Oil needs for Florida are no different?

[HangerHarley]

I am now in Florida. Its winter until "February" i guess (March?) here in NORTHERN FL, not the Panhandle either. But its still HOT here, if not so much for a few months. So should i be inclined to look for a thicker Oil for my car, once i get it down here?

All the threads i see about 5W-20 being fine for all cars (?) seem to apply to NEW cars 2008/9 and later or so, and not so much for old beaters.

Can old beaters SURVIVE paper-thin Oil in HOT weather? Or stick with a thicker one, like America's most purchased grade and brand, Quaker State 10w40, at WM?

And with QS sharing brand umbrella and formulation with Pennzoil/SOPUS, I can see why they do so handsomely well. QS seems to be as good as Pennzoil Conventional, people mention Pennzoil Conventional more.. So if to use Pennzoil Conventional in this example, wouldnt 10W-40 be a better choice for a used abused beater lets say a "Probe" than a thin 5w30?

Oh, I might never see my car again, too. That, or next year. This is just ponderance. Thank You.

 

[addyguy]

Florida cars survive just fine on 5W-20 oil.

Of course if you have a real old beater, with lots of miles and oil consumption issues, thicker oil like 10W-40 might make sense.

But if the car is newer, or runs fine, no need to use anything other than what is recommended.....

 

[Nick R]

5W-20 will be fine unless you have oil consumption issues, as addyguy said. Or if your car specs thicker oil.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: HangerHarley
I am now in Florida. Its winter until "February" i guess (March?) here in NORTHERN FL, not the Panhandle either. But its still HOT here, if not so much for a few months. So should i be inclined to look for a thicker Oil for my car, once i get it down here?

All the threads i see about 5W-20 being fine for all cars (?) seem to apply to NEW cars 2008/9 and later or so, and not so much for old beaters.

Can old beaters SURVIVE paper-thin Oil in HOT weather? Or stick with a thicker one, like America's most purchased grade and brand, Quaker State 10w40, at WM?

And with QS sharing brand umbrella and formulation with Pennzoil/SOPUS, I can see why they do so handsomely well. QS seems to be as good as Pennzoil Conventional, people mention Pennzoil Conventional more.. So if to use Pennzoil Conventional in this example, wouldnt 10W-40 be a better choice for a used abused beater lets say a "Probe" than a thin 5w30?

Oh, I might never see my car again, too. That, or next year. This is just ponderance. Thank You.


What's the difference in oil operating temperatures that you see versus someone else? It seems to me that oil temp is a lot more related to driving conditions (and your motor) than ambient temps.

I've never noticed a difference in operating temps between 30 and 90 degrees, but it doesn't really get hotter than that out my way. Maybe in really hot weather with really hard driving, you'd need to adjust your viscosity accordingly?

Get an oil temp gauge and you can answer your question yourself instead of speculating.

 

[bepperb]

I think once you achieve beater status you can go up a grade of oil, often necessary to minimize oil consumption.

Then again my last beater got 5-30 right into the ground at 213,xxx miles.

 

[mechtech2]

5-20s were being factory recommended long before 2008-9.

But yes, in general, a 5-30 can be used instead in warm climates.
I would do this if I got her real hot regularly.

 

[D189379]

Originally Posted By: JOD



What's the difference in oil operating temperatures that you see versus someone else? It seems to me that oil temp is a lot more related to driving conditions (and your motor) than ambient temps.




+1, A properly running car should run at the same operating temp in Florida as it does in Alaska. The only difference would be the oil flow at startup. I'd stick with whatever you were using before and not worry about it.

 

[flwxman]

Define old beater... what car are you talking about here? Late 90's, late 80's, and what was the car originally spec'ed for? I have all different grades up here depending on the vehicle. It does not get cold enough often enough here to necessitate the use of a 0W, a 10W would still work well here I would presume.

 

[JHZR2]

It all depends upon engine design as far as what the right viscosity is... temperature versus viscosity charts are nice if the manufacturer will give them.

