Oil light on for a few seconds at cold start

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Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Because im changing it in a month or so...


Quote:
and no one can even afford a decent oil/filter change out of the gate?


That is correct. Please, if you will, read below...

Volvohead, we are doing what we can. I know it kills/pains you to read this. I know it offends your sensibilities. I know you get angry every time you log on and see me ask another question about the Volvo.

What I can say is that.. I am doing what I can, as soon as I can, and that is what I can do! It has been *thrust* into use! 14 hour days, sometimes! Band on the weekends! (Thats right.. my friend is a SINGER! Used to "get by" but, trust me.. this new-found freedom, and a comfy Volvo at that without getting into too many specifics about my friend, I am exercising more caution from here on out, just because its the right thing to doAnd this thing has to get to Maine!

I dont have anything against your posts, sir. Not one thing.

I simply need to bet on doing the small things, oil change in a month, and T-belt before trip to Maine.

I cant do much else. This car is "whatever works" and we have it now.. it is more complicated than "just a car," and we CANT leave it be.. Simply untouched.

It has to be a Volvo for us. We will reward it with everything it needs. I hope you can believe that. Sam is the guy.. and we have done busienss with him before. Check out his rating. http://www.yelp.com/biz/sams-auto-weymouth

I *promise* you I am not willfully ignoring your EXCELLENT advice, and it has been.. I am simply going day-to-day, doing *what I can do.* If its a week, or two weeks, that I can change that oil? Then that it will be.
 
GearheadTool,

There is no need to apologize to me or anyone else here for the decisions you make or your opinions.

It's a public motor oil forum. A thousand anonymous voices, and usually a thousand different opinions. Some here have very flimsy credentials and backgrounds for the opinions they give others to rely on. But most mean well. No one likes to see a sick or dying car.

More importantly, it's your money and your car. Free will and free market.

But I do think, based on all that you have posted, that this is probably a car you should not have bought. This is just my impression, but you appear to have used your entire budget to just buy the car, which is never a good idea with cars such as this.

If you can cocoon the car until the essential mechanical repairs can be done, you will avoid the risk of a death spiral of repairs as deferred ones cause major damage.

If you can't, then all you can do is hope it makes it. That is not a good approach to these things, considering the other options you may have had with your budget.
 
Surely the biggest risk.is running this vehicle with MMO in it for a long period of time. Especialky if it can reduce oil.pressure.

As the cost of oil so much cheaper in US and presumably Canada than it is in the UK then the expense is fairly insignificant?

Mentioning the oil.filter as the problem is a reasonable assumption.

However was the oil light doing this prior to the MMO treatment?

If it wasn't then the filter is not the problem.

Best advise I can give the OP and their friend is to get the oil and filter changed ASAP.

Cambelt can be put off for a short while, that is simply a calculated risk, if it doesn't snap it is all good.

Oil change being ignored can cause long term.engine problems.

To minimise risk of cambelt going ping is to keep the revs low and limit harsh increases in engine speed.

No situation is ever perfect. But Volvos are not known for.snapping cambelts when abused in the UK.

An oil change is less than a tank of fuel and with decent fresh oil and a new filter there may even be a slight improvement in fuel consumption. And I really do mean slight. Especially if the previous owner hasn't use the best oil and it isn't the correct specs for climate etc.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
What I can say is that.. I am doing what I can, as soon as I can, and that is what I can do!

Sounds like you're doing what you want and ignoring the good advice that was dispensed. You were advised multiple times to not use any oil additives, yet we've now learned MMO is in there.

It's your car and your money, so you can do what you like, but why bother asking for advice here when you're going to dismiss it anyway? Eventually, people will stop taking you seriously, if they haven't already.
 
Looks like this car has a cartridge filter (and a 3 pack with a wrench is like 25.00 from IPD) which probably means the ADBV is in the cap?

At any rate, theres no telling what oil, filter or additives are in the sump now, first step in diagnosis is to perform a change with a known oil/filter.

IMO The best advice that one could give you/your friend is to park this thing until the timing belt and other needed service can be performed. It looks like a nice car and it could well be a sound investment with proper maintenance. But when the timing belt breaks (the possibly 12 year old timing belt) then you might as well have thrown 2 grand out the window.

