Oil for my 03 Corolla with 65k miles

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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Nice graph but the fact remain that even south central Florida average highs for July don't exceed 95F (90 on the coast) and we saw temp's approaching 100F that this past July in Ontario. Out in the southern prairies they routinely see summer highs over 100F.


Talk about adding obfuscation to a thread that you are telling others that they are making confusing...

For the statistically challenged reading this thread, it is important to note that AVERAGE Highs are NOT peak highs...

Note, Florida had a peak high of 112F on June 29, 1931, a time when engine oils had a viscosity index of approximately 100...and has no relevence here.
 
I'd use 5w30 PP, or PU if you want to spend a little more, or PYB if you want to spend less, or MS5K if you don't want Pennzoil, or Kendall GT-1 if you don't want Pennzoil or MS5K, or......
 
Originally Posted By: Daboa
My user manual recommends SAE 5w30. However, I have seen posts saying that the 1ZZ-FE has been "backspec'd" to 5W-20. I can't find any solid information on that claim or how important it is. Do I want 20 or 30??
.
.
.
In the end, I'm looking at these oils
0W-20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy
0W-30 MObil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy
5W-20 Pennzoil Platinum
5w30 Pennzoil Platinum


Don't know the price point of AFE 0w30 versus regular M1 5w30, but if it's more than 2% of your fuel bill for the OCI, stick to the regular...if less, AFE is worth it...
 
This thread is rather hilarious and OP is probably more confused now than before making this thread. And talk about over thinking and over analyzing the issue. This is a 10 year old car that will run on the cheapest 5w30 dino day in and day out until the cows come home and then some.
On top of that OP is in Florida, but yet cold start performance is brought up and all other nonsense that will not make the slightest difference in the grand scheme of things.
No wonder the site is full of troll posts and replies that are meant to pad the post counts and generate traffic, rather than be useful and be applicable for real word situations.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
This is a 10 year old car that will run on the cheapest 5w30 dino day in and day out until the cows come home and then some.


Not so, considering oil hole problems in this engine in this year.
Many here are not familiar with the specific hardware, make incorrect assumptions, and are quick to provide recommendations.
 
Yeah, the 1ZZ-FE is yet another engine that benefits from a top quality synthetic, like the 1MZ-FE - but for different reasons.

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
This is a 10 year old car that will run on the cheapest 5w30 dino day in and day out until the cows come home and then some.


Not so, considering oil hole problems in this engine in this year.
Many here are not familiar with the specific hardware, make incorrect assumptions, and are quick to provide recommendations.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
This is a 10 year old car that will run on the cheapest 5w30 dino day in and day out until the cows come home and then some.


Not so, considering oil hole problems in this engine in this year.
Many here are not familiar with the specific hardware, make incorrect assumptions, and are quick to provide recommendations.


Good point. Real world information/experience trumps theory. It's pretty clear some members like you and Shannow are trying to give the OP good advise and mainly one poster keeps pushing an odd agenda...why? I'ts hard to tell, but it's staring to get weird.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
This is a 10 year old car that will run on the cheapest 5w30 dino day in and day out until the cows come home and then some.


Not so, considering oil hole problems in this engine in this year.
Many here are not familiar with the specific hardware, make incorrect assumptions, and are quick to provide recommendations.


Yeah, I don't have firsthand experience with this car, that's for sure. Synthetic in that engine would not hurt one bit, but going on and on about the virtues of high viscosity indexes, cold start flows and other stuff, making it look like nothing but 0wXX oil should ever be used is getting kind of old and is largely irrelevant in this case.

Another thing I will ask is: did Toyota ever issue a TSB or a recall about this particular problem with Corolla?

I don’t recall hearing about it,that is why I think the problem is largely amplified by the internet while most other people simply go about their business without any issues using whatever bulk oil their jiffy lube uses.
 
The only one I have ever seen is the one about a new dipstick that increases the oil level.

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Another thing I will ask is: did Toyota ever issue a TSB or a recall about this particular problem with Corolla?
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ

Another thing I will ask is: did Toyota ever issue a TSB or a recall about this particular problem with Corolla?


No, they never admitted any wrongdoing in USA, probably due to liability. There is an European Toyota document well describing the issue. Unfortunately, it was taken down. I did save a copy when it was available. I can post it if I can find a way to upload.

The short story was the 1ZZ-FE pistons were hotter in use than designed (over 150C) and that created oil coking on pistons and plugging the piston oil holes. The revised pistons have increased numbers of oil holes.

I have 2003 Corolla that is effected and started oil consumption at ~70,000 miles after conventional oil change every 4,000-5,000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Daboa


In the end, I'm looking at these oils
0W-20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy
0W-30 MObil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy
5W-20 Pennzoil Platinum
5w30 Pennzoil Platinum

Any comments on these oils?