Beyond that it is all about cold start flow. I recall reading that the push towards 5w30 vs 10w30 being used in all consumer vehicles for the most part was some studies GM performed that showed lower fuel consumption at cold starts in normal weather when 5 was used versus 10.

Since my BMW has an oil temperature gauge, il also put it this way - depending upon ambient temperature, the oils may take longer to warm up, but they always get to the same operating temperature regardless of if it is 30F or 95F.

 

[Jimmy9190]

I live here in Central Florida and use Quaker State 10W30 conventional year-round. I have had no trouble at all with it.

 

[bigmike]

To answer the question, Florida makes no difference on oil choice.

Go with what is specified for the car by the manufacturer.

 

[FL_Rob]

Originally Posted By: bigmike
To answer the question, Florida makes no difference on oil choice.

Go with what is specified for the car by the manufacturer.

+1

 

[tom slick]

Is 85*F a different temperature in January or July? Is 85*F a different temperature in Florida than in Texas, Arizona, or California?

 

[Ken2]

I looked at some temperatures for Gainesville, just a guess at a location in northern Florida. It shows average summer max around 90°F, which isn't too bad (ignore the discomfort of humidity for machinery). While 5W-20 is probably OK, depending on how long I planned on owning that car, I'd choose a heavier viscosity, probably a 10w30 for that climate and a 5W-40 for a very heavily worked truck.

Quote:
A properly running car should run at the same operating temp in Florida as it does in Alaska.

WHICH operating temperature? The coolant in the heads?...yes. The coolant leaving the radiator headed to the bottom of the cylinder water jacket?...no. The oil in the oil pan surrounded by ambient air?...no. The oil elsewhere in the engine?...depends on how hard the engine is worked.

 

[Nick R]

Originally Posted By: tom slick
Is 85*F a different temperature in January or July? Is 85*F a different temperature in Florida than in Texas, Arizona, or California?


Or 95 degrees in New York?

 

[Zaedock]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
Quote:
A properly running car should run at the same operating temp in Florida as it does in Alaska.

WHICH operating temperature? The coolant in the heads?...yes. The coolant leaving the radiator headed to the bottom of the cylinder water jacket?...no. The oil in the oil pan surrounded by ambient air?...no. The oil elsewhere in the engine?...depends on how hard the engine is worked.


X2.

 

[ahoier]

All depends on your vehicle really. I've gone year round with 5w30 personally thus far on my 2 Kia's and now this Dodge Aries. Even in this 88 Dodge Aries I plan on going year round with the 5-30 unless I encounter oil burn out, or oil consumption problems, but it's got a long life ahead, only a little over 30k on the clock

I know it can get quite cold here in FL.....so yea, for the winter months I'd stick to a 5W or perhaps a 0W if you want (check your owner's manual if under warranty)...I don't think a 10W is that necessary though in the cold months.....

 

[Dave Hess]

FL isn't too hot or cold, just stick with the factory spec oil.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Ken2

WHICH operating temperature? ...The oil in the oil pan surrounded by ambient air?...no. The oil elsewhere in the engine?...depends on how hard the engine is worked.


That hasn't been my experience. On my current car, I don't know if the temp sensor is in the sump (I believe it is). In other cars I've had though, I know the oil temp sensor was in the sump and ambient temps didn't have a measurable effect on engine oil operating temps, at least in the 30-90 degree range.

 

[D189379]

Originally Posted By: Ken2



WHICH operating temperature? The coolant in the heads?...yes. The coolant leaving the radiator headed to the bottom of the cylinder water jacket?...no. The oil in the oil pan surrounded by ambient air?...no. The oil elsewhere in the engine?...depends on how hard the engine is worked.


I don't know what your point is here other than to confuse the issue. Okay, I give, the oilpan temp in Florida might be a degree warmer than the one in Alaska. Thanks for bringing this gross oversight to our attention. Perhaps he should use a 50 weight oil?