start the car up.
This actually seems to be a really bad practice. It will flood the engine, which will not only completely dilute the oil in the cylinders and prevent lubrication but also result in large amounts of black carbon over the spark plugs and in the cylinders.
I'd have thought that -- but I had the car for 5.5 years and changed the oil with this method 8-10 times. The big 420SEL made it to almost 200K miles before it was totaled while parked. It ran like the proverbial top.
I never cranked it long in any case.
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
My regular mechanic in Denver, when I used to change my 420SEL's oil myself, suggested I disconnect the coil to distributor wire, then turn the key after replacing the oil and filter. The engine would crank for a bit, and I'd see the oil pressure needle rise. Then I'd hop out, reconnect the wire, and start the car up.
This actually seems to be a really bad practice. It will flood the engine, which will not only completely dilute the oil in the cylinders and prevent lubrication but also result in large amounts of black carbon over the spark plugs and in the cylinders.
I'd have thought that -- but I had the car for 5.5 years and changed the oil with this method 8-10 times. The big 420SEL made it to almost 200K miles before it was totaled while parked. It ran like the proverbial top.
I never cranked it long in any case.
LOL! Worrying about this is ridiculous. Your car will be fine.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
My regular mechanic in Denver, when I used to change my 420SEL's oil myself, suggested I disconnect the coil to distributor wire, then turn the key after replacing the oil and filter. The engine would crank for a bit, and I'd see the oil pressure needle rise. Then I'd hop out, reconnect the wire, and start the car up.
This actually seems to be a really bad practice. It will flood the engine, which will not only completely dilute the oil in the cylinders and prevent lubrication but also result in large amounts of black carbon over the spark plugs and in the cylinders.
I think you are overestimating the amount of "flooding" that will occur. There is not that much fuel entering the cylinders.
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
My regular mechanic in Denver, when I used to change my 420SEL's oil myself, suggested I disconnect the coil to distributor wire, then turn the key after replacing the oil and filter. The engine would crank for a bit, and I'd see the oil pressure needle rise. Then I'd hop out, reconnect the wire, and start the car up.
This actually seems to be a really bad practice. It will flood the engine, which will not only completely dilute the oil in the cylinders and prevent lubrication but also result in large amounts of black carbon over the spark plugs and in the cylinders.
I think you are overestimating the amount of "flooding" that will occur. There is not that much fuel entering the cylinders.
The idea of disabling the ignition, cranking a few seconds, the reconnecting the ignition is actually recommended in one situation. That situation was with turbo engines. I saw it in a training video that was made back in the 1980s, and they used a SAAB 900 as an example.
I was in automotive class back in 2006 when someone came in with a TDI VW Beetle. The automotive teacher looked for some sort of bypass on the fuel distributor pump, so he could crank the engine for a few more seconds before starting. Here in Florida, even if you never warmed your glow plugs first, a computerized direct injection diesel would always start quickly. If the engine used prechambers, and then you just cranked the engine before heating the glow plugs, you would have to crank the engine for a while before it would start, eliminating the need to disable the fuel system before starting.
When I had my 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T, I never heard of such a thing, so I never disabled the ignition before starting. I crashed the car early, so I don't know if I really harmed anything. I don't do this for my Mitsu either, and I have ~35,000 miles, so it will be a long time before I know if I harmed anything.
When I had my Saturn ION, the oil light would stay on as long as all the other warning lights did. It must have built up oil pressure very quickly. I think my dad's Pontiac G6 worked the same way.
My mom's 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6 does have the oil light stay on for 5 seconds after an oil change. While it is on, you can hear the hydraulic lash adjusters make terrible noises. After the oil change, I have never had a problem, it seems the ADBV always works well in the filters I use.
I was in automotive class back in 2006 when someone came in with a TDI VW Beetle. The automotive teacher looked for some sort of bypass on the fuel distributor pump, so he could crank the engine for a few more seconds before starting. Here in Florida, even if you never warmed your glow plugs first, a computerized direct injection diesel would always start quickly. If the engine used prechambers, and then you just cranked the engine before heating the glow plugs, you would have to crank the engine for a while before it would start, eliminating the need to disable the fuel system before starting.
When I had my 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T, I never heard of such a thing, so I never disabled the ignition before starting. I crashed the car early, so I don't know if I really harmed anything. I don't do this for my Mitsu either, and I have ~35,000 miles, so it will be a long time before I know if I harmed anything.
When I had my Saturn ION, the oil light would stay on as long as all the other warning lights did. It must have built up oil pressure very quickly. I think my dad's Pontiac G6 worked the same way.
My mom's 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6 does have the oil light stay on for 5 seconds after an oil change. While it is on, you can hear the hydraulic lash adjusters make terrible noises. After the oil change, I have never had a problem, it seems the ADBV always works well in the filters I use.
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