Stop spending money on MMO and Seafoam and start spending it on the stuff the car needs.
 
Well, my first priority is now to change the oil. I think I will go to Advance right now to inquire, laundry in the back and all.

I totally underestimated what MMO could do, and yes, I am now interested in getting it out of there, Quattro Pete.
 
And it really is a departure to not go putting MMO, Seafoam in gas, etc. I think if I slam the brakes on that NOW and get the oil out, ill be ok!

I think this car will get serviced this month. I know all the good people on here want to see it live. Believe it or not.. I do, too.
 
Any MMO in there would be HELPING, not hurting, with that start up light.
It would flow better at cold start up when you need it to.
You did no harm with your MMO in there, but there really isn't a need for it in the crankcase. It should only be used for special situations.

A oil filter can make this sort of thing happen. So can thick oil. And of course the sending unit may be lazy/faulty.


Turbocharged engines run hot oil temps compared to normally aspirated ones. A thicker oil is generally spec'd, and a full synthetic is wise because of the very hot local spots.
 
GT,

A turbo complicates cleaning things up with other than the oil. You can't compromise the lubricity of what oil is still getting through on a turbo. I don't think you can afford a gentle non-solvent ester cleaner like ARX. And I don't think a more aggressive solvent cleaner like Kreen is the best option with a turbo unless it's clearly at "death's door". And you may not even be able to afford that right now.

Although you'd be best off just parking it until funds permit the repairs, if you MUST run it, then a short interval change with either an HDEO or a high-detergency synthetic such as PP is a good idea. That was mentioned before. You can get those at any corner auto joint. Lay off the RL and Amsoil and other caviar grade oils - you can't afford them and they'll be wasted here, now.

If you can't afford to run to a Volvo dealer for an OE cartridge (that's what I would do, just this once), or order a Mann or Mahle from IPD or FCP, then the only locally-sourced one I trust in these is a NAPA Gold, which is a made-in-Poland Wix. It is not as good as the Mann or Mahle, but it is better than what you'll get at a chain store. You should only run this for a couple thousand miles, anyway.

Don't forget the new plug gasket.

I've encountered the pressure light coming on with these before when they're sludged up. If you're very lucky, it's sometimes just debris that has reached the sender. You want to get clean oil with a full, un-depleted additive package in there ASAP. I've also seen a fresh oil charge with a bottle of ARX turn off the lamp within 100 miles.

You'll probably need a series of short OCI changes to start cleaning this up, so at some point you might plunk down for a couple cases and a box of filters as previously recommended.

THE PROBLEM IS, to correctly clean up the engine, you will need to run it against the timing belt's best interest. You could snap the belt getting the engine clean. Then you'll have a dirty and broken engine. That is why it is better to mothball it until the belt is fixed.

But others are right, you seem to be all over the place in asking questions and then responding to the good advice given. Lots of guys here are giving you good advice and want to see you succeed, but then you jump to something else entirely contrary. Slow down, take a breath, and consider what folks here are telling you.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
GT,

A turbo complicates cleaning things up with other than the oil. You can't compromise the lubricity of what oil is still getting through on a turbo. I don't think you can afford a gentle non-solvent ester cleaner like ARX. And I don't think a more aggressive solvent cleaner like Kreen is the best option with a turbo unless it's clearly at "death's door". And you may not even be able to afford that right now.

Although you'd be best off just parking it until funds permit the repairs, if you MUST run it, then a short interval change with either an HDEO or a high-detergency synthetic such as PP is a good idea. That was mentioned before. You can get those at any corner auto joint. Lay off the RL and Amsoil and other caviar grade oils - you can't afford them and they'll be wasted here, now.

If you can't afford to run to a Volvo dealer for an OE cartridge (that's what I would do, just this once), or order a Mann or Mahle from IPD or FCP, then the only locally-sourced one I trust in these is a NAPA Gold, which is a made-in-Poland Wix. It is not as good as the Mann or Mahle, but it is better than what you'll get at a chain store. You should only run this for a couple thousand miles, anyway.

Don't forget the new plug gasket.

