Oil pan rusting out?
- Thread starter Mark72
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Yes it can rust right through. You can scrape it and paint it or spray it with a rust fighting oil.
No it is not an indication that its a goner. You will have oil seeping long before it gets anything worthwhile in it.
I would recommend doing what Elvis said and trying to take care of the rust with some sandpaper or something and clean it up good and then paint it with something like POR15 or something cheaper if you want.
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Coating_p_8.html
Check this video out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hh5kYds6nkA
I would recommend doing what Elvis said and trying to take care of the rust with some sandpaper or something and clean it up good and then paint it with something like POR15 or something cheaper if you want.
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Coating_p_8.html
Check this video out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hh5kYds6nkA
How much is a junkyard oilpan if you can find one in good shape?
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
How much is a junkyard oilpan if you can find one in good shape?
I doubt that's a good option since the oil pan removal on some vehicles is pretty labor intensive.
How much is a junkyard oilpan if you can find one in good shape?
I doubt that's a good option since the oil pan removal on some vehicles is pretty labor intensive.
Yeah they were steel, and thin too. But the death of most of em up here in the rust belt isn't holes, its the thin metal around the drain plug warping from torque, and the drain plug not sealing right.... so common doorman makes new replacments
One of my Lincoln Mark VIII's was victim to an oil pan that was multiple pieces overlap welded together. I'll give you a guess as to what happened to those overlap welds when the snow was high enough to reach them.
I would suggest looking to replace the pan real soon. They aren't very thick, and once you start messing with the rust you might find you now have an oil pan that starts to seep, or worse. Ask me how I know. lol
Easiest attempt at stopping the rust would be:
Spray the (whole) pan with Fluid Film.
Put it on as thick as possible / respray as needed.
Just before Winter, brush on some Never-Seize where the rust is.
The Never-Seize shouldn't wash off over Winter.
I like Fluid Film because it will 'creep' thru the rust down to the base metal.
I also live in the Rust Belt.
My vehicle is 13 years old and the Engine & Transmission Pans still look brand new.
Spray the (whole) pan with Fluid Film.
Put it on as thick as possible / respray as needed.
Just before Winter, brush on some Never-Seize where the rust is.
The Never-Seize shouldn't wash off over Winter.
I like Fluid Film because it will 'creep' thru the rust down to the base metal.
I also live in the Rust Belt.
My vehicle is 13 years old and the Engine & Transmission Pans still look brand new.
The 2003 Ford Focus I had, had a very rusty oil pan. I scraped off the rust and treated it with rust jelly before painting it with rustoleum. Unfortunately during scraping I removed a big piece of rust that went through the oil pan and it started leaking oil.
I used epoxy to seal it up but could not do it 100%. There was a very small seep. I kept it that way since the seep ensured that the oil pan was coated with oil and therefore lasted me until I sold the car. I'm pretty sure the current owner still drives with that pan.
I used epoxy to seal it up but could not do it 100%. There was a very small seep. I kept it that way since the seep ensured that the oil pan was coated with oil and therefore lasted me until I sold the car. I'm pretty sure the current owner still drives with that pan.
YES! I have physically changed one or two that rust out.
You'd think the oil from changes wiped around or spread through the dirt would keep them from rusting.
Nope, rusts straight through.
You'd think the oil from changes wiped around or spread through the dirt would keep them from rusting.
Nope, rusts straight through.
Oil pan on the Mustang has been very rusted for many years. I would like to replace it but that requires either lifting the engine or dropping the k-member... So this year I took some white lithium spray and coated it thoroughly. No idea if that will work well, ok or not at all but I guess we'll find out.
Originally Posted By: buck91
Oil pan on the Mustang has been very rusted for many years. I would like to replace it but that requires either lifting the engine or dropping the k-member... So this year I took some white lithium spray and coated it thoroughly. No idea if that will work well, ok or not at all but I guess we'll find out.
If you coated it well enough it should slow down, but it might have been better to rub it down first, hit with high temp paint and then some waxoyl over the top
Oil pan on the Mustang has been very rusted for many years. I would like to replace it but that requires either lifting the engine or dropping the k-member... So this year I took some white lithium spray and coated it thoroughly. No idea if that will work well, ok or not at all but I guess we'll find out.
If you coated it well enough it should slow down, but it might have been better to rub it down first, hit with high temp paint and then some waxoyl over the top
Get a biggish lump of crumpled aluminium foil (takeaway food containers, maybe) and rub it with that, with a little vegetable oil.
Any oil will do, linseed best, sunflower ok, castor probably worst.
You can use the top/bottom of an aluminium can first as a scraper, and/or wire brush.
If you can be bothered to break out the power tools, you can also power-abrade with aluminium, but there's a bit more risk of going through if its very marginal.
If it has time to set, it probably won't wash off unless it gets significantly mixed with engine oil while you're applying it. Not too big a deal to re-apply annually anyway, assuming access is OK
PRO: Non-toxic, AND you don't have to buy anything. (I don't like buying things.)
CON: Non-toxic, BUT you don't have to buy anything. (Some people like buying things.)
Any oil will do, linseed best, sunflower ok, castor probably worst.
You can use the top/bottom of an aluminium can first as a scraper, and/or wire brush.
If you can be bothered to break out the power tools, you can also power-abrade with aluminium, but there's a bit more risk of going through if its very marginal.
If it has time to set, it probably won't wash off unless it gets significantly mixed with engine oil while you're applying it. Not too big a deal to re-apply annually anyway, assuming access is OK
PRO: Non-toxic, AND you don't have to buy anything. (I don't like buying things.)
CON: Non-toxic, BUT you don't have to buy anything. (Some people like buying things.)
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I've seen them rust out as well. Mother had a 89 Ford Bronco II 4wd(hah, who remembers those?) 2.9V6 and a 5 speed bought used. Shortly after we noticed it marking its territory in the driveway. New oil pan, clutch, and rear main seal (since I think you had to remove the trans to replace the pan?) it was golden. I would never try and patch something like that, even if it's a PITA to replace. Not worth risking...
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