SuperTech oil and filter (aka cheap) and change it every 2000 miles.
Oil for Sludge prone Chrysler 2.7L V6 - ur recommendation Please
- Thread starter va3ux
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I had to have the timing chain and tensioners replaced at 50,000 miles on my 2.7 Intrepid. I noticed it started hard (funny) one morning. I was due for an oil change, so I brought it into the stealership. They checked it out and basically told me I was a lucky SOB to have brought it in just in time. I do 3000 mile oil changes. This is a company car, so I don't baby it, but its obviously not a track car. It is my understanding that the sludging blocks passages that lube the chain/tensioners and that is why they go bad. Unless they unblocked the passages, it will go bad again in short time. Good thing I got a new company car...Pontiac Grand Prix GT.
Only thing I would run in this engine after an Auto-Rx would be Mobile 1 5W-30 EP at 5000 mile intervals (or shorter)
We have a Concorde (98) with the 2.7 engine. I have always used synthetic (mostly M1). The car has over 140,000 on it now, and still runs very well, except for a bit of smoking due to bad valve seals. The water pump went out on it last spring. That was $1250 to have replaced. ~$450 in parts the rest in labor (not a fun job to do on this car).
va3... your XD 0w30 is actually thicker than your 5w30 at start up. This is true until the temps get really really cold, say -20 F then the 5w30 will start to thicken at a faster rate than the 0w30. At some point as you get much colder the 0w30 will still flow, but the 5w30 won't.
That's why in my area of the country, I run M1 5w30 in the winter rather than a thick 0w30 such as GC. We get cold, but most of my cold starts are around 0 or -10F in the winter. At those temps, the M1 5w30 will flow better than the GC. If the temps get down below -20F or so, then the 0w30 would be a better choice for me. If I lived North of the boarder in Mannitoba, I would more than likely go with the XD0w30!!
That's why in my area of the country, I run M1 5w30 in the winter rather than a thick 0w30 such as GC. We get cold, but most of my cold starts are around 0 or -10F in the winter. At those temps, the M1 5w30 will flow better than the GC. If the temps get down below -20F or so, then the 0w30 would be a better choice for me. If I lived North of the boarder in Mannitoba, I would more than likely go with the XD0w30!!
Ross (or anyone else),
How did you determine that the 0W-30 is thicker than 5W-30 at temps above sya -20 ? What are you looking at on the spec sheets that shows this ? I've been meaning to delve into this further and it looks like now is as good a time as any .
Thanks...Phil
How did you determine that the 0W-30 is thicker than 5W-30 at temps above sya -20 ? What are you looking at on the spec sheets that shows this ? I've been meaning to delve into this further and it looks like now is as good a time as any .
Thanks...Phil
Read this thread:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=51;t=000534;p=1#000020
Look at the my post with the chart (not mine)
The XD0w30 is somewhat close to the GC0w30. Then read on to see what blue has to say.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=51;t=000534;p=1#000020
Look at the my post with the chart (not mine)
The XD0w30 is somewhat close to the GC0w30. Then read on to see what blue has to say.
how about addind a bottle of atf on ur next flush. atf has for detergents than motor oil
Ross,
Thanks for the link to the thread.
Phil
Thanks for the link to the thread.
Phil
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