I've encountered the pressure light coming on with these before when they're sludged up. If you're very lucky, it's sometimes just debris that has reached the sender. You want to get clean oil with a full, un-depleted additive package in there ASAP. I've also seen a fresh oil charge with a bottle of ARX turn off the lamp within 100 miles.

You'll probably need a series of short OCI changes to start cleaning this up, so at some point you might plunk down for a couple cases and a box of filters as previously recommended.

THE PROBLEM IS, to correctly clean up the engine, you will need to run it against the timing belt's best interest. You could snap the belt getting the engine clean. Then you'll have a dirty and broken engine. That is why it is better to mothball it until the belt is fixed.

But others are right, you seem to be all over the place in asking questions and then responding to the good advice given. Lots of guys here are giving you good advice and want to see you succeed, but then you jump to something else entirely contrary. Slow down, take a breath, and consider what folks here are telling you.


Slowing down, taking a breather.

What I know most is that, within a week, I will be endeavoring to change the oil myself, if I have to. I will buy the tools, and I am keeping the oils listed as priority. I know you had GREAT advice on how to do that, may have gotten buried in posts. Also, correct: Can't afford Kreen. Probably Walmart oil purchase, more than likely. For a short clean-up OCI, and probably 5w30 as the grade. New filter, too. I will contact FCP Groton if I can, and if money permits me to mail order in advance. *Edit: Its either Pennzoil Platinum / Pennzoil Ultra or the ST with ARX. Either or. I can commit to that. Eventual goal is RL!

Please dont fault me/us, but I/we literally live paycheck-to-every-two-weeks paycheck at this time. The extra weekend income (singing, performing, trip to Maine, etc) is not mine to spend, but ill stop there, since that is personal information.

Also, since I amlost started a new thread, i wish to check/top off the ATF with Maxlife (Dexron III) however, the dipstick appeats stuck (heat-stuck and otherwise) to the tube. Yes< i found the tube.

I can give the car gentle use, my singer friend (working 14 hour day today, btw, and getting driven home in a company-provided Lincoln Town Car, which is a perk of OT - nice and non-specific) as a result. Volvo sees duty tomorrow morning, in the A.M. time.

I can pull out of this. I am a rambunctions fellow, and this Volvo really has me excited. I will make every effort, from here on out, to slow down and tackle things one at a time. I also want to check/top off that ATF.

I can do this. (repeats) I can do this.

And I just may, just may, go the Supertech 5w30 route with ARX. One bottle, correct Volvohead? I wonder if anyone is sellign an older bottle. The additive does not deteriorate with time? I would be very interested in using ARX, which recommends Supertech. 5w30 I imagine?
 
Dex III is fine for top off, if it needs it, and if you can find it. GM has moved on to Dex VI.

You're likely to find Dex VI at the chain stores, which works very well in these, and is a virtually guaranteed G-III fluid. Either is fine. Don't buy it if you don't need it.

Check the fluid hot. Don't add anything if it doesn't need it.

Start saving up $700-1,000 as fast as you can. That's what a complete timing belt service package usually costs if someone else does it. A sharp mechanic will likely recommend a new water pump at this time. If you can afford it, do it. It's the same as a t-belt job to replace a water pump later, and they do wear out. I know you don't want to hear this, but don't cheap out on the parts if given an option. Most of the cost is labor. Saving $25-50 on an $800 job is a fool's choice.

If you have a mechanic friend, you can remove the ABS module and send it out for another $100. That will solve your other ABS/speedo problem.

If you can get the car into a garage or other warmer ambient as the colder weather approaches, that might be a little easier on the T-belt at start-up.

All of that is in the other thread.

Again, go check over at Matthews Volvo site or Bay 13 (I think it is now part of Volvospeed), where all the routine basic tasks on these are described.

DuckRyder also gave some good links to IPD, which is also a good Volvo-centric place for information.
 
16 ounces of MMO in a 6 qt sump is not going to make a 30 grade oil into a 20 grade oil. It might bring a 30 grade toward the lower end of the scale but it will still be a 30 grade oil. MMO will also aid in cold starts not hurt them like Lucas or STP would.

I'd try an OEM filter and a fill of the oil spec'd for the engine [unaltered] and get a mechanical OP gauge and see what is happening with the oil pressure. JMO
 
One other thing that you never answered.

