Oil for high horsepower Mitsu Evolution

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I have been doing alot of searching but still not really sure what to use. The car is a 2006 mistu evolution with a Gt35r turbo kit, built 2.0 and all other supporting mods. The car makes just under 500whp on pump 93 octane gas and just over 600whp on c16. The car rev's to 9k when being raced. The motor sees high boost pressures also, about 25psi on pump and 35 on c16. The car has about 12k on it and about 4k on the built motor. The car came brand new from the dealer with mobile one, i have also used royal purple and amsoil. I usually run 5w-40 oil in the car. Now all you oil guru's out there what do you suggest i use? i change the oil in the car every 1k and use k&n oil filters. What brand oils do you suggest i use? Should i stay with syn oil or go with a dino oil? please let me know what you guys think, thanks.
 
I think amsoil should do you justice.

Also: IMHO changing oil every 1k is a total waste of $$ (would you mind shipping your used amsoil to me so that I can dispose of in my wifey's Camry?)

My 2c's worth.

Q.
 
Wow you really belong here with a motor like that..!!! What took you so long to post... Let the Fun begin.

Here's my thoughts...

I was gonna say 5w40 but you are already running it.
And the fact that you change at 1k intervals... most any good 5w40 can handle that. Here's the spiff do an oil analysis. Check out the UOA posts on this site. Most labs will send you the kit for free. I think you need to contact Dyson Analysis and let him see your used oil. After you have seen a UOA you will know if the current oil you are using passes mustard.

For now I think you should continue with a synthetic 5w40.

I personally love Evo's and WRX's I can't wait to see a built Evo analysis.
 
I would definitely run some viscosity of Redline such as 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, or, 10W-40. I would base my choice of viscosity on typical oil temp. I'm thinking the 5W-30 for winter and the 10W-40 in the summer.
 
I'm thinking 5W-40 synthetic is a good oil for this engine.

Valvoline would be my brand of choice, but there's a lot of good 5W-40's out there. Oh yeah, you could probably go a little longer than 1K.
wink.gif
 
i reason i change the oil every 1k is just cause i dont want to take any chances with it, yes im sure i could go longer. How does everyone feel about Royal Purple oil?
 
What are your bearing clearances? What type of oil temperatures does the engine usually see, and do you have an oil cooler (thermostatic)?

If things aren't much out of line in terms of clearances compared w/stock (what do they recommend?), and you have a well temperature controlled and filtered oil system, then a gut feeling would be that a synthetic (to help reduce coking potential in turbo), 5w-40 would be a good starting point, followed by fine tuning with UOA's trending. I'm not expert though, just kind of a notes geek on various information. Though I have never worked w/Terry Dyson for oil analysis work, he does seem to be on a lot of peoples minds around here for expert help.

I also think that you do a cool down prior to shutting off after spirited runs, no?...allowing turbo spin-down and cooling, etc.

Take care...and enjoy!
 
Quote:


the mistu evo fq400 in europe had 400hp and runs 32psi of boost and want you to change the oil every 2500miles




Known of the FQ cars run 32psi. Even if they did theres a big difference between 32psi on the stock 16g and 32psi on a 35r.
 
Quote:


What are your bearing clearances? What type of oil temperatures does the engine usually see, and do you have an oil cooler (thermostatic)?

If things aren't much out of line in terms of clearances compared w/stock (what do they recommend?), and you have a well temperature controlled and filtered oil system, then a gut feeling would be that a synthetic (to help reduce coking potential in turbo), 5w-40 would be a good starting point, followed by fine tuning with UOA's trending. I'm not expert though, just kind of a notes geek on various information. Though I have never worked w/Terry Dyson for oil analysis work, he does seem to be on a lot of peoples minds around here for expert help.

I also think that you do a cool down prior to shutting off after spirited runs, no?...allowing turbo spin-down and cooling, etc.

Take care...and enjoy!




The car has a external oil cooler, bearing clearance are the same as factory. The turbo is oil and water cooled so theres really no reason to let the car cool off before shutting it off.
 
Quote:


the mistu evo fq400 in europe had 400hp and runs 32psi of boost and want you to change the oil every 2500miles




The fq400 has 400 crank hp, which is much less then my car makes on pump gas alone.
 
the fq400 had a special carbon fiber and titanium turbo made by mistu and only used the the fq cars. i was just suggesting a good starting point would be less then 2500miles seeing your making much more hp maybe uoa it after 1000 and see how your doing
 
Quote:


the fq400 had a special carbon fiber and titanium turbo made by mistu and only used the the fq cars. i was just suggesting a good starting point would be less then 2500miles seeing your making much more hp maybe uoa it after 1000 and see how your doing




The turbo that comes on the fq cars is made by garret, its a dual ball bearing turbo. There are no carbon fiber turbos.
 
My brother-in-law has run Amsoil 10w30 in his Evo for the last 3 years, in California no less. A few mods here and there, but the oil holds up great with 3,000 OCI. He works part time for "WORKS" that specializes in Evo stuff...big time. I Don't jack about them, but I know he loves the Amsoil products. Anywoo, here's a link to check out some time:

http://www.worksevo.com/
 
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