Oil for Predator 459cc engine; OE recommendations

[cavemansaws]

First and foremost Im new here my name is Cody but I also go by caveman.(Primarily by customers) I hope y'all are well!
Question: I have noticed that they recommend 5w30 for winter and 10w30 for the summer. Most recently read this was on a predator 459 I ported. I understand 5w being thinner at cold start is good for cold temps, that part makes sense to me. But why have 10w in the summer when it's hot? Running at operating temp both are still rated as 30. Isn't that kind of pointless? Shouldn't it be 5w30 for winter and 10w40 or 5w40 for the summer?

 

[dubber09]

Thicker oil, higher oil pressure?

 

[charbaby]

WELCOME!

 

[SOUNDMAN5000]

I googled the instructions for that Predator 459 and it suggest 10W-30 above 32° F and 5W-30 at 32° F or below.

If you can follow the video bellow more power to you as its way over my head but I'm a simple man but understand as the title suggest The "W" does not stand for Weight!

All my small engines ( lawn mowers) call for a 10w30 or a SAE 40, I use a straight 30 as I don't use my mowers in winter, only Summer and 30 wight oil IMO has always been the "norm" for small lawn style engines so my thinking is perhaps a 40 weight may be too thick for that engine or simply not the oil the engine design Engineers decide to suggest for that engine. Those Engineers know lots more than me.

I never overthink my oil weights being a simple man as I use whats in the book or printed on the oil cap in my car. Thats all I got...

 

[cavemansaws]

I googled the instructions for that Predator 459 and it suggest 10W-30 above 32° F and 5W-30 at 32° F or below.

If you can follow the video bellow more power to you as its way over my head but I'm a simple man but understand as the title suggest The "W" does not stand for Weight!

All my small engines ( lawn mowers) call for a 10w30 or a SAE 40, I use a straight 30 as I don't use my mowers in winter, only Summer and 30 wight oil IMO has always been the "norm" for small lawn style engines so my thinking is perhaps a 40 weight may be too thick for that engine or simply not the oil the engine design Engineers decide to suggest for that engine. Those Engineers know lots more than me.

I never overthink my oil weights being a simple man as I use whats in the book or printed on the oil cap in my car. Thats all I got...

Yes the w stands for w. 5w means it flows as a 5 weight in the cold. Which would allow for easier starting vs 10w . But both oils act as a 30 weight (not Winter lol) when the engine is up to operating temp. If the oil acts like a 30 weight in both winter conditions and summer why change it? The numbers before the w become non existent when the engine is fully warmed up. Also I typically do the same typically grab amsoil small engine oil for my 4 stroke OPE and dominator for my saws. (I pay $5 a quart both types) If it's unavailable liuqi moly is my generational family brand. Why I step away from family tradition? Because caw caw motha ****a, Mericaw!!! Sorry that was dumb I know!! Lol But I've recently gotten into building 2 step fleet pressure washers and the owners tend to run them all year. I'm not stressing about it for my own equipment or their's. I'm just after the knowledge as to why change it in the summer lol

 

[Wireman1987]

First and foremost Im new here my name is Cody but I also go by caveman.(Primarily by customers) I hope y'all are well!
Question: I have noticed that they recommend 5w30 for winter and 10w30 for the summer. Most recently read this was on a predator 459 I ported. I understand 5w being thinner at cold start is good for cold temps, that part makes sense to me. But why have 10w in the summer when it's hot? Running at operating temp both are still rated as 30. Isn't that kind of pointless? Shouldn't it be 5w30 for winter and 10w40 or 5w40 for the summer?

welcome,
why not 40Wt? cause the manufacturer doesn't recommend it. for many years OPE used 30Wt above 32* and 10W30 below.. in the recent years 5W30 full synthetics have been suggested/recommended for year round use. to answer your question depending on your location and temperatures you plan to operate this engine i would suggest a full synthetic especially if the engine is modified (ported) could run hotter than normal.

never modified a OPE engine does porting also involve advancing the timing or adjusting the valve lash?

 

[Cujet]

I've written about this many times. Here in FL, when air cooled generators are used extensively, such as after a hurricane, the high temps and high engine loads often require more robust oil. Anybody who measures oil temps on air cooled engines will notice wild swings based on temp and load. Running a 10HP generator to power a 4500W water heater is a great example of pushing the limits. This is where the 5W-30 failed many owners with inadequate viscosity when oil temps exceed 265ºF. Tons of broken connecting rods.

The bottom line is that for air cooled engines pushed into high oil temp operation, an HTHS of 3.8 and up is where one needs to be.

 

[ka9mnx]

SuperTech 10w-40 blend for me. HTHS >4.0 in everything and works well.

 

[CleanSump]

There's no general rule anymore. One needs to read the owner's manual or maintenance manual chart. Kohler and Briggs both have charts showing from 5W-30 through 15W-50 for the same OPEs. In the 1970s I had a Sears riding mower with an 8hp Tecumseh engine that stated to never use a 5W-X or any 40 weight oil in it. Only 30HD or 10W-30. I had a push mower with Briggs in the '90s that said never use synthetic or 5W-x in it.
Today, I just use whatever is left over from my cars.

 

[danielmid]

My 2 snowblowers, Honda and Tecumseh engines, and 1 Predator 2000w generator all live on Amsoil Small Engine 5w-30, but they make different weights also.
https://www.amsoil.com/c/4-stroke-power-equipment/12/

Also, you haven't mentioned if you live somewhere where below 32 is a factor or not.

