So, was the oil light staying on at startup prior to the MMO then?
Oil light on for a few seconds at cold start
- Thread starter GearheadTool
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This is the right thing to do.
Nobody here is trying to rain on your parade, or Tina's, but allowing certain services to pass on by can be fatal.
The timing belt service is one of them.
I hope you'll keep us posted on how things go with this car, and I'd love to read here a few years down the road that the Volvo has passed through 200K and it has given you a DIY education in the process.
Good luck, and get that 1K together quickly so that you can at least get the potentially fatal stuff taken care of.
For now, buy a proper filter and change that oil.
You could use a proper forty grade syn for reasonable money.
Walmart has Rotella T6, Delo 5W-40 and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck for around $20.00/gallon. Buy two gallons and you'll have plenty for a change as well as some left for top-offs.
Not cheap, but a start down the road in properly caring for this car.
Nobody here is trying to rain on your parade, or Tina's, but allowing certain services to pass on by can be fatal.
The timing belt service is one of them.
I hope you'll keep us posted on how things go with this car, and I'd love to read here a few years down the road that the Volvo has passed through 200K and it has given you a DIY education in the process.
Good luck, and get that 1K together quickly so that you can at least get the potentially fatal stuff taken care of.
For now, buy a proper filter and change that oil.
You could use a proper forty grade syn for reasonable money.
Walmart has Rotella T6, Delo 5W-40 and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck for around $20.00/gallon. Buy two gallons and you'll have plenty for a change as well as some left for top-offs.
Not cheap, but a start down the road in properly caring for this car.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
16 ounces of MMO in a 6 qt sump is not going to make a 30 grade oil into a 20 grade oil. It might bring a 30 grade toward the lower end of the scale but it will still be a 30 grade oil. MMO will also aid in cold starts not hurt them like Lucas or STP would.
I'd try an OEM filter and a fill of the oil spec'd for the engine [unaltered] and get a mechanical OP gauge and see what is happening with the oil pressure. JMO
The range for a 20-weight is 5.60-9.29cSt. If we use the 10% figure for MMO, we end up with an oil that is 8.8cSt, well within the 20-weight range.
Would it be 10% in a 6 qt sump? Not busting balls just asking.
Not quite, it would be close to 9%.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
16 ounces of MMO in a 6 qt sump is not going to make a 30 grade oil into a 20 grade oil. It might bring a 30 grade toward the lower end of the scale but it will still be a 30 grade oil. MMO will also aid in cold starts not hurt them like Lucas or STP would.
I'd try an OEM filter and a fill of the oil spec'd for the engine [unaltered] and get a mechanical OP gauge and see what is happening with the oil pressure. JMO
The range for a 20-weight is 5.60-9.29cSt. If we use the 10% figure for MMO, we end up with an oil that is 8.8cSt, well within the 20-weight range.
Would it be 10% in a 6 qt sump? Not busting balls just asking.
Not quite, it would be close to 9%.
Originally Posted By: bigjl
So, was the oil light staying on at startup prior to the MMO then?
Unknown.
I could video it, but, my bet will be that, on the first start, it will be on for 2-3 seconds, then go/stay off.
If you want to see video of this then please let me know and I will make it happen, tomorrow when car is started.
So, was the oil light staying on at startup prior to the MMO then?
Unknown.
I could video it, but, my bet will be that, on the first start, it will be on for 2-3 seconds, then go/stay off.
If you want to see video of this then please let me know and I will make it happen, tomorrow when car is started.
Ok, I figured out it is a 2.4 LPT.
I have been debating takign the car to Sam's for an oil change. http://www.yelp.com/biz/sams-auto-weymouth Amd, as simple as that may sound.. It is all about the $$$ availability.
I will look for the OP light for a few seconds on start this morning. That filter, even if not the oil, is my #1 concern, short-term immediate, all things considered. I even found out where on the engine it is!
EDIT: Given the opportunity and if I have the tools, I will do oil changes myself. I read loud and clear about rplacing the washer/o-ring on drain bolt, every time. Its monney vs tools/time/availability, and I still have more of the latter than the former. Though Sam will see the car in time.. We cant get it to him yet.
And I promise to post pics of any tasks undertook. You can see I am snap-happy.
I have been debating takign the car to Sam's for an oil change. http://www.yelp.com/biz/sams-auto-weymouth Amd, as simple as that may sound.. It is all about the $$$ availability.
I will look for the OP light for a few seconds on start this morning. That filter, even if not the oil, is my #1 concern, short-term immediate, all things considered. I even found out where on the engine it is!
EDIT: Given the opportunity and if I have the tools, I will do oil changes myself. I read loud and clear about rplacing the washer/o-ring on drain bolt, every time. Its monney vs tools/time/availability, and I still have more of the latter than the former. Though Sam will see the car in time.. We cant get it to him yet.
And I promise to post pics of any tasks undertook. You can see I am snap-happy.
Well, today the oil light didnt seem to come on at startup, but the CEL did.
I will endeavor today to see if it goes back off.
I will endeavor today to see if it goes back off.
Hi there.
I just wanted to update everyone, that..
1. CEL is off, Code P1633 went away upon scan with scan tool.
2. Oil light did not stay on for a few seconds yesterday and I will soon know if it does it again this morning, or not.
3. The oil filter change is something I was irrationally afraid of. Now, iof the drain pan bolt is in a similarly easily accessible location, then its no prob. (I imagine it is on the oil pan.)
Ill let you all know.. This Volvo is good to us, and it will be repaid in kind.
