Oil for vintage Mopars

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Hello, BITOG... I used to be a frequent poster/reader on here, but I've been pretty inactive for a few years and am a bit out of the loop on the current state of oils. Cutting to my question:

What's the current recommendation for a good, solid Xw40 or thickish Xw30 oil for a couple of stock(ish), non-raced, well-broken-in but very clean internally Mopar 440s with reproduction "Magnum/Commando/Roadrunner" hydraulic flat tappet cams, and stock valve springs?

A little more detail: Both of these engines ran on Rotella T6 5w40 for 10-15 years, and I had no complaints. I'm not one to go into a big panic over reduced ZDDP levels on basically stock engines, but the changes in API oils, including RT6, gave me a little pause. I searched on here for a recent VOA of the newest version, but found nothing other than a lot of chatter about "Rotella Gas Truck" oil, which is definitely NOT the right direction. So I'm just kinda looking at options. I ran an OCI of Royal Purple HPS in all of my cars, and I actually noticed a fairly significant jump in consumption, not just on the two weekend-driven 440s, but on my (now well out of warranty) SRT-8 392. So probably no more RP for me. The SRT will probably just go back to M1 0w40, but I'm undecided on the 440s.

So... is RT6 still a good option? Amzoil Z-rod (only available in 10w30 or 20w50)? Redline? If so, which one? Expense isn't an issue, really, since these cars rarely get more than one oil change a year, if that. I'm not really willing to go crazy with the trendier race oils like Driven. I 'd rather stick to the big refiners and blenders, or at least older boutique blenders like Amsoil or Redline. I would even consider sticking with RP HPS since I know its got a decent additive package, but I'm really disappointed that all the poor NOACK tests I've seen really seem to be reflected in my real-world experience.
 
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I'd use a full-saps 5W40 Euro oil stating BMW LL01 on it. A BMW LL01 0W40 would work well, too, even though it isn't needed in Texas.
 
Originally Posted by Rob_Roy
Any 15w-40 HDEO will work fine in that application. No need for a synthetic.


Not needed... they lived for decades on Group II oils before I had them, after all. But after all the work I've done and the current state of the art, they're going to get synthetics anyway. No reason not to given the infrequent changes.
 
Keep going with the Rotella T6 5W40, they have changed the formula but it still has ample ZDDP and it passes better wear tests than before. I found these zinc values in the VOA / UOA section here

Rotella T6 5W40
CJ4 ~ 1390 ppm
CK4 ~ 1199 ppm

A typical ILSAC GF-5 oil would have about 750 ppm Zn, and Euro A3/B4 oils typically have about 1000 ppm zinc.
 
I am running Rotella T in our '68 L36 Vette and '65 4-4-2, both really original.
If I ever pull those mills apart again I am gonna stab a mild hyd roller.
 
Originally Posted by SR5
Keep going with the Rotella T6 5W40, they have changed the formula but it still has ample ZDDP and it passes better wear tests than before. I found these zinc values in the VOA / UOA section here

Rotella T6 5W40
CJ4 ~ 1390 ppm
CK4 ~ 1199 ppm

A typical ILSAC GF-5 oil would have about 750 ppm Zn, and Euro A3/B4 oils typically have about 1000 ppm zinc.


So the CK4 is the current production version, correct? If so, that's about all I needed to hear. Thanks, and I guess I *still* can't wring maximum effect out of the search engine on this board... :p
 
Mobil1 HM 10w-30 would be a good choice with an HTHS of 3.5, ACEA A3/B3 (high SAP) and it's on the thick side. I'm not familiar with M1 0w-40 but others have recommended it. All available from WalMart. I just switched my flat tappet F150 from years of M1 HM 10w-30 to SuperTech syn 5w-30 for a try. Engine runs smoother, quieter and peppier. I'm not recommending it for your 440 but I may stay with it.
 
Ditto on Driven 10W-30 on Amazon $28.63/case. You have to dig a little. It's listed more than once at a higher price. Says it won't ship right away but it's Amazon, not a third party. It's conventional oil but I'm sure it will work depending on how often you change it.
 
Originally Posted by Randy_R
Ditto on Driven 10W-30 on Amazon $28.63/case. You have to dig a little. It's listed more than once at a higher price. Says it won't ship right away but it's Amazon, not a third party. It's conventional oil but I'm sure it will work depending on how often you change it.

Not pushing Driven but there is another thread with a link to the Amazin listing in active threads.
 
Originally Posted by 440Magnum
Originally Posted by SR5
Keep going with the Rotella T6 5W40, they have changed the formula but it still has ample ZDDP and it passes better wear tests than before. I found these zinc values in the VOA / UOA section here

Rotella T6 5W40
CJ4 ~ 1390 ppm
CK4 ~ 1199 ppm

A typical ILSAC GF-5 oil would have about 750 ppm Zn, and Euro A3/B4 oils typically have about 1000 ppm zinc.


So the CK4 is the current production version, correct? If so, that's about all I needed to hear. Thanks, and I guess I *still* can't wring maximum effect out of the search engine on this board... :p



This is the VOA link you are after
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4490450/

Yes CK4 is the new stuff
 
I'd run Schaffers Supreme 9000 Full Synthetic 5W-50 get a 5 gallon pail on amazon (about 150 ish) or through your local Schaeffer's rep

https://www.schaefferoil.com/race-engines.html


Mopar oil filter and
thumbsup2.gif
 
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I use and also sell TEXAS REFINERY this is a question i get from many customers that have older Muscle Cars.

I myself have a 66 Mustang with a Mild Built 289 and a 2 454's in a Offshore boat both pre Roller Cam.

I suggest TRC PRO SPEC III W/MOLY to my customers who ask me what to use.

1440 PPM of ZINC

Our oils and Products will not disappoint.

Thanks,
Steve Is The Oil Guy.com
 
Originally Posted by BeerCan
I used either Vavoline 15w40 or 5w40 hdeo in mine when I had it


IIRC from watching "Graveyard Carz", this is Worman's recommendation to his customers (who have just paid him well into 6 figures for a full OEM restoration)
 
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