 

[crashz]

Many years ago the multi grade oils would shear quickly and easily when the spread of the grades were more. So a 10w-30 would not shear down as much as a 5w-30. Especially important in the heat of the summer and air cooled. Todays synthetic are much more stable.

 

[Plumb Bob]

Yes the w stands for w. 5w means it flows as a 5 weight in the cold. Which would allow for easier starting vs 10w . But both oils act as a 30 weight (not Winter lol) when the engine is up to operating temp. If the oil acts like a 30 weight in both winter conditions and summer why change it? The numbers before the w become non existent when the engine is fully warmed up. Also I typically do the same typically grab amsoil small engine oil for my 4 stroke OPE and dominator for my saws. (I pay $5 a quart both types) If it's unavailable liuqi moly is my generational family brand. Why I step away from family tradition? Because caw caw motha ****a, Mericaw!!! Sorry that was dumb I know!! Lol But I've recently gotten into building 2 step fleet pressure washers and the owners tend to run them all year. I'm not stressing about it for my own equipment or their's. I'm just after the knowledge as to why change it in the summer lol

Both oils ARE a 30-grade oil. One can be pumped and cranked at colder temperatures than the other can.

 

[6.7 CTD]

I’d run a 5w40 in it year round.

 

[CleanSump]

The manuals for the Briggs and Kohler engines I've owned all stated that 5W-30 was likely to use more oil than 10W-30 or straight 30. Now they say use anything from 5W-30 up to 15W-50. Why not 20W-x? I do not know. Probably cold cranking with a pull rope.

 

[Cujet]

There's no general rule anymore.

And yet we have air cooled engines with no form of oil temperature management. Just like 50 years ago. One look at the local repair center highlights just how many engine failures there are (plenty).

The purchase of Honda's higher end engines helps assure quality.

I've posted the picture here of my Kawasaki powered lawn mower with insane oil temps. The use of crummy 5W-30 is a sure-fire way to kill a hard working FL based air cooled engine.

BTW, this engine died from bent crankshaft disease... (I hit the same stump multiple times... ) And the engine did not survive the third time.

 

[Japanese]

I've posted the picture here of my Kawasaki powered lawn mower with insane oil temps. The use of crummy 5W-30 is a sure-fire way to kill a hard working FL based air cooled engine.

What oil is that?
Is it Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40?

 

[SC Maintenance]

If your chart looks like this - and most all Chonda engines manuals I have seen do - best I can tell its simply a copy of a chart from a fairly old Honda manual.

Why Honda felt that you needed SAE30 vs 10W-30 above freezing is beyond me. Maybe back in the day there was enough VII in the 10W to matter at high temps ??

I doubt it matters a whole lot either way.

 

[SOUNDMAN5000]

I guess I'm OLD, stuck in my ways but when you learn something works why change?
I inherited my Dads old 78 to 80 ish Ariens Tecumseh powered push mower, Old school non OHV, Was never grass too tall to cut, lots of power!

For 20 -25+ years of use Dad then I ONLY used straight 30 wight Conventional oil. Mower was used in Carolina Heat perhaps one fall cut but no to little winter use.

Never used a drop of oil. never smoked and I noticed my newer lawn mower I replaced it with, a Lowes Home Center grade mower with a Honda engine ( Consumer version Honda engine, not pro ) that called for 10W-30, The mower does now use some oil and I noticed some puffs of blue smoke just recently and has never been a good mower and its time to replace it.

I gave that Ariens away when I moved as packing space was tight, BIG mistake but conventional SAE 30 oil DID NOT let me down in 20 = 25 plus+ years of hot Summer use.

when it comes to me and my small engines I find a good straight 30 mineral based oil simply changed more often than not has proven itself to me...

 

[burbguy82]

Mobil 1 0w40

 

[LenMac]

First and foremost Im new here my name is Cody but I also go by caveman.(Primarily by customers) I hope y'all are well!
Question: I have noticed that they recommend 5w30 for winter and 10w30 for the summer. Most recently read this was on a predator 459 I ported. I understand 5w being thinner at cold start is good for cold temps, that part makes sense to me. But why have 10w in the summer when it's hot? Running at operating temp both are still rated as 30. Isn't that kind of pointless? Shouldn't it be 5w30 for winter and 10w40 or 5w40 for the summer?

I agree you are absolutely correct on the 30 weight being the same.Absolutely on the xW-40. I use 5w-Euro in pressure washer. I have measure oil temp at 267 degrees F in a pressure washer. Generator would probably do the same. My rule of thumb is lower on xW and higher on hot running number ie 30-40 is ok. Never the opposite. Always top brand synthetic. Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil 1, or preferred Amsoil small engine oil.
Problem is finding combination in auto

I guess I'm OLD, stuck in my ways but when you learn something works why change?
I inherited my Dads old 78 to 80 ish Ariens Tecumseh powered push mower, Old school non OHV, Was never grass too tall to cut, lots of power!

For 20 -25+ years of use Dad then I ONLY used straight 30 wight Conventional oil. Mower was used in Carolina Heat perhaps one fall cut but no to little winter use.

Never used a drop of oil. never smoked and I noticed my newer lawn mower I replaced it with, a Lowes Home Center grade mower with a Honda engine ( Consumer version Honda engine, not pro ) that called for 10W-30, The mower does now use some oil and I noticed some puffs of blue smoke just recently and has never been a good mower and its time to replace it.

I gave that Ariens away when I moved as packing space was tight, BIG mistake but conventional SAE 30 oil DID NOT let me down in 20 = 25 plus+ years of hot Summer use.

when it comes to me and my small engines I find a good straight 30 mineral based oil simply changed more often than not has proven itself to me...