And yes, we are saving for the T-belt.. I wonder if I can do ABS sensor myself? ? ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-XC70-V70-V...778&vxp=mtr
And my doublecheck of the ATF seems to indicate a *touch* low, maybe a half quart. And if Maxlife fits the bill (Dexrom III, works for me; Maxlife is Dex/Merc) then I may try that tomorrow (money as it comes, $2.63 plus coins until tomorrow night.) And yes, that is still enough for a quart of Maxlife ATF.............. And I have a funnel...
I know: Drive 1/2 hour, shift though all gears (you have to?), level surface, engine hot, check, check again. Also, the engine oil is at good level, though I will still change filter as soon as I can.
I just wanted to update everyone, that..
1. CEL is off, Code P1633 went away upon scan with scan tool.
2. Oil light did not stay on for a few seconds yesterday and I will soon know if it does it again this morning, or not.
3. The oil filter change is something I was irrationally afraid of. Now, iof the drain pan bolt is in a similarly easily accessible location, then its no prob. (I imagine it is on the oil pan.)
Ill let you all know.. This Volvo is good to us, and it will be repaid in kind.
And yes, we are saving for the T-belt.. I wonder if I can do ABS sensor myself? ? ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-XC70-V70-V...778&vxp=mtr
And my doublecheck of the ATF seems to indicate a *touch* low, maybe a half quart. And if Maxlife fits the bill (Dexrom III, works for me; Maxlife is Dex/Merc) then I may try that tomorrow (money as it comes, $2.63 plus coins until tomorrow night.) And yes, that is still enough for a quart of Maxlife ATF.............. And I have a funnel...
I know: Drive 1/2 hour, shift though all gears (you have to?), level surface, engine hot, check, check again. Also, the engine oil is at good level, though I will still change filter as soon as I can.
Now you have added MMO any new video is irrelevant. My point was if the oil light wasn't coming on prior to MMO then the MMO is the cause, if the oil light always stayed on then MMO has not created an issue.
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
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Please dont fault me/us, but I/we literally live paycheck-to-every-two-weeks paycheck at this time. The extra weekend income (singing, performing, trip to Maine, etc) is not mine to spend,
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Apologies in advance if this comes across as rude, but I hope you have a Plan B for when this vehicle leaves you or your friend on the side of the road or stuck in a parking lot.
If you are already having all these glitchy problems, you may well be only one inexpensive sensor failure away from a no start condition that may reveal itself as soon as temperatures dip a bit overnight or some afternoon. Not to mention that timing belt situation. Or your battery will check out at the first cold snap.
In addition to all the other things for this car, I'd keep enough cash money in the glovebox to get you or your friend home from wherever it strands you. This will probably happen in Maine or some other time when it is least convenient.
Around here, if you don't get your car off the road within 24 hours of it being tagged, then a wrecker gets it and they have a fair amount of legal protection to charge highway robbery to get the car back. And the longer they have it, the worse it gets. Your friend works at a law firm, but the law's the law - most of these guys are used to getting intimidating letters and phone calls and it just rolls off their back. I'll guess that you're renting as well, and your lease may prohibit Volvo lawn ornaments. It would if I wrote it.
And the first thing I would do would be to pull apart every electrical connection in the wiring harness and every ground point that I could get to on that old car, and clean the contact points such that you are certain that you have good low resistance connections across them. You probably can't afford DeOxit, but WD40 will work just fine at this point. People always whine about electrical problems on European cars - in my experience they are virtually always caused by a module that is well known to have design or manufacturing defect issues and is easily resolved - e.g. the ABS module you have been repeatedly informed about it - high resistance connections in the wiring harness, also easily resolved, or a battery that drops below a threshold voltage on start up load and causes all kinds of codes to set.
So, anyway, not trying to be jerk, best of luck with the car. You're fortunate that there are a few people here that really seem to know this era Volvo well. Maybe greater consideration should be given to what they are suggesting to you.
....
......
Please dont fault me/us, but I/we literally live paycheck-to-every-two-weeks paycheck at this time. The extra weekend income (singing, performing, trip to Maine, etc) is not mine to spend,
.......
Apologies in advance if this comes across as rude, but I hope you have a Plan B for when this vehicle leaves you or your friend on the side of the road or stuck in a parking lot.
If you are already having all these glitchy problems, you may well be only one inexpensive sensor failure away from a no start condition that may reveal itself as soon as temperatures dip a bit overnight or some afternoon. Not to mention that timing belt situation. Or your battery will check out at the first cold snap.
In addition to all the other things for this car, I'd keep enough cash money in the glovebox to get you or your friend home from wherever it strands you. This will probably happen in Maine or some other time when it is least convenient.
Around here, if you don't get your car off the road within 24 hours of it being tagged, then a wrecker gets it and they have a fair amount of legal protection to charge highway robbery to get the car back. And the longer they have it, the worse it gets. Your friend works at a law firm, but the law's the law - most of these guys are used to getting intimidating letters and phone calls and it just rolls off their back. I'll guess that you're renting as well, and your lease may prohibit Volvo lawn ornaments. It would if I wrote it.
And the first thing I would do would be to pull apart every electrical connection in the wiring harness and every ground point that I could get to on that old car, and clean the contact points such that you are certain that you have good low resistance connections across them. You probably can't afford DeOxit, but WD40 will work just fine at this point. People always whine about electrical problems on European cars - in my experience they are virtually always caused by a module that is well known to have design or manufacturing defect issues and is easily resolved - e.g. the ABS module you have been repeatedly informed about it - high resistance connections in the wiring harness, also easily resolved, or a battery that drops below a threshold voltage on start up load and causes all kinds of codes to set.
So, anyway, not trying to be jerk, best of luck with the car. You're fortunate that there are a few people here that really seem to know this era Volvo well. Maybe greater consideration should be given to what they are suggesting to you.
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