I'm still debating whether to run full synth with our car, OCI is every 16,000km / 10,000miles, but the oil capacity is 8 litres, which makes the TBN less critical.
Oil for older JAG
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If car has low miles, then making the switch to synthetic will be well worth it if you are willing to pay extra. I read that synthetics will offer better startup protection than mineral oils and are more suitable for extended drains.
My car has 92k on it, so i'm going to *have* to go with the synthetic blend 15w40 most likely. Btw im flushing the transmission and I'm going to do a pan drain and refill a couple times with regular dextron III, and then i'm going to top off 3.5 quarts with synthetic so i'll brew my own synthetic blend atf fluid. I hope this will be okay..
Good point. My experience stops just before the XJ40.
Jelly, unfortunately I do not know anything about HDEO's so you will have to touche with another member on that point.
The 10W40 Castrol GTX HM has a lower cold viscosity than a 15W40 which I prefer since as you know, most engine wear occurs at startup. A cold engine is like a starved dog, craving for any and all assistance, i.e. every micro second counts after the oil has settled in all the wrong places. Additionally, I have read that the HM oils are a bit thicker than the absolute numbers suggest. The HM formula is also advertised as cleaner burning, keeping the throttle body cleaner on the AJ16 (which has a tendency to accumulate deposits due to the design of the EGR system) and reduces the possibility of fouled oxygen sensors and catalytic converters (the AJ16 had four cats and 4 o2 sensors which can be a tad sensitive).
Could you please let me in on your reasoning as to why? [/QB][/QUOTE]
I profess not to be an oil expert but I do claim to be an Oil Monkey!
The 10W40 Castrol GTX HM has a lower cold viscosity than a 15W40 which I prefer since as you know, most engine wear occurs at startup. A cold engine is like a starved dog, craving for any and all assistance, i.e. every micro second counts after the oil has settled in all the wrong places. Additionally, I have read that the HM oils are a bit thicker than the absolute numbers suggest. The HM formula is also advertised as cleaner burning, keeping the throttle body cleaner on the AJ16 (which has a tendency to accumulate deposits due to the design of the EGR system) and reduces the possibility of fouled oxygen sensors and catalytic converters (the AJ16 had four cats and 4 o2 sensors which can be a tad sensitive).
Could you please let me in on your reasoning as to why? [/QB][/QUOTE]
I profess not to be an oil expert but I do claim to be an Oil Monkey!
I asked because you were making such a strong recommendation that a high-mileage 10w-40 would be the way to go in this engine, so I just wanted some information as to why you think this...
"Jelly, unfortunately I do not know anything about HDEO's so you will have to touch with another member on that point."
So how can you say that a HM 10w-40 is the best choice when you don't even know of the alternative choices?
"The 10W40 Castrol GTX HM has a lower cold viscosity than a 15W40 which I prefer since as you know, most engine wear occurs at startup. A cold engine is like a starved dog, craving for any and all assistance, i.e. every micro second counts after the oil has settled in all the wrong places."
Lower cold viscosity? Where are you getting these specs. from? A few modern 15w40 HDEO's, such as Delo and Delvac, are actually 10w-40's...they have acheived 10w pumping status, but will continue to be called 15w40's because they are know as the "diesel" oils.
Sure, having a light-viscosity oil on startup is beneficial, BUT, on startup, little if no fluid film is present, and it takes a good deal of time before a full hydrodynamic film is established, thus the engine will rely upon the oils barrier additive package to provide the protection it needs in these conditions. Take an oil like Delvacd 1300...with the HDEO additive package and addition of molybdenum to the additive, you'll simply have a great deal of protection on startup, even if you were operating in cold ambient temperature conditions.
"Additionally, I have read that the HM oils are a bit thicker than the absolute numbers suggest. The HM formula is also advertised as cleaner burning, keeping the throttle body cleaner on the AJ16 (which has a tendency to accumulate deposits due to the design of the EGR system) and reduces the possibility of fouled oxygen sensors and catalytic converters (the AJ16 had four cats and 4 o2 sensors which can be a tad sensitive)."
Cleaner burning than what? I'd have to see some evidence to back this up. I'll take the oil that burns the LEAST amount.
