Oil for rebuilt Kohler K301

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When I rebuilt this motor, I used genuine Kohler parts, the piston and rod have Kohler part numbers but are forged instead of cast. The cast piston to bore clearance is .007", and the forged is .0045". I also had the crank turned and the rod machined to accept Clevite 77 bearings, instead of no bearings inserts with the original rod, crank to rod clearance is roughly .002". The honing job was very good, prob more cross hatch than original so perhaps that could affect viscosity used?

Here's a few pics:











The cam checked out and have questions about what oil for the flat tappets, any brand with higher zinc? With this in mind, would my oil requirements change with the tighter clearances and rod bearings used?

I have less than 100 hours on the rebuild, and now that I have been thinking about it...likely in the neighborhood of 50 to 60 hours.

I have used Rotella T 30W for the majority of the time, 10W-30 Rotella briefly during the last snow storm of 2016. I have been changing the oil at about the 15 to 20 hour mark, I did change it after the first 2 hours when it was freshly rebuilt.

With the 30W Rotella, it doesn't use a drop, at least it stays right on the full mark, with the T6 Rotella 5W-40 it seemed to be down just slightly from the full mark at the 20 hr mark so I went back to the 30W.

So I'm curious what oil you would recommend with the tighter clearance, and the addition of rod bearings. I would like to use a full synthetic if possible, seems Rotella 15W-40 gets high praise.

Would a 50W multi-grade be to thick?

So the oils in question, including what's been used, are Amsoil 30W small engine as well as their 10W-40, Redline 10W-40, Rotella 10W-30, 30W, or even the 15W-40.

I understand It's a topic that's been discussed with this engine series in particular, but this time the specs are different than what's in the manual.
 
These engines are tough to kill. Although it has a flat tappet camshaft that's not really a concern due to the low low low spring pressure and low operating speed of the engine. That being said I would personally run either Chevron Delo or Mobil Delvac because they both have a nice Boron dose with my personal preference being the Chevron. You could run it in either 15w30 SD 10w30 15w40 or 5w40 I would probably use the 15w30 myself. With your reasonable clearances and the engine being new I see no reason to run anything heavier than a 30 in this engine, the HDEO already brings a nice stout HTHS to the table.

With 50 hour OCI on a decent 10w30 HDEO and most importantly nice clean air filter this engine rebuild should outlive you.
 
I have been using 15w30 Delo too in my Kohler's- great oil at a great price!

Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
These engines are tough to kill. Although it has a flat tappet camshaft that's not really a concern due to the low low low spring pressure and low operating speed of the engine. That being said I would personally run either Chevron Delo or Mobil Delvac because they both have a nice Boron dose with my personal preference being the Chevron. You could run it in either 15w30 SD 10w30 15w40 or 5w40 I would probably use the 15w30 myself. With your reasonable clearances and the engine being new I see no reason to run anything heavier than a 30 in this engine, the HDEO already brings a nice stout HTHS to the table.

With 50 hour OCI on a decent 10w30 HDEO and most importantly nice clean air filter this engine rebuild should outlive you.
 
I like high mileage 10w30. Its what I use in my riding mower and push mower.
 
My own experience with OPE engines is 0w40 works well in all of the 4 cycle gas engines, I use it in literally everything and never had any issues with wear or oil use.
M1 0w40 has 1100 ppm zinc which seems to help keep wear in check nicely, the valves after initial break in adjustment have maintained clearance. This alone proves there is no measurable wear occurring at the cam lobes and valve train and being OHv engines with the cam in block I would bet bottom end wear is similar.

The 0w provides easy starting and the 40 good lubrication at higher temps, win/win.

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I have a K301 and a K341, on a couple old JD garden tractors, I have been running Amsoil SAE30/10w30 in them.
I previously ran 15w40 in them and it worked fine, but they do get used in the winter, so I feel better using the synthetic.

With the tighter clearances, probably no need for a 40 grade, so I'd run the Amsoil or a 10w30 HDEO
 
They originally spec'ed SAE 30 and since it apparently used no oil on it, I'd continue knowing she is fresh and well within spec.

I'm curious though- I'm surprised to see the cast piston clearances were so loose and the forged piston clearances are actually tighter? Everything I've seen has been the opposite, as forged will expand more.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
I'm curious though- I'm surprised to see the cast piston clearances were so loose and the forged piston clearances are actually tighter? Everything I've seen has been the opposite, as forged will expand more.


There's an "old style" and a "new style" piston. The new style is made by Mahle and requires a new rod, the old style piston can reuse the old rod.

I'm pretty sure the old style is a cast, but I too was surprised at the .0045"-.0060" tolerance but these piston don't expand as much as some forgings I suppose.

I had mine set to about .0048 and all has been good. These flatheads generally have the piston wearing the bore into an oval and perhaps with the tighter clearance the piston will wear better over time not being canted as much as it wears.
 
I rebuilt (2) K241 10 HP (for Case 220 garden tractors) last year.New pistons,valves,governors.Both have K301 blocks.Easy to work on.I did lap the heads with wet or dry as both were warped.Cranks were both a little over .002 and round.Both run very well.Funny how these engines seem to knock until the timing is set correctly.
 
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