5w30 Pennzoil Platinum...done
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: Astro14

But I would stick with a synthetic...this engine, during that year, had some issues with sticking rings due to insufficient oil drain holes in the ring lands....the synthetic should be more resistant to coking in those drain holes.

Despite the back spec to 0w20, I still use a 5w30 synthetic in the 2006 Corolla, the engine is in great shape with 130,000 miles on it now. Here are some pics under the valve cover a couple years back: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2633310/


+1
This is the only correct advice from all of the above, LOL!

With irrational advise like that basically second guessing Toyota, no wonder the new member is disenchanted with the BITOG.


LOL, particularly when read in context with the following...

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The answer is that the more efficient lubricant is the new TGMO 0W-20, that is why it has been back-spec'd over 10 model years.
That means theoretically less wear, better mileage and power.
That said using a less expensive 5W-20 or 5w30 dino you may not notice the oil is less efficient.


You seem to be putting some words into Toyota's mouth...

I could assert that the reason for backspeccing is because they don't want to confuse the techs by having different viscosities for different year models, as it further improves the chances of the cars being run on what they were CAFE certified to.

If you took the time to actually read the TGMO Oil Recommendation chart your assertion that back spec'ing to 0W-20 is to avoid confusion makes no sense since all three grades, 5w30 , 5W-20 and 0W-20 are shown as options for the 2003 MY.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Nice graph but the fact remain that even south central Florida average highs for July don't exceed 95F (90 on the coast) and we saw temp's approaching 100F that this past July in Ontario. Out in the southern prairies they routinely see summer highs over 100F.


Talk about adding obfuscation to a thread that you are telling others that they are making confusing...

For the statistically challenged reading this thread, it is important to note that AVERAGE Highs are NOT peak highs...

Note, Florida had a peak high of 112F on June 29, 1931, a time when engine oils had a viscosity index of approximately 100...and has no relevence here.

Your point is pedantic at best.
I'm simply pointing out that it gets plenty hot in the summers in
Canada, besides high ambient temp's is not a Toyota factor in choosing an oil grade. The follow is what Toyota actual says about engine oil selection for when the 0W-20 grade is specified:

"-Engine oil selection
“Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” is used in your Toyota vehicle. Use Toyota approved “Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent to satisfy the following grade and viscosity.
Oil grade: ILSAC GF-5 multigrade engine oil
Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-20
SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.
If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced
with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.
Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):
• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows
cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier
starting of the engine in cold weather.
• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when
the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a
higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high
speeds, or under extreme load conditions."

Taking into consideration how the OP operates his car,
"I'm a cautious and leisurely driver" , the TGMO 0W-20 would an optimum oil choice.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek


I have 2003 Corolla that is effected and started oil consumption at ~70,000 miles after conventional oil change every 4,000-5,000 miles.


Do you think you'd have had those same issues with an SN-rated conventional oil changed at the same interval? I'd think that a modern conventional oil would offer suitable deposit control (and certainly better than was available 10 years ago). That said, synthetic oils are available for cheap, so it probably seems worth it for this application.

What oil are you using now in your Corolla?
 
Why wouldn't you?

Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek


I have 2003 Corolla that is effected and started oil consumption at ~70,000 miles after conventional oil change every 4,000-5,000 miles.


Do you think you'd have had those same issues with an SN-rated conventional oil changed at the same interval? I'd think that a modern conventional oil would offer suitable deposit control (and certainly better than was available 10 years ago). That said, synthetic oils are available for cheap, so it probably seems worth it for this application.
 
Originally Posted By: JOD


Do you think you'd have had those same issues with an SN-rated conventional oil changed at the same interval? I'd think that a modern conventional oil would offer suitable deposit control (and certainly better than was available 10 years ago). That said, synthetic oils are available for cheap, so it probably seems worth it for this application.

What oil are you using now in your Corolla?


SN oils? They're supposed to be better for piston deposits, but who knows?

The car is almost done with Maxlife synthetic OCI, next OCI is Castrol Edge, and then I have some G-Oil lined up. So, yes I use synthetics only from now on.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Note, Florida had a peak high of 112F on June 29, 1931, a time when engine oils had a viscosity index of approximately 100...and has no relevence here.

This province hit 113F about five years later, but with our swings, they were certainly wishing they had high VI oils the following January.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Here is the Canadian Toyota Oil recommendation chart:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2638784/


That is great for Canada, but has no bearing on the discussion.

The OP is from Florida and not Canada.

It's the same chart for Toyota USA.


Here is proof that the above chart doesn't apply in USA.
Compare to the official Toyota USA publication. Especially RAV4 (all years) and other cars with 2GR-FE engine (2010): 5W30 only.

http://rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0005-10.pdf
 
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