"I profess not to be an oil expert but I do claim to be an Oil Monkey!"
Not really trying to jump on you here Monkey...but this is kinda what I've been talking about lately...people come here, with good intentions and all, but give recommendations to people, but when questioned, have no supporting argument to back up their suggestion.
I can't understand at all how a 10w-40 HM oil will outperform a HDEO 15w40 in this application in terms of performance/protection.
If you do, please let me know...
BTW, new members here are always great...don't be turned off by my comments and leave the site. I just want you guys to learn about oil and become more knowledgeable in the subject.
[ February 20, 2004, 12:41 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
"Jelly, unfortunately I do not know anything about HDEO's so you will have to touch with another member on that point."
So how can you say that a HM 10w-40 is the best choice when you don't even know of the alternative choices?
"The 10W40 Castrol GTX HM has a lower cold viscosity than a 15W40 which I prefer since as you know, most engine wear occurs at startup. A cold engine is like a starved dog, craving for any and all assistance, i.e. every micro second counts after the oil has settled in all the wrong places."
Lower cold viscosity? Where are you getting these specs. from? A few modern 15w40 HDEO's, such as Delo and Delvac, are actually 10w-40's...they have acheived 10w pumping status, but will continue to be called 15w40's because they are know as the "diesel" oils.
Sure, having a light-viscosity oil on startup is beneficial, BUT, on startup, little if no fluid film is present, and it takes a good deal of time before a full hydrodynamic film is established, thus the engine will rely upon the oils barrier additive package to provide the protection it needs in these conditions. Take an oil like Delvacd 1300...with the HDEO additive package and addition of molybdenum to the additive, you'll simply have a great deal of protection on startup, even if you were operating in cold ambient temperature conditions.
"Additionally, I have read that the HM oils are a bit thicker than the absolute numbers suggest. The HM formula is also advertised as cleaner burning, keeping the throttle body cleaner on the AJ16 (which has a tendency to accumulate deposits due to the design of the EGR system) and reduces the possibility of fouled oxygen sensors and catalytic converters (the AJ16 had four cats and 4 o2 sensors which can be a tad sensitive)."
Cleaner burning than what? I'd have to see some evidence to back this up. I'll take the oil that burns the LEAST amount.
"I profess not to be an oil expert but I do claim to be an Oil Monkey!"
Not really trying to jump on you here Monkey...but this is kinda what I've been talking about lately...people come here, with good intentions and all, but give recommendations to people, but when questioned, have no supporting argument to back up their suggestion.
I can't understand at all how a 10w-40 HM oil will outperform a HDEO 15w40 in this application in terms of performance/protection.
If you do, please let me know...
BTW, new members here are always great...don't be turned off by my comments and leave the site. I just want you guys to learn about oil and become more knowledgeable in the subject.
[ February 20, 2004, 12:41 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
Thanks, too bad I put in the 10W-40 in here already
Anything from 10/30 to 20/50 will work fine.
FWIW, I have Rotella Syn 5w40 in my wife's Vanden Plas (hardly ever driven so this is a year round oil); Mystik SX-8 10/30 in my driver Xj6 (225,000 miles); and a 60/40 mix of Mobil 1 10/30 and 15/50 in my Xj12.
I like the Rotella 5w40 a lot.
The Jaguar engines are robust long lived designs and will last forever with regular oil chnages. Don't sweat it.
FWIW, I have Rotella Syn 5w40 in my wife's Vanden Plas (hardly ever driven so this is a year round oil); Mystik SX-8 10/30 in my driver Xj6 (225,000 miles); and a 60/40 mix of Mobil 1 10/30 and 15/50 in my Xj12.
I like the Rotella 5w40 a lot.
The Jaguar engines are robust long lived designs and will last forever with regular oil chnages. Don't sweat it.
Ok cool, thanks for reassuring me. I will run this 10W-40 MaxLife to 2,000 miles and then switch to Delvac 1300 15w40 ($6.99/gal) or a synthetic blend 15w40 like Amsoil.
Hey guys, I just came across Auto RX, it says with cars under 100,000 miles they can condition the seals and prepare it for synthetic oil. Anyone tried this?
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