Did you ever pull the Carfax? Besides Carfax, your DOT may have some other free resources to track the title history. If you can ID the selling dealer, they may still have the service history on their computer. You might get real lucky and find that the original owner did some major maintenance after all. Not knowing that, you must presume the worst to protect your investment.

Do that now, if you can.
 
You can't say the MMO is helping until the OP confirms if the light started staying on after the MMO was added.

As the light was mentioned well after purchase I suspect it did indeed start occuring after MMO treatment.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
16 ounces of MMO in a 6 qt sump is not going to make a 30 grade oil into a 20 grade oil. It might bring a 30 grade toward the lower end of the scale but it will still be a 30 grade oil. MMO will also aid in cold starts not hurt them like Lucas or STP would.

I'd try an OEM filter and a fill of the oil spec'd for the engine [unaltered] and get a mechanical OP gauge and see what is happening with the oil pressure. JMO


The range for a 20-weight is 5.60-9.29cSt. If we use the 10% figure for MMO, we end up with an oil that is 8.8cSt, well within the 20-weight range.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool


And I just may, just may, go the Supertech 5w30 route with ARX. One bottle, correct Volvohead? I wonder if anyone is sellign an older bottle. The additive does not deteriorate with time? I would be very interested in using ARX, which recommends Supertech. 5w30 I imagine?


You're doing it again.

If you can't afford Kreen, you certainly can't afford to mess with ARX. You just don't have the resources for trying additives, and that's no disrespect intended.

Just change the oil as described above, and start saving - fast - for the timing belt job.
 
Thanks, everyone.

I honestly think I am either going to 1. Get the oil change kit that DuckRyder posted, or 2. Just pay Sam to change the oil and filter. I actually may want to try giving the oil filter change a shot, and order the filter from FCP Gropton, trying OEM or the Mahle/Mann. I need to doublecheck but I thought Advance carried Mahle or Mann. I will then check the cold-start behavior, and then I will have the tool and be one step ahead of the game to check the oil.

Consider the ~$1000 saved. And I may bring the car to Sam to let him know to be expecting it soon. The reviews are tha the is honest, to a fault!

This Volvo can be saved. I will also check out the Carfax thing, though I need to spend the money on the oil filter/oil first. PP or T6.
 
The parts for an oil change are really cheap...even the dealer only charges about $12 for the factory filter, which includes the o-ring, and they'll throw in the drain plug gasket, usually...then, you just need 6 Qts. Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 would be my choice - right viscosity, high quality, good cleaning, off the shelf, easy to find, not too expensive - you want that turbo happy...there is no ADBV on this cartridge set-up...so, your best fix for the oil pressure light is a change with the good stuff. Don't forget to buy the cartridge wrench...I've seen them as low as $12...

Start saving for the t-belt, and make sure you get the idler and the tensioner as well...they've been in for 100,000 miles (+) and are equally worn. Again, dealer isn't too bad, IPD might be cheaper, FCP Groton (now FCP Euro) might be cheaper still...my local AAP has Mann (I think, could be Mahle) and they have the filter for this car...but they want MORE than the dealer...so.... You're tight on funds (we all are...just to varying degrees...), so use the web to shop.

The t-belt is not a super hard job on this car. I've done a couple of P2 cars (same motor, different chassis)...takes an afternoon...and some guys claim that you can do this job without pulling the harmonic balancer/pulley...which is half the work...

Spend some time on www.volvoxc.com - as I suggested, and get an idea of what's involved in this.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
16 ounces of MMO in a 6 qt sump is not going to make a 30 grade oil into a 20 grade oil. It might bring a 30 grade toward the lower end of the scale but it will still be a 30 grade oil. MMO will also aid in cold starts not hurt them like Lucas or STP would.

I'd try an OEM filter and a fill of the oil spec'd for the engine [unaltered] and get a mechanical OP gauge and see what is happening with the oil pressure. JMO


The range for a 20-weight is 5.60-9.29cSt. If we use the 10% figure for MMO, we end up with an oil that is 8.8cSt, well within the 20-weight range.


Would it be 10% in a 6 qt sump? Not busting balls just asking.
 
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